First post: Chevy Trailblazer has trouble starting :(

MandaGibbs

Original poster
Member
Jun 30, 2014
8
Hey there! I found this site on a youtube video I watched on troubleshooting trailblazers. Thing is-I'm so sick of getting screwed and I'm realizing I'm not the only one. My car wont start on the first try. If I crank it once, turn it off and try again it starts no problem (well, sometimes it still takes a sec).

It's a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer... I think it's an LS but I couldnt find that info anywhere on the car so I'm not positive. Also not positive about the size of the engine. In the 5 years I've had this car, I've replaced the ignition switch, starter, alternator, battery, and serpentine belt twice, and still my car is struggling to start again. Most recently (as in last Wednesday) I had the thermostat, an engine coil, and the spark plugs replaced. When I got the car back is when it got really bad. Before that it would stutter sometimes but eventually start and twice I had to have it jumped (even though the battery is still fairly new) and then it worked great again. But now, it ALWAYS needs two cranks, unless I have recently driven it then it starts up the first time.

I live in Indiana and the only people I know who know anything about cars are my grandfather and uncle, both in alabama. Over the phone my uncle mentioned it may be the fuel line or not enough fuel pressure. Any other suggestions or thoughts on what to do?? I just don't want to keep paying. For the recent work I got screwed and charged 1100 dollars and I just don't have any more to spend right now and it would suck if it dies anyway. Please help.
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
Welcome to the Nation! Only help I can lend would be about the size of your motor. If you're looking at it with the hood open, is the word vortec on a black plastic box or is it on a rounded piece of black plastic? Both are directly on top of the engine and are very easy to spot.

If you have the black box, it's an I6 4.2 liter. If it has the rounded piece of plastic, it's a v8 5.3 liter. There were only two motor options in our vehicles.
 

RayGumm

Member
Apr 16, 2014
630
I would say start with cleaning your throttle body. The shop likely disconnected your battery during the thermo/coil/plug replacement and that reset the PCM to look for a sparkling clean brand new throttle body-and it is likely not clean at all. MAY03LT has a video on youtube showing the process and how to reset the PCM so it definitely jives with the condition of the newly cleaned throttle body. Search YouTube: "trailblazer throttle body clean" and watch the video by may03lt. The video and possible fix only applies to the 4.2L I6 motor.


Good luck!

Also please fill out your profile (vehicle info) entirely to help us help you get back on the road. :smile:
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
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Robbabob

Member
Dec 10, 2012
1,096
Welcome to the Nation!

you've done a lot of work, all toward a happy ending, but maybe not the necessary work to fix what's up.

Keep listening to what to fix along the way.
 
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KNBlazer

Member
Feb 8, 2012
811
My suggestions would be;

Throttle body cleaned...
Inspect Fuel pressure regulator...
Confirm the shop used AcDelco 41-103 plugs...

One other thing you can do is turn the key to on for 5-10 seconds without starting it, then crank, if it starts right away, you most likely have a fuel problem.... have you ever changed fuel filter? Is SES light on?
 
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MandaGibbs

Original poster
Member
Jun 30, 2014
8
Thank you for the responses. I still don't know the engine size, I just guessed. I will check on it tomorrow. Turning the key and holding it then cranking it does work. When they fixed the stuff on Wednesday the service engine light went out but of course today it came back on. Thats the only light on now and I'm pretty pissed about it. Sometimes I do have a strong gas smell so I'm sure that something with the fuel line needs fixed. I personally have never changed the filter, I dont know if any mechanic I have taken it to has or not. At this point I am afraid to take it back to have the mechanics do anything else but dont know what to do myself. Also I dont know what the throttle body is but I will look online to see if it looks easy enough to check and clean. Hearing some ideas makes me feel a lot better. What do I do about the fuel regulator if it is bad?
 

MandaGibbs

Original poster
Member
Jun 30, 2014
8
I think the engine is a 4.2 or smaller, because Im pretty sure its a V6 but like I said Ill check tomorrow
 

KNBlazer

Member
Feb 8, 2012
811
KNBlazer said:
My suggestions would be;

Throttle body cleaned...
Inspect Fuel pressure regulator...
Confirm the shop used AcDelco 41-103 plugs...

