Flowmaster Super 44 / Electrical Exhaust Cutout - Complete

[CDJuda]

Hey everyone,

spent some time watching a couple videos, I like the way the Super 44 sounds.

Also curious about getting an electrical exhaust cutout / dump.

Our pipes are 2.75 in diameter, all I'm seeing for the majority of these exhaust products are 2.5" or 3.0" piping.

Any suggestions on what's going to work best for these?

Appreciate it!

Install Nearing Completion
details below

EDIT:
Note: I'll have a video with higher quality audio uploaded later, this is just something taken from my phone after I got off work.

Ordered & Received:
Kooks (6320) Long-tube Headers (no-cat)
Badlanzhpe electronic exhaust dump kit
Trush 17935 Super Turbo Muffler
In Progress:
PCM of NC tune
Planned / Scheduled:
PCM Install
Header Install
Exhaust Dump Install
Muffler Install
Installed / Completed:
PCM Install
Header Install
Muffler Install
Exhaust Dump Install

 

[BlazingTrails]

I'm going to tell you right off that the super 44 is VERY loud, I put one in my buddy's silverado and that thing is loud it does sound cool but it is like a drag car.

I personally like the 40 it has a nice sound but not too loud.

As far as the size if you go 2.5" you will not notice, if you are concerned about bottle necking the exhaust go 3". If it is being welded it will fit fine but if you are wanting to clamp stuff you will need adapters and a lot of clamps. Don't do that. .....

 

[CDJuda]

I'm going to tell you right off that the super 44 is VERY loud, I put one in my buddy's silverado and that thing is loud it does sound cool but it is like a drag car.

I personally like the 40 or has a nice sound but not too loud.

As far as the size of you go 2.5" you will not notice, if you are concerned about bottle necking the exhaust go 3". If it is being welded it will fit fine but if you are wanting to clamp stuff you will need adapters and a lot of clamps. Don't do that. .....

Okay perfect, yeah the loud exhaust would have totally defeated the purpose of the electrical cutout so I'll probably go with the 40.

I'll have my local mechanic do the welding probably. I'll report back here if there are any hickups / when everything is finished.

 

[CDJuda]

I'm going to tell you right off that the super 44 is VERY loud, I put one in my buddy's silverado and that thing is loud it does sound cool but it is like a drag car.

I personally like the 40 it has a nice sound but not too loud.

As far as the size if you go 2.5" you will not notice, if you are concerned about bottle necking the exhaust go 3". If it is being welded it will fit fine but if you are wanting to clamp stuff you will need adapters and a lot of clamps. Don't do that. .....

Just realized, if you use the configuration on their website, no options show up for the 2002 - 2005 trailblazers. If you filter to 2006 you get something from the 70 series but nothing shows for the 40 series.

Anyone know the model number people are using mainly?

 

[Pittdawg]

It is the 70 series but make sure and keep your stock resonator to cut down on the inevitable droning.

 

[SnowBlazer]

I got a 40 series put on at a shop a few days ago. It sounds great at 3k RPM and below and dies off above that. Here's a couple pics of what I got...

 

[07TrailyLS]

I just watched a video of the super 44 and super 40. I think the super 40 has a nicer tone. I also heard the basic 40 Series though. It would be a toss up between either of the 40s for sure. Any input? Droning really doesn't bother me. I had a 94 z28 with a 3" x pipe with very aggressive magnaflow mufflers ending right under where my ass sat.

 

[CDJuda]

Okay parts on order:

Thrush Hush Super Turbo 17931 Muffler.
Kooks longtube headers with cat.
& BadlanzHPE 2.75 inch electronic exhaust dump kit.

*glares depressingly into empty wallet*

 

[Pittdawg]

Nice your ride gonna sound mean!

 

[C-ya]

I had Thrush Boss Turbo mufflers on a SBC in my Isuzu Hombre (aka S-10). They rumbled nicely without being obnoxious, but had a nice mean sound when you stomped on it. I may have to check out the muffler you bought for my truck.

 

[CDJuda]

Finally got the headers, the muffler, and the exhaust cutout shipped in!
Getting the PCM tuned over the weekend.
And then I'll have the parts installed in about a week or 2.
Talk about an overhaul!

 

[stickypoop]

edit: delete

 

[CDJuda]

I'm starting the Header / Muffler install on Thursday morning bright and early, I'll have an HD video with a studio quality sound recording put up after completion on either Thursday evening or Friday morning.

 

[CDJuda]

So just a quick update for everyone or anyone still following this thread. I've spent the last couple of days getting everything put together, all the hardware is in (Header, Exhaust Dump, Race Cat, and Muffler.) I just need to get the wiring ran for the exhaust dump kit and I need to dremel out a hole next to the shifter for the valve open/close button.

One thing I noticed while getting all of this installed was that the piping going to my existing muffler was squeezed (This would be the piping going from the stock muffler to the resonator if I'm not mistaken; this section of piping was very restrictive, it more closely resembled a squished oval than it did a full circle.) So that was removed entirely and I shortened the entire exhaust assembly by probably 2 or 3 feet.

As far as how it sounds, I'm very VERY pleased!
So much more engine noise than exhaust noise, it still drones a little at low rpm but it still sounds completely different.

A question I had for anyone that can answer it: Where do I wire this power button to? I think the instructions specified that I need to wire the button to a fuse or a wire that's only hot when the ignition is actually turned on. The motor really only works when the valve is moving positions so I'm not sure if it would matter anyway.

