Engine Swap, now need engine run...

Grimor

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2013
954
I figured I'd start a new thread in the right section to get some help on getting the truck going after the engine swap.
I turn the key and it clicks but no crank. No codes showing. Brand new battery, but I'm not sure if this is how the computer acts when it needs a relearn.
this is a video of what it's doing, there's no auto cranking just the clicking that stops when you stop turning the key. The truck won't go into park but should be cranking in Neutral. I did jump the the starter solenoid and got a slow crank (it was a low gauge button type I typically use on jetskis) So I think I might have a bad starter solenoid.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hg-gex5nnvg
How does a vehicle behave when it needs a relearn?

History, old engine died. Did an engine swap to an decent looking junk yard engine. New Cam and crank position sensors, misc other are either from old or new engine. Different front diff (4.10) rear is still the stock 3.42, not going to use 4wd until rear is swapped.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Are you sure that battery is fully charged? Sometimes they sit a long time on the shelf. Put a charger on it to be sure. If the battery is good, then I'm thinking your starter is pooched. Do you still have the one from the old engine? Could try swapping it.

Which PCM did you use? The one from your truck or the donor truck?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Borderline battery can cause all sorts of weird things. Sounds like when my battery got real weak in my old car. It would throw the solenoid (CLICK) but the volts would drop and the PCM disengage it, then try again (CLICK). It was really rapid vs slow but same idea.

From the other thread you said you jumped it and got a slow crank... If it is slow, the battery is weak. Charge it up and try again.
 

Grimor

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2013
954
Mooseman said:
Are you sure that battery is fully charged? Sometimes they sit a long time on the shelf. Put a charger on it to be sure. If the battery is good, then I'm thinking your starter is pooched. Do you still have the one from the old engine? Could try swapping it.

Which PCM did you use? The one from your truck or the donor truck?
Original PCM. The starter is from the old engine, new one didn't come with one. I'll toss the battery charger on the new battery in the morning before I try a starter swap.

Sparky said:
Borderline battery can cause all sorts of weird things. Sounds like when my battery got real weak in my old car. It would throw the solenoid (CLICK) but the volts would drop and the PCM disengage it, then try again (CLICK). It was really rapid vs slow but same idea.

From the other thread you said you jumped it and got a slow crank... If it is slow, the battery is weak. Charge it up and try again.
The starter button I tried has small wires and typically used to go from the battery to the ignition post on the solenoid. I used it to jump across the solenoid and it just doesn't carry much juice, I think that was the reason for the slow crank. I didn't really feel like shoving a screw driver down there to jump it. Going battery to solenoid ignition post didn't do anything.

$100 for a new starter isn't the end of the world, but the Bank of ye old Truck is getting lighter on funds lol
 

Grimor

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2013
954
it's ALIVE! wasn't the battery or the starter, the ground to the block wasn't connected. actually surprised i was getting as much power as i was. the good news is $200 in parts are going back. just need to reconnect the exhaust, get the shifter to go into park, and start addressing the normal bugs and gremlins that comes with engine swaps
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
You probably know this already, but I'll throw it out anyway. If you put a new crank angle sensor in, I believe you'll need a CASE relearn.
 

Grimor

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2013
954
Wooluf1952 said:
You probably know this already, but I'll throw it out anyway. If you put a new crank angle sensor in, I believe you'll need a CASE relearn.
I figured I'd need a CASE relearn, didn't really know which sensor or change would require it but enough stuff is different it seemed likely.

think it's safe to drive 10 miles to the dealer to do it?
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Grimor said:
I figured I'd need a CASE relearn, didn't really know which sensor or change would require it but enough stuff is different it seemed likely.

think it's safe to drive 10 miles to the dealer to do it?
After my PCMofNC PCM change, I drove for about 3 months before getting the CASE update.
 

