NEED HELP Fan control module failed again

Riktar

Original poster
Member
Sep 1, 2017
43
Neosho, WI
After some research I thought I replaced the failed fan control module on my 07 TB which corrected my fan always on condition. Unfortunately the fix only lasted a few weeks with the same symptoms (Fan continues to run even after the TB is turned off. Temp solution is to pull fuse #35 in the under the hood fuse box) occurring.

I suppose it could have been a bum replacement part but I would like to seek the counsel of this forum to see if there is any other reason for the control module to fail.
 
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Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,685
Tampa Bay Area, FL
This is a new one, I haven't heard of before. To satisfy my own curiosity, are you able to change the blower speeds, and which vents the air blows out of on your control unit, even after the ignition is off? Or does the fan always blow at the last speed setting that was set?
 
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Riktar

Original poster
Member
Sep 1, 2017
43
Neosho, WI
No on changing the blower speeds or changing the venting from the controls. And in terms of the fan staying on after the key: It's always locked on the highest fan setting. With the TB running I have tried changing the fan speeds and no joy. The fan just runs wide open.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,050
kanata
It would appear that the relay in the module has stuck closed which causes your problem. Not sure how serviceable the actual module is but you might try "autopsy" it to see if indeed the relay failed / stuck / broke or something is holding it up (eg. stress on the board / component).

Of course, other electrical test to see if the selector is actually operating electrically correctly should be done as opposed to doing the "moved the switch and nothing happened" testing which does not tell you much about the condition of the electrical paths.
 
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TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,054
Brighton, CO
Is it possible that his fan is starting to fail, and causing a high voltage spike when turning on, spark welding the relay?
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,050
kanata
anything is possible... without some investigative work, the wallet and replacement effort are the "tools of the day".
 

Riktar

Original poster
Member
Sep 1, 2017
43
Neosho, WI
Thank everyone for the suggestions! I will do some digging to see what measurement I can take for the fan to see how much it is drawing when hooking 12 volts to it.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,050
kanata
not sure that the current draw will tell you much as I am not sure people know the power rating for the motor. IF you have to old one, I would pull the cover on the relay to see what's up. Go from there.
 

Riktar

Original poster
Member
Sep 1, 2017
43
Neosho, WI
While that is a great idea I took advantage of Amazon's return policy and sent the first replacement module back already.

Who knows? Maybe it was a case of just getting a bum replacement. My luck never seems to work out like that but hey, there is a first time for everything..... 😉
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,050
kanata
no problem... "free replacement" works for me. I guess then you are looking at crossing your fingers and hoping that the next will last a "bit longer". Outside of that (once the free replacement program ends), then you can start looking elsewhere... lots of posts about fan motor excessive draws, connectors melted, poor / oxidized connections, poor switches, on and on.

I normally work from cheapest / free to expensive and more work... but it depends on the problem.
Odds are high that the motor might be on its way out but it could be other things... but again without doing some checks (resistance / continuity / etc), it could be lots of areas.... or just bad luck. :smile:

you didn't actually mention the manufacturer of the modules that you have tried so far.
 

Riktar

Original poster
Member
Sep 1, 2017
43
Neosho, WI

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,054
Brighton, CO
Personally... Not a part I would have bought...
 

budwich

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Jun 16, 2013
2,050
kanata

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
7,736
Tampa Bay Area
This was First Hinted at by @Blkshdw in Post #2:

Check out this video for "The Toss Up" Choice between either The Blower Motor Control Module or in this case... the much more likely suspect...The Automatic Climate Control Module improperly sending PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) Grounding Signals along the Purple Wire to keep the Blower Motor Running ...even when the HVAC Switch/Key are turned OFF.

Perform a Quick Check of the Harness Wiring Connector with a DMM set to VDC checking the harness lead coming from the ACCM after unplugging it from the BMCM and then inserting The RED Test Lead between the 12 Volts DC (Red) Hot Lead side of the Connector while inserting the Black Test Lead at the Purple PWM Ground Connector.

This action s
hould reveal if any Voltage is present and the ACCM is still LIVE with the Key Off ...and sending Grounding Signals along the Purple Wire at the WRONG TIME ...versus the problem being within the recently replaced Blower Motor Control Module:

 
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Riktar

Original poster
Member
Sep 1, 2017
43
Neosho, WI
I have the automatic.

Thanks for the video and the suggestion for checking voltage! I am off with the multimeter this weekend to see what I find!
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,050
kanata
I have the automatic.

Thanks for the video and the suggestion for checking voltage! I am off with the multimeter this weekend to see what I find!
ok... well that helps me. forget about the "relay part", there is no relay in the automatic climate control system... its a power FET design which is "modulated" to provide the appropriate "chopped voltage cycle" to provide the "right amount of powering" for a given speed. As such, it is possibly that the main controller is not operating correctly as suggested in the post by mrrsm. Having said that, the "power switch fet" is the weak point and if the draw is too great, it will be "harmed".
 

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