Let me know what you guys think.

I'll have some pictures tomorrow, and a video with sound and all that once the exhaust dump wiring has been set up correctly.

-Chase

 

[Blckshdw]

There's an ignition fuse in the rear block, if you wanted to add an add-a-fuse there, and then run a wire to wherever you decide to mount the cutout switch. I don't imagine that motor would require much current, any chance the documentation tells you how much current it pulls? You'd wanna check the wiring diagram from Mooseman's manuals, but I think there are some ignition only wires in the radio stack for the HVAC.

As for location, there's the open spot to the left of the power receptacles in front of the cup holders, you could put it inside the center console (this is where I put my power folding mirror kill switch, and ran the wiring there from the rear fuse block) There's also one of the open sections above/below the fog light button in the headlight switch assembly. I've seen some people mount their cutout control boxes right below the front of the driver's seat.

If your truck didn't have stabilitrack, I would say get a stabilitrack shifter, and then wire up the switch there. Perfect stealth install You could also look at locations in the overhead console, but that would require running a lot of wiring.

 

[CDJuda]

There's an ignition fuse in the rear block, if you wanted to add an add-a-fuse there, and then run a wire to wherever you decide to mount the cutout switch. I don't imagine that motor would require much current, any chance the documentation tells you how much current it pulls? You'd wanna check the wiring diagram from Mooseman's manuals, but I think there are some ignition only wires in the radio stack for the HVAC.

As for location, there's the open spot to the left of the power receptacles in front of the cup holders, you could put it inside the center console (this is where I put my power folding mirror kill switch, and ran the wiring there from the rear fuse block) There's also one of the open sections above/below the fog light button in the headlight switch assembly. I've seen some people mount their cutout control boxes right below the front of the driver's seat.

If your truck didn't have stabilitrack, I would say get a stabilitrack shifter, and then wire up the switch there. Perfect stealth install You could also look at locations in the overhead console, but that would require running a lot of wiring.

When you say the "rear block" are you referring to fuse box underneath the rear seat? Outside of really basic wiring skills, I don't know a whole lot about getting these sort of things hooked up so I may need a more detailed explanation on how exactly I could get this thing to connect if it's not too much trouble.
From the sounds of things (Since it already has a fuse and only uses power when the motor moves) Is there really any benefit to wiring this to a fuse box? Rather than running the power wire (or extension) straight to the positive terminal on the battery?

In the installation manual it says "Locate the power wire (it has a fuse on it) coming from the switch harness. Strip back approximately 1" of wire and using a butt splice, attatch this to a switched 12-volt source. (i.e. only hot when the ignition is on. You can run it to a switched fuse in the fuse panel located on the drivers side dashboard. The cutout only draws power when the motor is moving."

I photo of the harness and button have been attached

Oh, also unrelated to getting the dump wired but equally important, it seems that the exhaust dump valve. If I'm not mistaken, is pointed pretty close to the gas tank... Uhhhh... Anyone know of any sort of heat-shielding material I could place around that side to prevent the blazer from exploding ? I mean there's probably a good 12 inches between the dump and the tank, but I've heard of certain builds spitting flames onto the ground and I would rather not gamble with something like this.

 

[Blckshdw]

OK, so it's already got a fuse on it, that's fine. Yes I was referring to the rear fuse block. I think you should first determine where you want to mount the switch, and then design your wiring setup based on that, not the other way around.

What kind of switch is it? A 2 position or 3 position switch? It's hard to tell from the pic. If it's only 2 positions, then I don't see a problem wiring it to constant power instead of ignition switched. If it's a 3 position switch where the middle is neutral, and either side is open/close, then that could be a problem if something got lodged against the switch and kept it drawing current.

As for the outflow from the valve, is there any way you can rotate the whole thing a few degrees counter clockwise? That way instead of pointed to the side, it's more pointed downward? I suppose you could make an aluminum heat shield.

 

[CDJuda]

OK, so it's already got a fuse on it, that's fine. Yes I was referring to the rear fuse block. I think you should first determine where you want to mount the switch, and then design your wiring setup based on that, not the other way around.

What kind of switch is it? A 2 position or 3 position switch? It's hard to tell from the pic. If it's only 2 positions, then I don't see a problem wiring it to constant power instead of ignition switched. If it's a 3 position switch where the middle is neutral, and either side is open/close, then that could be a problem if something got lodged against the switch and kept it drawing current.

As for the outflow from the valve, is there any way you can rotate the whole thing a few degrees counter clockwise? That way instead of pointed to the side, it's more pointed downward? I suppose you could make an aluminum heat shield.

I just bought some header wrap, some exhaust zip ties, and some black header paint. I think with the combination of the 3 I can mitigate any sort of risk with the fuel tank. The electric motor is kinda big so it's not really gonna be possible to shift this whole thing unless I lift the truck up again.

The button is going to be mounted next to the shifter, should work out nicely since the cable from the exhaust dump comes up through a grommet in the front diff right under the center console.

As for the switch assembly itself, it does appear to be stationary at center.

The button is a 3 position but it naturally reverts back to the neutral position if you aren't pressing on it, feels pretty sturdy.

 

[CDJuda]

I have the fuse tie-in for the switch attached to one of the HVAC fuses on the BCM, and works wonderfully. I haven't had a chance to get the HD video up, just a test from my phone so bear with me.