NEED HELP Flex plate cracked: do I need to pull transmission?

[HizAndHerz]

Surprisingly, the passenger side went fine for me. Not easy, but not bad. I removed the transmission dip stick tube and transmission heat shield, grabbed the harness plug with set of long hose pliers and plugged it in with the other hand.

I think that the driver's side harness is caught on something because I have to use a mirror on top of the transmission to even get a glimpse of it. I got a coat hanger around it but couldn't get it off the top of the tranny. I've now got the transfer case out and can tilt the transmission tomorrow to reroute the harness. This is kinda weird because I had laid out all the harnesses and hoses before I bolted in the transmission.

I do feel like this project is coming to an end... in a good way.

 

[HizAndHerz]

If anyone wants a free Saab, please just come haul it off

The latest is that I have the truck completely back together and all I had to do is fill the transfer case and the transmission. But... the transfer case fill plug is frozen and the head is stripped. Whoever serviced the transfer case last over-torqued both plugs. I broke off a torx bit trying to get the fill plug out. Then bought an impact torx bit, heated up the aluminum around the plug with a MAPP torch and gave it a try. The head of the plug stripped.

I know I need to drill out the plug, possibly use an extractor bit, but obviously metal shavings can't get into the case. I'm thinking the "right" way to do this is to remove the xfer-case, disassemble it and drill out the plug from the back cover. That's so much work.

First, I'll try to get the plug out with xfer-case installed. I'll try the chisel and hammer method, and if that doesn't do it I'll try a bolt extractor.

Any other suggestions? I know I'm needy

 

[Mooseman]

Weld a nut or bolt on it. The heat will also help in releasing its grip.

 

[HizAndHerz]

Weld a nut or bolt on it. The heat will also help in releasing its grip.

That might be my first choice but my welder is down. If my other options don't work, I'll got the welder out and try to get it going.

My truly wonderful wife who loves restoring old cars as much as I do made a mistake and stored the welder within a few feet of the clothes dryer vent in the garage. The wire rusted solid in a matter of days before I caught it. Maybe I should take a break from the Saab and clean up the welder. That would be moving in a forward direction.

Thanks Mooseman.

 

[seanpooh]

Before you continue to weld onto the drain and fill plugs, any one recall the material they are made of? Last time they were in my hands, they were very light which made me think they were aluminum just like the case.

 

[Mooseman]

I'm 90% sure they're steel. Aluminum would be way too soft and strip too easily. One of the reasons why they "weld" themselves to the aluminum case is because of the dissimilar metals.

 

[HizAndHerz]

Well, my welder was more work than I had time for. Today I tried one more time with a MAPP torch, a t55 bit and valve grinding paste to give the bit extra gription. I heated the case around the plugs as much as I dared. The heads of the plugs were not completely stripped and I was able to break both plugs loose. I'm calling the dealership first thing in the morning to see if they have new plugs.

I'm back to believing that I'll be driving my Saab this weekend

[Edit] The dealerships in Houston didn't have the plugs for the transfer case. I ended up finding oil drain plugs with the right threads at Advance Auto:
Needa Parts Oil Drain Plug Standard M22-1.50 with 3/8" drive head. These have a wide head that look a little goofy, but they seal just fine.

 

[HizAndHerz]

The good news is its back together and it moves. The bad news is that the transmission slips and the engine oil pressure is flaky.

I filled the transmission with 4 quarts of fluid, warmed up the engine, then filled it again until the fluid was at the bottom of the HOT hatch marks. I cycled through the gears but there was very little engagement. I filled it to the top of the hatch marks and was able to drive it around the block. Lots of slipping. After filling with a total of 6 quarts, it was back at the top of the hatch marks. Drove it about 5 miles and it would drive okay but then it would slip in and out of gears.

I've flushed and rebuilt transmissions several times but never had one that took this long to settle. Is this typical for a 4L60E? How long should it take to get the fluid circulating and for it to shift normally?

The next problem is the engine oil pressure. Sometimes the needle will bounce up to the straight-up position but will slowly descend into the red zone. The first time I started the engine it gave me the "Oil Pressure Low - Stop Engine" warnings which I followed. Then I was able to start her up again and the needle popped up to where it is supposed to but within a couple of minutes the flaky oil pressure readings came back. No excessive clatter was ever noticed. Last year, I replaced the lifters, VLOM and oil pressure sensor. I guess I'll do an engine flush and replace the pressure switch and hope I don't have a bad oil pump.

 

[Mooseman]

Could be the screen under the pressure sender. Check that as you're changing the sensor.

For the tranny, I don't know what to say. Did the torque converter come out at all? I'm hoping the oil pump was properly engaged. This is an excellent thread on the subject:
Removing Trans for main seal leak.

 

[HizAndHerz]

For the tranny, I don't know what to say. Did the torque converter come out at all? I'm hoping the oil pump was properly engaged. This is an excellent thread on the subject:
Removing Trans for main seal leak.

I strapped the torque converter in when I pulled to transmission. I'm pretty sure it didn't disengage - I paid close attention. I need to read to find out what the symptoms are when the torque converter isn't seated.

I just noticed that AutoZone sold me Castrol Dex/Merc instead in Dexron VI - I can't believe I didn't check it before I left the store and put it in. I was going to do a full flush once I got the truck going and I guess now I'll have. Running Dex/Merc for a few miles shouldn't cause the trouble I have, right?

 

[Mooseman]

I doubt it did anything. It's just a better formulation of the same thing. I needed Dex VI for my 06 and couldn't find any so put in 2 liters of Merc / Dex. Tranny basically the same as older models. GM just adopted a better fluid.

 

[HizAndHerz]

For my own peace of mind I wanted to wrap up this thread since the truck is moving down the road.

As Mooseman suggested above, the oil pressure issue was due to crusty junk clogging the oil pressure sensor screen. I was able to change the oil pressure switch in under 5 minutes with a 27mm deep socket, a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter and a 3/8" ratchet with a pipe on the end for leverage. I just rebuilt the top end of my engine last year and replaced the sensor and screen at that time so it is surprising to me that the screen is clogged. I'm going to make it a ritual to clean the oil screen with every oil change since it takes just a few minutes.

The problem with the transmission was that it was under-filled. In the end I had to put 9 quarts of fluid back into it after dropping the pan. I think that I managed to get a lot more fluid out of it in the process of working on the truck than if I had just dropped the pan with the transmission bolted in.

So, the Saab is back on the road, but the inspection sticker is 9 months overdue because the fuel sender is out which throws an engine code. That's tomorrow's project: drop the fuel tank and replace the fuel pump.

Another note: While this repair was a bit of a wild goose chase, in the end several good things happened: 1) the truck has a new starter, 2) the transmission and transfer case have been serviced, 3) the oxygen sensors were changed, 4) a good portion of everything under the truck has been cleaned and inspected, and 5) I have learned several new tricks for repairing a GMT360 and other GM trucks.

Thanks for all the help from MRMSR, Mooseman, Capote and everyone who helped me through this project I couldn't have got my truck back on the road without y'all.