Engine rough idle and driveline clunking

Brandon45

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Joined
Jan 15, 2026
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5
Location
California
Hello all!

To start off, I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 with a 4.8l and it is also 4x4. Has 365,000 miles on it and bought it as somewhat of a project truck to restore. The engine has been replaced with a junkyard engine with ~145,000 miles on it currently and the transmission has ~100,000 miles on it. I have installed a transgo shift kit and some other valvebody stuff but it was doing this stuff before that too. I have just replaced the output shaft bushing in the transfer case due to ~1/8" of up and down play in it, and I replaced the transmission mount while I was at it.


Now that that's out of the way, lets get on to my problems:

1. When I let off the gas and get back on (lower speeds mainly) I can hear and feel an obvious clunk that sounds like its coming from the rear of the truck. The diff has around 1/8 of a turn of play, with no up and down or side to side play. It is a G80 that as far as I know is the original diff. Does this almost every time when I slow down for taking a turn then getting back on the gas when exiting the turn.

2. Sometimes when I start the truck I will hear a clunk but can't really identify where it is coming from. Does it far less often since the bushing was replaced in the transfer case.

3. If I quickly jab the throttle to more than about 25% from a stop I will feel a sort of double lurch. They are not sharp but it will start accelerating somewhat slow then will lurch into a faster acceleration. Does this whether or not the gas tank is full or empty. I'm thinking this could be related to the torque converter as when I'm on the highway and I get the transmission to unlock the TCC in 4th, when it locks up again I have to get off the gas and then back on to make sure the TCC fully engages (if I don't do this it will slip anywhere between 10-200 RPM depending on throttle position). I have installed a Fitzall TCC valve, which made the problem way better than it was (would slip ~50% of the time and had to get off and back on the gas multiple times in order for it to lock up).

4. The engines idles somewhat rough. The felt vibrations got worse after replacing the transmission mount. The RPM only jumps around 10-15 RPM (I have an ultra gauge hooked up to monitor transmission temps) but it feels like a misfire. I have a scanner that does show it is misfiring occasionally (randomly on all cylinders) when it is idling but not all the time when it is idling rough. Fuel pressure checked out good and all the injectors were within tolerance for pressure drop when using the method from the charm.li diagnostic guides. Long term fuel trims normally stay between -2% and +2%. Sometimes when I come to a stop they will be at -10% but will quickly recover to somewhere in the previous mentioned range. The engine has been sounding more "whiny" and high pitched around 1500-1800 RPM recently. Never misfires when driving, only when idling or giving throttle in park/neutral (ONLY at idle in drive). Feels better with the AC on also.


Sorry for the rambling! This is pretty much everything that I'm having trouble with. If you have any questions just let me know I'll try my best to answer. Thanks!
 
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Welcome to GMT Nation...

Just a thought about that *Clunking Noise"on your Y2K Silvy... There might ether be Loose Rear Diff Shackles involved ...or a Broken Leaf Spring as the Cause and Origin of the Accel-Decel Noises coming from the Rear End,


PS... Check The Glove Box RPO Sticker to confirm that you have the Centrifugal Eaton M-Locker Rear Diff...and also...Check for the Volume of the Rear Diff "Punkin' Fluid". Remember ...the G80 Locking Diff does NOT require the Friction Additive because it is NOT a "Limited Slip" Differential.

Check Out my own Y2k Silverado 1500 Thread linked below for a LOT more information, images, hands on Repair R&R actions and many Spot On Videos worthwhile knowing whenever working on these unique Rear Diff "Innards" from around Post #18 onward:


PS... As for the Sketchy Misfires at Idle:

(1) Intake Manifold Leaks that show up more when at Idle due to the INCREASED VACUUM at Low RPM that subsides at higher RPM due to Valve Overlap (Volumetric Efficiency) . Move the Vehicle out of the Garage let it Idle and with an ABC Fire Extinguisher close at hand, Very Lightly... Spray some Starter Fluid around the IM Flanges and near areas near the Firewall and listen for the RPM to RISE. If this Happens...The Culprits will be the Failing Intake Manifold Gaskets. Get the UPDATED Versions if necessary.

