DEAL Farewell, Thank You, Free Parts!


Well-Known Member
Well, I finally gave in a couple weeks ago and got rid of my TB. It had gotten to the point where I was the only one that could drive it for any distance and only with a box of parts and tools in the back. It was our primary vehicle and just became too unreliable. In addition to the electrical gremlins (class II network issues) talked about in other posts, it needed: new tires, catalytic converter, fan clutch, thermostat, and the transmission was starting to slip. Other than that, it was great!

We bought a 2018 Honda Pilot. I'll tell you - that 18 year old TB rode better and had a lot more torque despite less horsepower (thank you I6 vs V6). GM does a lot of things wrong, but ride quality usually isn't one of them. I think it was quieter on the highway too - Hondas are known for being noisy.

The attached picture shows a bunch of parts I have left. Any of you are welcome to them for free. PM me for any particular part(s) with your shipping location. First come, first served. You pay shipping and packaging if necessary. If you're the winning "bidder", I'll send you an estimated shipping and packaging cost (if I have to buy a box or some bubble wrap or something). I'M NOT TRYING TO PROFIT FROM THIS. If you're okay with the shipping estimate, pay me via PayPal or Venmo and I'll ship you the parts. I'm in NE Wisconsin, just south of Appleton, if you want to estimate costs yourself before you ask for the part. I can't promise Amazon-like speed, but I'll get them out as soon as I can.

Here's some of the history of the parts shown:
  1. Two bearing hubs - I took them off when changing CV shafts and replaced with new. They were not grinding when I took them off. That's why I kept them. They're both Timken. I got in the habit of replacing bearing hubs whenever I took one off even if it wasn't bad. I put one back on once and it failed soon after. Might have been coincidence. Might have been me beating on it to get it off. I don't think these two were on very long so I didn't beat on them to get them off.
  2. 4WD disconnect - this is the OEM disconnect. I had it fail a few years ago (outboard bearing) and replaced it with an after-market. I was sure the aftermarket wouldn't last so I rebuilt the OEM in accordance with the guide on so it would be ready to go if I needed it. I never needed it. I didn't grease it when I rebuilt it. Just grease and go! Sprockets, seals, and bearings are new. There's no actuator. The aftermarket one did fail and I had to swap the OEM back in.
  3. MOOG upper ball joint - NIB! - I bought two, replaced the passenger side one because it was bad, couldn't get the driver side out so I was left with an extra and the Amazon return window was closed. P.S. - the drivers side was good anyway!
  4. OEM exhaust manifold and heat shield (with O2 sensor) - nothing wrong with it (except the O2 sensor is seized in!). I replaced mine with a Dorman several years ago. I had several bolts that popped their heads off causing exhaust noise. When I got the OEM out there were no cracks. The noise was coming from the broken bolts only. I just replaced it because I had the Dorman (and the Amazon return window was probably closed too).
  5. Coil Packs - I have a post out there from an issue I ran into several years ago with counterfeit 41-103 plugs purchased from Amazon. This caused the OEM coil packs to start failing in succession. After the first three failed, I bought a six pack of Dorman (I know, I know - AC Delco only, but I needed them right away). The two in the wrappers are unused Dorman's from the six pack (I had already bought two singles) - brand new, never used. The other three are OEM AC Delco's that hadn't failed. They are used but should be good. P.S, the Dorman's worked fine for about three years - maybe more, I don't remember.
  6. Two brand new 41-103 plugs. I honestly don't remember if they were from the counterfeit Amazon ones I got. I know I had some genuine ones too. Use at your own risk. They'll work great for about 10,000 miles. Then, you'll pull them and find half the electrode gone if they're fake.
  7. Junk yard instrument cluster - I bought this to replace mine to see if it helped the Class II network issues I was having. Never got around to trying it. I don't know if it's any good, but you're welcome to it.
Once again, thank you all for all the help over the years. It's because of that help and this site that I was able to keep an early 2000 GM SUV running for 18 years and 241,XXX miles! There's no way it would have made any sense to keep that truck for that long if I had to pay someone to do the work.


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