One other thing you can do is turn the key to on for 5-10 seconds without starting it, then crank, if it starts right away, you most likely have a fuel problem.... have you ever changed fuel filter? Is SES light on?
You most likely have the 4.2 our platform uses an Inline 6 (I6) engine.... if it's your fuel pressure regulator, then you'll have to replace it...
 
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KNBlazer

Member
Feb 8, 2012
811
First thing though, you need to visit your local auto parts store and get your check engine light (SES) checked, come back and let us know...

this though is the fuel pressure regulator (FPR)...This is a pic of when I replaced mine because it was leaking...
uploadfromtaptalk1404189876614.jpg
 
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Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
If you'd like to clean your throttle body here's a good video of how to by one of our guys here, MAY03LT. Also notice the large black box he removes, if you have that then you have the 4.2 liter.

Cleaning a Chevy Trailblazer throttle body I6 4.2: http://youtu.be/VdvgsaDmkac


Edit: I see someone already told you to look up that video, didn't see that. But if you haven't looked it up yet, here ya go.
 

dmanns67

Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
Its amazing what cleaning the throttle body can fix. Make sure you pull the (2) PCM fuses (15-20 min) once the throttle body has been cleaned for the relearning process instead of disconnecting the battery. I believe May covers that in his video.
 

Robbabob

Member
Dec 10, 2012
1,096
First of all, I give you a ton of credit for going outside your comfort zone to sign up here and ask questions.

Second, I hate the shop you went to for a FIX, and still it's not. If you take it back, they'll just want to charge you more. Your issue is probably not one item, but their approach sucked!

I found a member in your area and I'm PMing them. Maybe they can stop by and see about giving you a hand to get started... so maybe you will know what things are when we suggest a cleaning or replacement.

cross your fingers....
 

jomulk56

Member
Apr 21, 2014
214
Where in Indiana? I'm in the Ft Wayne area and fairly handy under the hood if you're close and need help. Also I agree it sounds fuel related. Throttle body, regulator, maybe an injector going bad and bleeding down the pressure (had a Grand Prix do that with the same symptoms you're having), also could be the crank position sensor (I think the I6 has one)
 

Chickenhawk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
779
I concur with a lot of the opinions in here.

Do you find it tends to be harder to start just after you stop for gas?

Here is the order you should proceed:

#1 - Cleaning the throttle body will help a lot because when they disconnected the battery to change the plugs, the computer lost its memories settings where it had adapted to a dirty throttle body over time.

#2 - Check your spark plugs to make certain they used ONLY AC Delco 41-103 plugs.

#3 - Check the fuel pressure regulator for leaking

#4 - Check your fuel pump pressure. Your fuel pump may be failing. It is easy to pick up an inexpensive fuel pressure tester at your local auto supply store and insert it onto the schrader valve fitting right near the fuel filter underneath the truck. It is no harder than putting air in your tires. It should read 55 to 65 PSI. When they start to go bad, they don't go bad at high speed, they tend to go bad at low speed, when starting or when starting up just after getting gas. (The bearings inside wear out, and like the fan in an air conditioner that rattles a bit when first starting up, bad bearings tend to be more noticeable when they are cold, not hot.)

All of these can be done by almost anyone with a minimum of tools and the motivation to watch a couple of videos and try it themselves.
 

MandaGibbs

Original poster
Member
Jun 30, 2014
8
Alright everyone so im really really REALLY upset because I made a mistake today. Took my car to auto zone where they ran the code on my ses. They found 32 codes. They wrote them down for me and advised I take them back to where they worked on my car.

P0440 B0785 C0379 C0306 U1095
P0172 B0780 C0374 C0305 C0267
U1301 B0775 C0359 C0300 C0291
B2725 B0770 C0327 U1000 C0281
B0790 C0550 C0321 U1255 C0237


To make a long story shortish, the auto body shop gave me a lot of runaround, tested more stuff, CHARGED me another 75 dollars for a NEW diagnostics ( I didnt realize they were going to do that) to call me and tell me they noticed a fuel leak which I never noticed before and told me to diagnose that theyd have to do a lot more testing and labor to find out how to fix the leak. They said something about how the only code they got was the P0440 and that was likely because of the fuel leak and was causing all the other stuff. so anyway, Im guessing I'll need to check that, which im planning on doing myself if anyone can tell me anything about that that hasnt already been discussed. Ill reread over all the great posts again and watch the videos.

They told me they did clean the throttle, but I havnt checked myself.

