i have been reading alot of posts about fill & drain plugs on rear ends and TC's and my question is, what if a person was to put anti-seize on the plugs before putting them back in? they wouldn't get stuck that way. or would there be an increased risk that they could work their way loose and fall out?
fill/drain plugs for rear ends and TC
- Thread starter niceguypmp3
- Start date
one word: contamination....
Never seize is one thing you definitely don't want mixing with TC fluid... probably also don't want it mixed with diff fluid either.
My preferred strategy for not letting them get stuck: dip them in the fluid they're for before reinstalling them. Set aside a very small quantity of the fluid (literally drops onto the threads will do). Don't "ape" them in, either. Just "snug". AND.... service per schedule. In 25 years I've only had problems with 1 drain plug on a diff... and that diff spent an enormous amount of time in water and mud. That diff also eventually ate the weights in the locker unit, but that's a different story.
Never seize is one thing you definitely don't want mixing with TC fluid... probably also don't want it mixed with diff fluid either.
My preferred strategy for not letting them get stuck: dip them in the fluid they're for before reinstalling them. Set aside a very small quantity of the fluid (literally drops onto the threads will do). Don't "ape" them in, either. Just "snug". AND.... service per schedule. In 25 years I've only had problems with 1 drain plug on a diff... and that diff spent an enormous amount of time in water and mud. That diff also eventually ate the weights in the locker unit, but that's a different story.
OH, forgot to mention.... if and when you remove the drain or fill plug... CLEAN IT. Use whatever is necessary but it's metal and can take some abuse. I use a stainless bristle brush and brake cleaner... when I'm done it looks almost new. That way there's nothing to gall or gum up the threads when reinstalling. Make sure it is completely dry (shouldn't be an issue, most cleaners evaporate well). Apply a little fluid when reinstalling.
ALSO, clean around it BEFORE removing it so you don't contaminate anything when reinstalling.... forgot to mention that as well. Scrape dirt/grease from around the plug, use a brush to get as much crap away as possible. It doesn't need to be surgically clean (like installing bearings), but you don't want grease and/or mud getting in the TC in any amount.
ALSO, clean around it BEFORE removing it so you don't contaminate anything when reinstalling.... forgot to mention that as well. Scrape dirt/grease from around the plug, use a brush to get as much crap away as possible. It doesn't need to be surgically clean (like installing bearings), but you don't want grease and/or mud getting in the TC in any amount.
Mooseman
Moderator
Teflon tape could be a substitute but not on the first couple of threads. And, as mentioned, don't torque it down like a gorilla.
Chickenhawk
Member
- Dec 6, 2011
- 779
Also - learned the hard way - if your diff fill plug is seized, try taking a cheap 1/2-inch to 3/8-inch square socket adapter and grind down the 3/8-inch end to remove any taper. This will help get it deeper into the square 3/8-inch hole.
And, once you get it out, even if you're lucky and don't need a torch, welder or vice grips like most of us, throw away that stock fill plug and replace it with an ordinary 1/2-inch npt plug that uses a hex socket. You can even get them in stainless for about $6 each.
Threads are tapered, so as others have said, don't torque it down much.
And, once you get it out, even if you're lucky and don't need a torch, welder or vice grips like most of us, throw away that stock fill plug and replace it with an ordinary 1/2-inch npt plug that uses a hex socket. You can even get them in stainless for about $6 each.
Threads are tapered, so as others have said, don't torque it down much.