Fan clutch

Stuntmanmike77

Original poster
Member
May 6, 2018
137
Sanford, ME
Hello all. Getting ready to replace my water pump and fan clutch. I've heard there are a couple options. Just wanted to make sure I got a good one. The clutch I got is a four seasons 46024. The description online says it's a severe duty thermal electronic type. It does have the harness coming out the back. Don't know much about them. Is this a good fan and will it make noise? The old one is ticking like a clock now.
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
Hello all. Getting ready to replace my water pump and fan clutch. I've heard there are a couple options. Just wanted to make sure I got a good one. The clutch I got is a four seasons 46024. The description online says it's a severe duty thermal electronic type. It does have the harness coming out the back. Don't know much about them. Is this a good fan and will it make noise? The old one is ticking like a clock now.

Not sure about the years but there was a TSB long time ago about ticking fan clutches and a reprogramming of the PCM to alleviate the tucking as the PCM tried to keep the fan speed at idle between 300 and 600 rpm. Or something like that, memory is a little fuzzy.

GM TSB #05-06-02-004
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Haven't heard of anyone here using the 4-seizin (nickname for their compressors). You can be our guinea pig :smile:
 

Stuntmanmike77

Original poster
Member
May 6, 2018
137
Sanford, ME
well, got it all finished and the new fan clutch sounds like a jet engine when you rev the motor. Also the fan keeps steady with engine speed, maybe even faster. Does not slow down at all! Also, still have a bit of fan wobble at idle. Any ideas or am I putting the old one back on?
 

Stuntmanmike77

Original poster
Member
May 6, 2018
137
Sanford, ME
All bolts double checked for tightness but I lost one of the thick washers for one of the water pump pulley bolts but i don't think that will affect anything. Checked the new clutch before i installed it. Looked ok and had descent drag on the wp side so idk.
 

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,642
Tampa Bay Area
Suggestions:

(1) Clear All Codes ...and Re-Start the Engine to see if this phenomena re-occurs.

(2) Remove the (-) Negative Battery Cable for 30 Minutes, then Re-Connect it and Start the Vehicle and see if it operates nominally.
 

TJBaker57

Member
Aug 16, 2015
2,897
Colorado
Have you run it at 2000 RPM for two minutes yet? This is the spec stated in a few GM documents for the fan speed to drop. I have witnessed this on my own vehicle, it often DOES take the high speed AND the time stated for it to come down.
 

Stuntmanmike77

Original poster
Member
May 6, 2018
137
Sanford, ME
Will give the engine speed a try. Have no codes. The connector on the new one is REALLY tight. Went to put some elec grease on it but, i can't even get it to unplug. Don't even know if it's in all the way. If it wasn't I'm assuming it would cause an engine light.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
the "electric clutch" is only an "electric valve" which allows for the "hydraulics" to flow to allow the clutch to "tighten" or "loosen" to a varying degree (ie. slip).... almost like a transmission. Anyway, as was suggested, perhaps on a "new install", the fluid chamber is still full so to speak and thus the clutch is fully engaged. As suggested, you need to have a "cool" engine and run at about 2000 rpm to allow the clutch to "pump out" the fluid thru the valve which should be open to allow it to escape. This is the "normal procedure" for the thermal clutch (ie. non-electric).
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
It is quite normal for a cold fan clutch to roar at first until the silicone loosens up and goes back into the reservoir. It could also be the fact it's brand new from the box and the silicone has pooled in the clutch area. It may or may not stop doing this each time it's started. Rev and hold it to about 2000 RPM and if it doesn't quiet down after a max of 5 minutes, I'd ship it back as defective. Mine usually stops after about 1 minute at most. Get a Hayden, ACDelco or Behr.

My TB doesn't do it (original OEM) but then my Saab does it each time but quiets down after a minute of driving (Hayden thermal).
 

Drec

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Jan 29, 2018
216
Yakima, Washington
I replaced my clutch fan last month with a HAYDEN 3200 Electronic. It is load at startup. I just thought that this is the way it is supposed to act. I haven't noticed if it quiets down, but I'll look at it. Other than that, it works great. No codes; which is what I was shooting for. I did have to replace the fan input plug to repair a couple of wires.
 

Eric04

Member
Dec 3, 2014
392
West Michigan
I replaced my OE electro viscous with a Hayden over two years ago. At cold start it has always roared and if I were to let it idle I have no idea how long it would take to unlock. However, as soon as I start down the road and go through gears once it settles down.
 

Stuntmanmike77

Original poster
Member
May 6, 2018
137
Sanford, ME
Ok. Going out soon and will run it for a few minutes at 2000 and see what happens. What about the fan wobble? Can a plastic fan get easily bent out shape? My pump is tight now and wobbled less before. I know I'm asking a lot just dont want nothing to get messed up from that. Thanks to all for the great advice.
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,047
Brighton, CO
Can you take a short video of the wobble. It should not wobble that I know of. If it does, its going to put undue stress on the water pump bearings.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
It's plastic so a little wobble is ok as long as it's not extreme or there is no break or crack in it. I've had a few of these and none ran true.
 

Mektek

Member
May 2, 2017
656
FL
A ticking clutch is not defective. It's a design flaw, but it will still operate correctly.
A small amount of wobble is tolerable, but too much will cause problems. I have measured out of round even on a new waterpump - that is the likely cause of the wobble you noticed.
Spin the fan manually and see if there is a wobble - that will tell you if it is the fan/clutch assembly or the waterpump - which is only noticeable with the engine running.
 

Stuntmanmike77

Original poster
Member
May 6, 2018
137
Sanford, ME
Awesome responses. Thanks again everyone. Ok so, I did run the engine at exactly 2000 rpm for about 3 min. It did quite down a bit and does turn alot slower now when it's cold. I also noticed the fan wobble does go away at anything above 1000 rpm. I think everything is good. The only problem I noticed was this morning I noticed the water pump was seeping a bit so, had to take the belt off remove the pulley bolts, pull it back to look and noticed the bolts came loose! So I tightened them up and I'll check it again soon. Does this normally happen? Do these bolts need a retorque?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Never heard of that one before but anything is possible. At least you caught it.
 

Stuntmanmike77

Original poster
Member
May 6, 2018
137
Sanford, ME
Hand tight with a 1/4 inch ratchet. Do not have a inch pound wrench. Well, leaking worse now since the retighten so, redoing the job and putting on a new gasket tommorow. Gonna try a light film of blue rtv between gasket and pump. Do any of these bolts pass through a water jacket?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Do any of these bolts pass through a water jacket?

Not that I know of. Blue should be fine but grey is a bit better. Make sure all surfaces are spotlessly clean.
 

Stuntmanmike77

Original poster
Member
May 6, 2018
137
Sanford, ME
Will do. Also, i think it's leaking because I used the fiber gasket that came with it and going on what I've read the ac delco pumps used a metal/fiber composite gasket and that was on my old one. So I ordered that one today so when it comes in we'll see what happens.
 

Stuntmanmike77

Original poster
Member
May 6, 2018
137
Sanford, ME
Hey everyone. Really don't mean to drag this out however, winter is basically already here in Maine. Tearing it down tommorow morning. Got the new gaskets in and the last question is do these NEED rtv cause the old one was still on it dry. These are the ones I will be installing. 15747312576071507876585.jpg15747312576071507876585.jpg1574731308921300905023.jpg
 

Mektek

Member
May 2, 2017
656
FL
There must have been something wrong in your original install because I have the paper gasket for 3 years without any leaks. No sealant needed - the gasket does the job but it couldn't hurt if you added some.
 

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