My engine IS a 4.2L

The receipt shows they used the right spark plugs, but if need be I'll double check that too. Im just so frusturated and over it right now.
 

MandaGibbs

Original poster
Member
Jun 30, 2014
8
Jomulk 56 I am also in fort wayne!! I would be so so so grateful if you wouldnt mind taking a look. I would gladly even pay someone that I for sure knew I could trust and so far this site has been so helpful i dont think anyone would steer me wrong!
 
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MandaGibbs

Original poster
Member
Jun 30, 2014
8
Ugh Robbabob you were exactly right! they did charge me more. Im so stupid I just thought I was doing the right thing. Thank you for contacting someone in my area.
 
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RayGumm

Member
Apr 16, 2014
630
All those codes don't make sense. I did not check what each individual one means, but they all seem to be pointing to either computer or transfer case control module (part of the 4wd system) faults, EXCEPT the p0172 and p0440. The p0172 is your oxygen sensor saying its too lean-not getting enough fuel, and the p0440 is an emissions related leak code, possibly due to the fact that she is running lean.

Here is what I think:
Fuel pump is probably good, uness it is the source of the leak.
Leaking fuel from AFTER the pump would cause a loss in fuel pressure.
This would explain the need for 2 cranks or letting the pump pressurize the line for an extended period before it will start.

Find that leak (if there is one) and you've probably found your culprit. Let someone competent with a scanner (autozone guys may not be, might have given you history codes as well) to recheck those codes, find your fuel leak, test the fuel pressure, and go from there. I wouldn't trust that shop for sh!t. Clean your throttle body and reset the PCM yourself just to be sure, but it sounds like that may not be your whole problem if there is a leak and/or fuel pressure issue.
 
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MandaGibbs

Original poster
Member
Jun 30, 2014
8
Thank you very much Raygumm I will definitely do all that! The mechanic did diagnostics and said the only code they got was the P0440 which was related to the E vap so Im sure that at least one problem and probably the main one is with the fuel. Checking that is definitely my next step, but I didnt want the leeches doing it so now I have to figure it out on my own or find someone I trust. This forum has definitely been a lifesaver in keeping me sane and not at a loss trusting mechanics blindly.
 

RayGumm

Member
Apr 16, 2014
630
You are more than welcome. We aim to help members save money, and learn, not to make money off innocent people.

Get in touch with the forum member(s) in your area. They can (if they are ready, willing, and able) help you at least diagnose and possibly fix whatever issues you have much much cheaper than some shady shop. Plus, you will likely learn a thing or two about your truck. I have a rule about shops-goes something like: "... well you just can't fool me again!!" :smile:

The p0172 code may take a drive cycle or two to show up as 'confirmed'. IIRC the p0440 shows up as 'confirmed' almost immediately. That would explain why all they saw is the p0440 if they cleared the codes and re-read them. Realistically, they should be able to read pending and history faults too, hell my Torque app with a bluetooth ELM327 code reader can do that. Any shop worth two poops should be able to. But, they could be lying, incompetent, or just plain lazy. Who knows.

At any rate, get that leak assessed. Depending on where it is, it could ostensibly be VERY dangersous if it happens to spray atomized fuel on part of the exhaust. This isn't exceedingly likely, but still rather possible.

Side note: have you had any issues with your 4wd system? Do all the lights come on at startup and then only the mode selected stay on? Is the 'service 4wd' light on? (Looks like a wrench next to 4 wheels connected by axles) Have you checked the 4hi or 4lo settings to see if they are operating properly? (put it in 4hi or 4lo on dry pavement and very slowly turn-if its engaged and working it will 'bind and hop').
 
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Robbabob

Member
Dec 10, 2012
1,096
I did contact jomulk56 and happy to see they want to help! I am glad to see a meeting potential to go over everything going on. I just hate to see the (expletives) taking advantage of you... any owner. It can be too easy for them...
 
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jomulk56

Member
Apr 21, 2014
214
MandaGibbs said:
Jomulk 56 I am also in fort wayne!! I would be so so so grateful if you wouldnt mind taking a look. I would gladly even pay someone that I for sure knew I could trust and so far this site has been so helpful i dont think anyone would steer me wrong!
Just let me know and I'll make time.

