Hey everyone. Someone is selling a dual electric fan assembly from a 2006 Chevy Equinox. Will this work for a trailblazer?
Electric fans
- Thread starter Stuntmanmike1977
- Start date
Mooseman
Moderator
Need to replace the fan clutch (again) cause I can't stand the airplane groan noise. Can anyone please recommend a descent one and is it a must to replace the water pump as well? If so, rockauto sells a clutch/water pump assembly for about 150. It's made by GMB I believe. Is that a descent brand and if so is there a break -in procedure?
Mooseman
Moderator
I would recommend the clutch for the 2008 which is thermal. However, you would need to have the PCM tuned to turn off the money light for that code. Even the cheapest one, the USMW, would be better than any of the electro-viscous ones.
Edit: For the water pump, that's entirely up to you. Depends on how old it is and if the bearings in it are getting loose. USMW are also selling a combo pump and clutch for the 2008 and it's just a few bucks more:
2008 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER 4.2L L6 Radiator Fan Clutch | Shop Now at RockAuto
Cooling System Parts and More for Your 2008 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.
www.rockauto.com
Edit: For the water pump, that's entirely up to you. Depends on how old it is and if the bearings in it are getting loose. USMW are also selling a combo pump and clutch for the 2008 and it's just a few bucks more:
2008 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER 4.2L L6 Water Pump & Fan Clutch Assembly | Shop Now at RockAuto
Cooling System Parts and More for Your 2008 CHEVROLET TRAILBLAZER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.
www.rockauto.com
I'll see what I can find. PCM tune expensive? Is there a break in process for either one?
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,029
PCM of NC offers a tune for $150, and Limeswap offers it for $99? I haven't used Limeswap before, but he's a trusted member on this forum and has had excellent feedback for what he's been able to squeeze out of this platform.
Like Mooseman suggests, I would stick to a thermalstatic clutch from an 08/09. If you do consider going that route, I do have a spare thermal clutch (Hayden #2851) that I could offload for cheap + cost of shipping to you
. Makes the switch over from EV clutches easier as well. There isn't a break in period for the clutches, you just install them and that's it pretty much it. The aftermarket units do tend to have extended engagements during a cold start, otherwise they function exactly like old school clutch's did before being computer controlled.
Just found the box of the last fan clutch I bought and it is indeed a Four Seasons thermal fan clutch on it now. Didn't realize I got that one. Didn't get any engine codes but only lasted a year and a half. 46024 I believe is the part number. I also replaced the water pump then too .
Mooseman
Moderator
The 46024 is the EV style clutch. I usually steer clear of Four Seizin'. The Hayden thermal is good except for cold engagement that @Mike534x mentioned, which frees up after a couple of minutes.
I've used Limeswap and he's excellent. You can also get other stuff tuned at the same time. Only thing though is that you have to send your PCM in to him so your truck will be down while it's out unless you get a loaner but will incur extra shipping charges. You can discuss this with him.
www.lime-swap.com
I've used Limeswap and he's excellent. You can also get other stuff tuned at the same time. Only thing though is that you have to send your PCM in to him so your truck will be down while it's out unless you get a loaner but will incur extra shipping charges. You can discuss this with him.
Performance Tuning | Lime Swap
Performance tuning specializing in GM Vortec Inline engines. Almost all GM vehicles supported.
www.lime-swap.com
Just ordered the new water pump and fan clutch combo from rockauto. My question is which water pump gasket is better the flat fibre or the metal one with the protrusion? Do I really need to use rtv?
Mooseman
Moderator
Any particular brand? Can't find an ac Delco one anywhere and the mahle brand was rated horrible because of dripping on start-up. Maybe they didn't torque it down right?
Mooseman
Moderator
ACDelco 252822 is available on RA and Amazon.com. I never had much luck with the other aftermarkets. I already have an ACDelco waiting for when the original pump fails.
Mooseman
Moderator
Ok. Weird question but, just got my clutch/water pump today and not going to be able to install it until the next somewhat warmer day. Anyway there are some confusing storage instructions. Opted for the electric clutch cause it was cheaper. Anyone familiar with a certain way to store these until installation? I'm assuming they want it stored vertical?
Attachments
Also the shaft on the new clutch is hard to turn, is that normal? Also called for sealant on the flimsy sheet metal gasket that came with it. Waiting for the Ac Delco one I ordered. Metal ridged gaskets don't need sealer right? Need to drive it as soon as it's put back together ?
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Mooseman
Moderator
Those Chinglish (or Koglish?) instructions don't bode well for the quality of this piece.
Keeping it in its installed position vertically should be safe but historically with the thermal type, instructions advised to keep it face down/shaft up.
I would not be worried about it being stiff as the silicone fluid is probably all pooled up in the clutch and not the reservoir. Once it has been run, it should stabilize and have the fluid go into the reservoir. However, it may still go back into the clutch portion at rest and be engaged at startup until it frees up again. This has been reported by others using cheaper clutches.
The new properly ridged aluminum seal should not require sealant. You will see with the original that there is no sealant. HOWEVER, if you want to feel better and be sure it won't leak, you could use a thin layer of an anaerobic sealant on both sides of the gasket, not RTV. This may add some extra work the next time you may have to replace the pump.
Keeping it in its installed position vertically should be safe but historically with the thermal type, instructions advised to keep it face down/shaft up.
I would not be worried about it being stiff as the silicone fluid is probably all pooled up in the clutch and not the reservoir. Once it has been run, it should stabilize and have the fluid go into the reservoir. However, it may still go back into the clutch portion at rest and be engaged at startup until it frees up again. This has been reported by others using cheaper clutches.
The new properly ridged aluminum seal should not require sealant. You will see with the original that there is no sealant. HOWEVER, if you want to feel better and be sure it won't leak, you could use a thin layer of an anaerobic sealant on both sides of the gasket, not RTV. This may add some extra work the next time you may have to replace the pump.
Ok, thanks for all the help. One more thing, which side of the bead protrusion side of the gasket face? Bead side toward the water pump or facing the engine?
Just did this water pump replacement two months ago. GM OEM p/n 2512029 metal gasket is available at rockauto and was delivered in great (flat) condition. Glad I ordered it separate because the gasket that came with the water pump was all bent up.
Used a star pattern when tightening bolts and was ready to go without rtv less than 1 hour after install with no leaks. I noted which side the bead was on the original part when removed and used the same orientation (it's hard to tell because the bead gets almost flat over the years but possible).
I also used trick of leaving one raised bolt on the fan clutch when removing and installing the water pump to allow extra play/clearance without removing the shroud.
Hope this helps.
Mooseman
Moderator
It should go only one way as the pattern won't allow installing it any other way.