I know this has been already said....but be real careful with the amount of force applied to that EZ out. I have snapped those. Then you have REAL trouble.
Exhaust Manifold Replacment - input requested
- Thread starter TequilaWarrior
- Start date
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
Congrats on the rear bolt. As for the front, I don't know, may be a better option to keep drilling and tap the threads depending on how centered you are.
I opted to drill the rear bolt then re-tap as the spiral extractor was putting up too much of a fight. Snapping one of those would surely ruin your day.
I opted to drill the rear bolt then re-tap as the spiral extractor was putting up too much of a fight. Snapping one of those would surely ruin your day.
I think you would be able to use a 12 point socket, as it will have the points on the 4 corners you need, just make sure its a snug fit. Congrats on that rear bolt, but I think your pain is still coming on that front one..
After hours of fruitless searching for a "tap socket" to fit the EZ-out, I decided to go up a size. I ground the flats on the shank to fit a 6mm socket and got the fit pretty close to perfect. After boring out my guide bolt and drilling a little more into the bolt I was able to get a #3 extractor centered and engaged. Using a socket wrench and a lot more "grunt" than I was hoping to need I quickly figured out that my 1/4 turn of the original EZ-Out was simply it engaging into the bolt and not the bolt itself turning. This realization occurred to me as hundreds of tiny shards of EZ-Out exploded out of the bolt hole when it shattered. I have given up on trying to extract this bolt and have begun reinstalling everything. When I install the exhaust manifold I will attempt to put the broken bolt back into place. Only about 4 or five threads will actually engage in the block but I'm hopeful that will be enough as this port was not leaking.
Very sorry that things have not gone as planned. FWIW... since you have already demonstrated your ingenuity while trying to navigate this Nightmare... This video may provide you with another idea that heretofore has never been tried to my knowledge on any of the I-4, I-5 or I-6 Engines, but has a proven track record for the very same problem on the LS Engine Aluminum Heads.
IIANM, there is a Free, Open Bolt Hole drilled into the back face of the LL8 Aluminum Engine Head that may offer some purchase using an M10 X 1.5mm X 15mm Bolt and emulating the Bracket Design offered by Kral Company that, while made for LS Engines, could still offer an idea on how you might approach making a custom version for the GM 4.2L Engine:
"I Don't Care if The Cat is Black or White... As long as it Catches MICE!" Deng Zhou Peng
IIANM, there is a Free, Open Bolt Hole drilled into the back face of the LL8 Aluminum Engine Head that may offer some purchase using an M10 X 1.5mm X 15mm Bolt and emulating the Bracket Design offered by Kral Company that, while made for LS Engines, could still offer an idea on how you might approach making a custom version for the GM 4.2L Engine:
"I Don't Care if The Cat is Black or White... As long as it Catches MICE!" Deng Zhou Peng
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Everything is back together and running better than ever. I never got the front bolt out. I ended up cutting down one of the new exhaust manifold bolts to fit in the amount of threaded hole that I had available. It got "snug" but I didn't crank it down. Regardless, no leaks at the head or the downpipe. So all in all, success!
In this little adventure I replaced the exhaust manifold, fire ring, exhaust manifold gasket, exhaust manifold bolts, O2 sensor, CPAS, valve cover gaskets including spark tube gaskets and bolt grommets, intake manifold gaskets and throttle body gasket. I also scraped out as much of the built up carbon/oil goop in the intake ports. While I had them off the car I scrubbed the valve cover and intake manifold with Zep purple degreaser. It did quite an amazing job. The intake manifold was just as caked with carbon/oil build up - all of it was removed. I cleaned all the hoses I removed as they had buildup in them. I also did the throttle body since it was off the car. I also sprayed out all the electrical connections with contact cleaner. I installed the included heat shield on the exhaust manifold. I ditched the heat shield on the old manifold years ago as it had rotted completely through and was only held on by 1 stud.
The after-assembly test drive was delayed by a completely dead battery. After a boost from my wife's car - man, those cables got HOT - the test drive was perfect. No exhaust leaks (except from some holes in the muffler - that'll soon be replaced as well, but this time by an independent shop that will weld it on for me).
In my struggles with replacing the manifold I tried to remove the transmission dipstick tube. I couldn't get it out and struggled to get it to reseat correctly. It also let out several ounces of transmission fluid - which I presume is from my tinkering with the dipstick tube. I'll keep an eye on that.
Lessons learned or reinforced:
EZ-Outs aren't easy to use and they don't get things "out". I ground the shank of a #3 EZ-Out down to fit into a six millimeter socket. Due to a lack of working room I couldn't get a tap handle on it. Once I got the socket on it and used the ratchet - bang, shattered like glass. Luckily the pieces came right out.
Hold the manifold gasket to the manifold with zip ties in 2 places - after you get some bolts started you can cut the zip ties and remove them easily. Voila - no more dropping the gasket.
PUT THE FIRE RING ON BEFORE PUTTING BOLTS IN THE MANIFOLD. I didn't and ended up having to completely unbolt the manifold to get the fire ring installed. It would've been nice if it had been dimpled by the manufacturer so that it would stay in the manifold.