Grimor

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2013
954
Wooluf1952 said:
After my PCMofNC PCM change, I drove for about 3 months before getting the CASE update.
i wonder if i should get it running code free, swap the rear and bigger tires, then do the tune so i only need 1 relearn. i am thinking of getting hp tuners so i can use it on my cobalt too... haven't decided
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
A CASE relearn only needs done once. Changing the axle ratio won't require that again.

Unless you're just referring to reprogramming the computer for the gear change. FYI - a dealer may not do the gear change for you. I tried a few years ago on my old car at a dealer, who used to do it all the time, but when they tried to call in to whatever master GM PCM database they had to update to then update my computer they were told no, they no longer do it due to "liability concerns." No matter how much the tech argued with them that it was a factory optional axle that had been installed in my car they wouldn't budge on it. The tech finally had to give up.

You may get lucky and they may be doing it again, but I haven't bothered with the dealer since for anything like that.

Only thing I'd use the dealer for is the CASE relearn, and use a PCMofNC tune for the gear change and the rest.
 

Grimor

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2013
954
Hooked up the exhaust, got the engine running and something was squealing pretty loudly. I think it might be the power steering pump, but I'll probably swap the tensioner first just because it's easier and I have a spare.

Got the trans warmed up, fluid topped off and so far it doesn't look like any leaks in the new lines.

I can't figure out if I have an exhaust leak or just burning off all the misc fluids that have ended up here and there.

Ok, on to the codes... Only 2 so far, and 1 I knew was coming.

P0526 - Matt had a thermal fan clutch so we swapped it for the electric clutch, that's why that code's there
P0411 - Secondary Air Injection System Incorrect Flow Detected - Not a big deal, I think it may be the valve that I have a spare of. But I'll double check the pump too. Shouldn't be a problem to fix either way, there really isn't muck to the system.

As long as I can figure out which pulley is making all the noise it's ready to finish putting it back together.
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Progress!
 

Grimor

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2013
954
First 1 mile drive, down to only the fan code now. There was a wire plug we missed on the pump. So the to do list now;

  1. Replace whatever is squealing on the belt. (still probably power steering)
  2. Adjust/replace the shifter so it will go in park.
    I looked at it today and the boot on the cable at the trans is loose/broke so the cable is gonna get mucked up, still trying to figure out why it won't hit park and how to adjust. I actually have a new shifter since mine has some other issues as well.
  3. Finish the body lift on the rear bumper
  4. put the grille and headlights in
  5. take the truck back to the body shop so they can learn how to paint without runs
  6. weld the front bumper on
  7. swap the rear axle (shorten drive shaft)
  8. suspension lift
  9. Put on bigger tires
  10. get an alignment
  11. Make lots of money

the good thing is after the first few things I can drive it while I do the others.
 
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Grimor

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2013
954
transfilter.jpg

Got all the parts for the trans filter
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Looking good!
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Seriously my next TB is getting those. That darn prop rod is the most annoying thing.
 
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Grimor

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2013
954
1,2 and 7 still left. i was looking through my old posts and can't seem to find one i thought i made when i first got my truck.

does anyone remember a write up on adding a 12v port to the overhead console?

If not i guess that explains why everyone hasn't done it yet lol
 

c good

Member
Dec 8, 2011
526
Good going on the engine swap. That's a lot of work. What happened to the original engine? What kind of miles were on it and how did it fail? Just curious. Thanks for any info. c good
 

Grimor

Original poster
Member
Mar 28, 2013
954
c good said:
Good going on the engine swap. That's a lot of work. What happened to the original engine? What kind of miles were on it and how did it fail? Just curious. Thanks for any info. c good
125k in the end it shot pieces of the piston rod out both sides of the engine and locked up hard enough it couldn't turn even with the head and oil pan off.

it was rusted up pretty good on the inside. looked like it had been parked in a river for a bit.

not typical for these engines.
 

c good

Member
Dec 8, 2011
526
Thanks for the follow up. I'm starting to feel a little better now about my 2002 with 165 K miles. :smile:
 

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