(2) EGR Problems ...either with it being clogged up or having a Malfunctioning Harness OR it may have a Broken or Compromised (Crushed), Rusted Up or Damaged EGR Gas Pipe connecting it to the Exhaust Manifold - Engine Head.
 
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Welcome to GMT Nation...

Just a thought about that *Clunking Noise"on your Y2K Silvy... There might ether be Loose Rear Diff Shackles involved ...or a Broken Leaf Spring as the Cause and Origin of the Accel-Decel Noises coming from the Rear End,

I'll try and take a look at that this weekend. I've only ever taken quick looks at the leaf springs and haven't looked for any cracks. Thanks!
 
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I know that the GMT360 platform suffers from clunking from the tranny slip yoke. Pull it out by removing the driveshaft and add some grease to the splines.

It could also be the diff is just worn and there is just too much free play between the pinion and ring gears. I don't have much experience with this, maybe @movietvet might have some ideas?

If you're getting some jolting/shuddering/vibrations while cruising and lightly pushing a little on the gas pedal, as if to just increase speed a little, it could be the TCC slipping. Try some Lubegard Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx. Mine needed two to fix the shuddering even though it's tuned to engage 100%, no slip.
 
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Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

Your list of concerns seemed never ending for a while. IMO, known weak spots are the slip yoke, like @Mooseman talked about and the torque converter. If you replace the transmission mount, do the engine mounts, too. You installed some transmission performance parts on a 100K plus transmission that you said has that mileage but is that from a rebuild or a salvage yard or what? I assume it is a 4L60E transmission and they have their fair share of problems. An inspection of the shackles and leaf springs is needed, too.

IMO, do the splines lube first and change the rear diff fluid. Make sure to use the recommended GM fluid. I am not a fan of "same as" fluids. But that is just me. I know Amsoil makes a great product. I think it takes 75w-90 full synthetic, but unsure, so check the owner's manual. If you don't have an owner's manual, why the hell not!
 
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Welcome to the forum from Oregon.

Your list of concerns seemed never ending for a while. IMO, known weak spots are the slip yoke, like @Mooseman talked about and the torque converter. If you replace the transmission mount, do the engine mounts, too. You installed some transmission performance parts on a 100K plus transmission that you said has that mileage but is that from a rebuild or a salvage yard or what? I assume it is a 4L60E transmission and they have their fair share of problems. An inspection of the shackles and leaf springs is needed, too.

IMO, do the splines lube first and change the rear diff fluid. Make sure to use the recommended GM fluid. I am not a fan of "same as" fluids. But that is just me. I know Amsoil makes a great product. I think it takes 75w-90 full synthetic, but unsure, so check the owner's manual. If you don't have an owner's manual, why the hell not!
The transmission was rebuilt by a shop a few years back. I have the engine mounts and am planning to do them this weekend. I'm planning on having it rebuilt if I have to drop the transmission at some point.

When doing research on greasing the slip yoke I saw a GM TSB stating to use only ATF on trucks with transfer case due to the fact that the grease could dissolve into the fluid in the transfer case. I'm wondering what your take is on this.

I changed the rear diff fluid about 6,000 miles ago and it was doing it after that too. I used some Valvoline 75w-90 full synthetic. The old gear oil that came out was dark but didn't smell burned or have any metal in it.

Thanks for the suggestions!
 
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I know that the GMT360 platform suffers from clunking from the tranny slip yoke. Pull it out by removing the driveshaft and add some grease to the splines.

It could also be the diff is just worn and there is just too much free play between the pinion and ring gears. I don't have much experience with this, maybe @movietvet might have some ideas?

If you're getting some jolting/shuddering/vibrations while cruising and lightly pushing a little on the gas pedal, as if to just increase speed a little, it could be the TCC slipping. Try some Lubegard Tranny Instant Shudder Fixx. Mine needed two to fix the shuddering even though it's tuned to engage 100%, no slip.
I've added some Lubegard red but haven't tried the Instant Shudder Fixx yet. I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
 
When doing research on greasing the slip yoke I saw a GM TSB stating to use only ATF on trucks with transfer case due to the fact that the grease could dissolve into the fluid in the transfer case. I'm wondering what your take is on this.
I've done it, no problems here. Use a good synthetic grease. I like Lucas Red #2.
 
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Yea, I have used, in many applications, stuff I call "Blue Goo" from LubeGard.
 
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