MandaGibbs said:
Thank you very much Raygumm I will definitely do all that! The mechanic did diagnostics and said the only code they got was the P0440 which was related to the E vap so Im sure that at least one problem and probably the main one is with the fuel. Checking that is definitely my next step, but I didnt want the leeches doing it so now I have to figure it out on my own or find someone I trust. This forum has definitely been a lifesaver in keeping me sane and not at a loss trusting mechanics blindly.
It can also be a bad gas cap not sealing causing a p0440. I've had that happen before too.

Hypnotoad said:
I would have the codes cleared at autozone and see which ones come back. Sounds like there are a lot of codes stored in the history. Just deal with the codes that come back.
They won't clear codes here now (unless you find a guy that's cool) because it's 'illegal'. That's what I was told by 3 guys at 3 different places when I replaced the exhaust system on my tahoe. I laughed at all of them and told them they've lost my business.
 
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Hypnotoad

Member
Dec 5, 2011
1,584
In the mean time, until the problem is fixed, try to put the key into the on position without starting the car for a few seconds. Then, turn it off and try starting it as usual again.
 
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MandaGibbs

Original poster
Member
Jun 30, 2014
8
RayGumm ever since i have had the truck the 4lo hasnt worked. I did use 4 Hi some last winter, it worked okay but sometimes When I would turn I remember it would shake sometimes or pull and Id have to switch back to 2hi for it to run properly but I never really thought much about it. It was always something that I figured I needed to fix but never had the time/money and it didnt affect too much.
 

RayGumm

Member
Apr 16, 2014
630
MandaGibbs said:
RayGumm ever since i have had the truck the 4lo hasnt worked. I did use 4 Hi some last winter, it worked okay but sometimes When I would turn I remember it would shake sometimes or pull and Id have to switch back to 2hi for it to run properly but I never really thought much about it. It was always something that I figured I needed to fix but never had the time/money and it didnt affect too much.
This might explain the multitude of other codes, or at the very least some of them. There is a fairly easy but fairly detail oriented process to assessing the issues on the 4wd system, it is referenced here on this forum a LOT. Search 4wd issues here and you will likely find a bunch of threads, all with the same diagnosis process and mainteneance advice and questions, largely from a member here named Roadie. If I had to guess, I would say transfer case control module is bad due to all the computer related codes, but I am not the expert here on the 4wd system, so please try to research and diagnose more before just throwing possibly expensive parts at it.

IIRC the tranfser case is always 'working' even in 2hi and if there is a serious issue it could leave you stranded, even in 2hi. I would try to get the 4wd system assessed and fixed as soon as you figure out your fuel delivery issue. Would really suck to get her all fixed and then just be stranded because the transfer case or related components crap out.

Btw the shaking and pulling it did when you turned in 4hi is probably indicative of it working because the front and rear power delivery is locked together, causing the whole system to bind and jump when on dry pavement and the wheels can't slip as if on sand or ice.
 
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smt 59

Member
MandaGibbs said:
Thank you very much Raygumm I will definitely do all that! The mechanic did diagnostics and said the only code they got was the P0440 which was related to the E vap so Im sure that at least one problem and probably the main one is with the fuel. Checking that is definitely my next step, but I didnt want the leeches doing it so now I have to figure it out on my own or find someone I trust. This forum has definitely been a lifesaver in keeping me sane and not at a loss trusting mechanics blindly.
With this code, change the gas cap,could help with the smell of gas and pressure issues as well, when my cap needed replacing these were the symptoms.
 

dmanns67

Member
Apr 3, 2013
32,979
Ohio
smt 59 said:
With this code, change the gas cap,could help with the smell of gas and pressure issues as well, when my cap needed replacing these were the symptoms.
I had the message "tighten gas cap" on my DIC two days in a row before P0440 popping up. Replaced gas cap and code came back. Ended up replacing vent solenoid valve on the gas tank. About 20min to replace and $40 part from Advanved Auto.
 
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jomulk56

Member
Apr 21, 2014
214
So I met up with MandaGibbs today and checked out her trailblazer. The FPR seemed fine and wasn't letting fuel thru to the vacuum side, bogging down or revving way up when vacuum was disconnected. I didn't have a tester kit so I couldn't check leak down of the injectors and didn't want to pull apart her engine in a parking lot to see if they leaked. What I did find was a fairly severe leak from the fuel tank itself. The leak came from the top, down the front tank strap, across the crossmember/protection bar, and dripped off the bottom of the tank at the front. I also found a brown sticky tar like substance on the bottom of the tank. I also had her start it while i checked all the fuel likes from the pump and didn't feel any leaks. So, my guess is the fuel pump gasket is leaking or there's a crack in the tank up to. Lucky there's an 02 trailblazer at take a part and they're having a 50% off sale this weekend. I suggest her and her husband go pull the tank and pump to replace theirs since it'd only be $25-$30 for the 2 this week. So we'll see how it goes.
 