The included heat shield is made of a wafer of aluminum and godknowswhat. The edges were also razor-bleeping-sharp.
An O2 socket sounded like the greatest idea ever.... I couldn't get it onto the O2 sensor. There wasn't enough clearance between the sensor and the strut tower. I ended up using an open ended wrench.
In this little adventure I replaced the exhaust manifold, fire ring, exhaust manifold gasket, exhaust manifold bolts, O2 sensor, CPAS, valve cover gaskets including spark tube gaskets and bolt grommets, intake manifold gaskets and throttle body gasket. I also scraped out as much of the built up carbon/oil goop in the intake ports. While I had them off the car I scrubbed the valve cover and intake manifold with Zep purple degreaser. It did quite an amazing job. The intake manifold was just as caked with carbon/oil build up - all of it was removed. I cleaned all the hoses I removed as they had buildup in them. I also did the throttle body since it was off the car. I also sprayed out all the electrical connections with contact cleaner. I installed the included heat shield on the exhaust manifold. I ditched the heat shield on the old manifold years ago as it had rotted completely through and was only held on by 1 stud.
The after-assembly test drive was delayed by a completely dead battery. After a boost from my wife's car - man, those cables got HOT - the test drive was perfect. No exhaust leaks (except from some holes in the muffler - that'll soon be replaced as well, but this time by an independent shop that will weld it on for me).
In my struggles with replacing the manifold I tried to remove the transmission dipstick tube. I couldn't get it out and struggled to get it to reseat correctly. It also let out several ounces of transmission fluid - which I presume is from my tinkering with the dipstick tube. I'll keep an eye on that.
Lessons learned or reinforced:
EZ-Outs aren't easy to use and they don't get things "out". I ground the shank of a #3 EZ-Out down to fit into a six millimeter socket. Due to a lack of working room I couldn't get a tap handle on it. Once I got the socket on it and used the ratchet - bang, shattered like glass. Luckily the pieces came right out.
Hold the manifold gasket to the manifold with zip ties in 2 places - after you get some bolts started you can cut the zip ties and remove them easily. Voila - no more dropping the gasket.
PUT THE FIRE RING ON BEFORE PUTTING BOLTS IN THE MANIFOLD. I didn't and ended up having to completely unbolt the manifold to get the fire ring installed. It would've been nice if it had been dimpled by the manufacturer so that it would stay in the manifold.
The included heat shield is made of a wafer of aluminum and godknowswhat. The edges were also razor-bleeping-sharp.
An O2 socket sounded like the greatest idea ever.... I couldn't get it onto the O2 sensor. There wasn't enough clearance between the sensor and the strut tower. I ended up using an open ended wrench.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
Make absolutely sure you have the trans dipstick secured. The entire tube is in a bad place if it were to leak as the trans fluid will very likely make it onto the exhaust manifold and/or the cat.
I reallly dislike the fact it runs almost parallel to the manifold and the cat. I remember a few fire stories from trans fluid on these motors.
I reallly dislike the fact it runs almost parallel to the manifold and the cat. I remember a few fire stories from trans fluid on these motors.
Mooseman
Moderator
The majority of fires were caused by a leaking tranny cooler line spraying onto the exhaust. I wouldn't be surprised if the V8 variant also had fires caused by leaking fuel lines which is above the exhaust Y pipe. I'm dealing with both right now.
How can I tell if I have the tranny dipstick tube reinstalled correctly?
I felt like it kinda "clicked" (well, like it was being pushed into an o-ringed opening) and bottomed out. The mounting bracket lined right back up where it was and is now securely fastened in place just like before. Is there a sure-fire way to tell if it's in correctly?
That sounds good enough for me!! Perhaps just monitor for any dripping for the immediate future?
For good measure I sprayed off all the spots I saw dripping tranny fluid with brake cleaner and then ran my car through the car wash. I'll monitor for droplets on the back of the car and occasionally look under it as well as keeping an eye on the dipstick level.
Sparky
Member
- Dec 4, 2011
- 12,927
If it pushed back in to that "click" point and the bracket lined up them 99% you're fine. There is no fluid pressure on that O ring really, it just prevents fluid from sloshing out of the transmission basically. Even if it DID drip on occasion it really wouldn't be a risk, just a nuisance.
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,656
When you first mentioned the trans dipstick, you said this which made me mention it.
However since you followed up with this, it sounds like you have it installed correctly. That wasn't in your initial statement but aounds like you are good.
Yes, another area of concern is under the heat sheathing where it collects moisture, that's where mine were starting to seep. When he initially sounded like he wasn't sure if it was seated correctly that made my spidey sense tingle a little.
The couplings near the RF fender are also in a fantastic spot....
02smartrak
Member
I, too, had to deal with the exhaust leak by the exhaust manifold for 15 years. I bought the gasket and getting ready to remove the bolts and then I suddenly realized that the first 5 bolts (front of engine) was loose. I tighten the bolts and hoping the exhaust leak didnt burn off the gasket. When I start up the car, it was pure quiet until I shut it off and heard the clutch fan had a little hum. I replaced the clutch fan, start up the car and all you hear is the turbine sound of a new clutch fan instead of an exhaust leak.