SOLVED! Envoy gear shift

nozzleman

Original poster
Member
Apr 16, 2014
23
Shift lever is rubbery coming out of park towards 1. Going back up is solid. Sounds like a cable anchor. Any experience with this?
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Not quite sure I know what a rubbery shift feels like, but it's possible that one of the plastic bushings (at either end of the cable) are starting to fail on you. 9 times out of 10, it will be the one on the side of the transmission. Many of us have had to replace that one. That 1 time in 10, it could be the one under the center console by the handle. That 2nd one happened to me a couple of weeks ago.
 
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nozzleman

Original poster
Member
Apr 16, 2014
23
Rubbery: coming down from park, it seems that The inner cable is fully extended out of the sheath and the cable is bending before going back into the sheath as I go towards first. I can move the lever an inch or so without a positive feel.
Going back towards park, it seems that I am now pulling the cable back out and it is not bending and feels very normal.
I’ll know later today as I get into it. I was hoping to get some foresight.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
The cable attaches to the shift handle from the front, so when you shift out of park, you're pulling the cable back. Here's a shot from when I replaced the interior bushing.


89910
 

nozzleman

Original poster
Member
Apr 16, 2014
23
The cable is operating the shifter and lever on the transmission in a positive manner, no slop there. Apparently it is a problem inside the transmission.
Anyone have experience here? Is it an easy fix or do I need a rebuild? The tranny shifts and works fine except for this.
04 with 230k
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
If it is just feeling weird that may be the detent lever inside the transmission is a littlw wonky. If it actually shifts gears ok then I don't think you need a rebuild. Just drop thebpan and check out what is worn or bent etc. It is right there just under the pan.
 
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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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--^-- +1 with @Sparky...

Once you have removed the Transmission Fluid Pan... Orient your view to where the Shift Armature penetrates just inside of the Transmission Case. Fortunately ...what you want to inspect is RIGHT THERE in Plain View. If you examine the attached Image... There is a "Leaf Spring" that has the shape of an "Angular Canoe" outlined in RED ...with one end of it locking into a Hole in the under-body of the Transmission.

The other end that has an "L" Shaped Bend that fits into the Pawls of the PRNDL Bell Crank... (Highlighted in (Yellow Dots). As the the Shift Lever and Park Neutral Switch get moved by the Driver working the Shifter Handle through the Cable and Cable Housing inside of the Vehicle...That Long Flat Spring applies Constant Spring Pressure on each new (Yellow Dot) position as the Shifter moves through various PRNDL positions.

4L60EPAWLSPRING.jpg

That "Leaf Spring" is Held In Place by an 8 (10?) MM Bolt, which pre-loads it and guarantees enough Constant and Reliable Pressure to keep the assigned PRNDL in place under all driving conditions.

If you examine that Bolt and it has managed to loosen up... Gently Pop Off that Shifter Cable Nylon Retention Bushing and then Manually feel around the "Leaf Spring" and see if it has become loose as you work the PRNDL Lever through ALL of its Positions to ensure that the Pressure between the Spring and the Pawls are locking in solid. Make certain to end up with the Shift Lever Armature in the Park Position before you re-attach the Nylon Bushing.

PLEASE REMEMBER TO CHOCK YOUR WHEELS BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO MOVE THE SHIFT LEVER OUT OF THE PARK POSITION.

If you discover that the "Leaf Spring" has come loose... "Google" the information on the 4L60E Re-Build Procedures and determine how much "LIGHT" Torque is required to tighten it back down... and apply some "Blue" Thread Locker in a VERY SMALL AMOUNT on the Bolt Threads...and then Tighten it down to the Precise required level of Torque. If it is NOT loose and does not require any repair... this would be a good time to replace your Transmission Filter-Fluid while you have the Case Removed. This is an Excellent Video on that subject:

 
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nozzleman

Original poster
Member
Apr 16, 2014
23
Shift Cable 🙈
I was in denial. It seemed easier to replace the cable first before delving into the Xmission.
Found the sheath rusted through at the floor just above the boot under the floor mat. It allowed just enough movement to make the shifter sloppy or rubbery ie not positive.
Thanks for everyone’s help and humoring me along 😊.
 

mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
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Oct 22, 2015
7,639
Tampa Bay Area
You have actually contributed more important information that will Help Others in the future to ....Think of a Bicycle Hand Brake where the Outer Cable Housing gets loose at the Handle Bars and after it is NOT held in place... the Inner Cable via the Shifter Handle will have NO RESISTANCE TO WORK AGAINST.

Glad you finallySOLVED.jpg It!
 
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