RayGumm

Member
Apr 16, 2014
630
jomulk56 said:
So I met up with MandaGibbs today and checked out her trailblazer. The FPR seemed fine and wasn't letting fuel thru to the vacuum side, bogging down or revving way up when vacuum was disconnected. I didn't have a tester kit so I couldn't check leak down of the injectors and didn't want to pull apart her engine in a parking lot to see if they leaked. What I did find was a fairly severe leak from the fuel tank itself. The leak came from the top, down the front tank strap, across the crossmember/protection bar, and dripped off the bottom of the tank at the front. I also found a brown sticky tar like substance on the bottom of the tank. I also had her start it while i checked all the fuel likes from the pump and didn't feel any leaks. So, my guess is the fuel pump gasket is leaking or there's a crack in the tank up to. Lucky there's an 02 trailblazer at take a part and they're having a 50% off sale this weekend. I suggest her and her husband go pull the tank and pump to replace theirs since it'd only be $25-$30 for the 2 this week. So we'll see how it goes.
Awesome action jomulk! Any word on the 4wd system faults?
 

Mark20

Member
Dec 6, 2011
1,630
Welcome aboard!

We are more than happy to help where we can. Its amazing how many members around you will run over to help at the mere mention of lunch.

Just pay it forward when you can.
 
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DustinC1989

Member
Apr 12, 2013
11
jomulk56 said:
They won't clear codes here now (unless you find a guy that's cool) because it's 'illegal'. That's what I was told by 3 guys at 3 different places when I replaced the exhaust system on my tahoe. I laughed at all of them and told them they've lost my business.
Off topic here, but they lost your business for not breaking the law?
I work for a large commercial parts supplier and can tell you that it IS in fact against the law for them/us to clear any codes, comes with some hefty fines as well...

So to say they lost your business because they obey the law... I'm sure they are just absolutely heartbroken
 

jomulk56

Member
Apr 21, 2014
214
DustinC1989 said:
Off topic here, but they lost your business for not breaking the law?
I work for a large commercial parts supplier and can tell you that it IS in fact against the law for them/us to clear any codes, comes with some hefty fines as well...

So to say they lost your business because they obey the law... I'm sure they are just absolutely heartbroken
Yup they did /story.
 

Miles20

Member
Jun 28, 2019
7
Virgina
Hey there! I found this site on a youtube video I watched on troubleshooting trailblazers. Thing is-I'm so sick of getting screwed and I'm realizing I'm not the only one. My car wont start on the first try. If I crank it once, turn it off and try again it starts no problem (well, sometimes it still takes a sec).

It's a 2003 Chevy Trailblazer... I think it's an LS but I couldnt find that info anywhere on the car so I'm not positive. Also not positive about the size of the engine. In the 5 years I've had this car, I've replaced the ignition switch, starter, alternator, battery, and serpentine belt twice, and still my car is struggling to start again. Most recently (as in last Wednesday) I had the thermostat, an engine coil, and the spark plugs replaced. When I got the car back is when it got really bad. Before that it would stutter sometimes but eventually start and twice I had to have it jumped (even though the battery is still fairly new) and then it worked great again. But now, it ALWAYS needs two cranks, unless I have recently driven it then it starts up the first time.

I live in Indiana and the only people I know who know anything about cars are my grandfather and uncle, both in alabama. Over the phone my uncle mentioned it may be the fuel line or not enough fuel pressure. Any other suggestions or thoughts on what to do?? I just don't want to keep paying. For the recent work I got screwed and charged 1100 dollars and I just don't have any more to spend right now and it would suck if it dies anyway. Please help.
Im having same problem you ever fix it
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Im having same problem you ever fix it

Helpful forum tip for old threads like this one: if you tap/hover on the poster's avatar, you'll get a pop up window that tells you the last time they logged into the site. Since the majority of people in this thread haven't logged in, in years, you're not likely to get a response. :frown:
 

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