When I pull up the ebrake handle, nothing engages. Anyone have an idea what needs to be done? New cable? I bought ebrake shoes but haven't installed yet.
Ebrake not engaging
- Thread starter diablo2184
- Start date
Decembersend
Member
- Dec 3, 2011
- 316
When I got my 06 Denali, the E-brake did not work either. The handle went all the way up, no resistance, no E-brake. It’s not a super complicated system. Not really a huge deal. I figured it could be the cable, E-brake shoes or some kind of adjustment problem. There are lots of really bad mechanics out there.
My truck had new brake rotors and pads all around and they worked just fine. Whoever did the brakes had obviously messed up the E-brake (or failed to fix it). These are old school rear disk units with a small drum machined inside the rear disk for the E-brake. It uses separate horseshoe shaped E-Brake shoes with brake linings bonded to a metal frame. Newer 4 wheel disc brake cars typically use an updated rear caliper design with a screw based piston and a mechanical arm for actuating the E-brake (no separate E-brake shoes).
I pulled the rear wheels and took a look. The answer was obvious in 5 seconds. One of the E-brake shoes was totally missing its lining. It was just the horseshoe shaped metal frame. Where did the lining go – I have no idea there was no sign of it. So with the lining missing on one side, there was no way to adjust the thing. Good thing they did not try. You definitely don’t want the metal frame hitting the drum anyway.
So I replaced the E-brake shoes with a new set and adjusted them and the E-brake is working again. It took a few iterations to adjust the things and get them grabbing in the normal range for the E-brake handle. Wheels go on, test the E-brake handle (it will probably go all the way up without grabbing), wheels come off, adjust the E-brake pad clearance … repeat. It’s a bit of a pain.
Be careful not to let too much slack into the E-brake cable (don’t go yanking on the E-brake handle with the E-brake cables not attached to the E-brake linkage at the rear brakes). The two rear cables can slip out of the metal clip - where they attach to the single cable going to the E-brake handle (inside the truck). If this happens, you will probably have to remove the console to get in there to re-attach those little barrels on the cable ends to the clip. Again, not a super complicated system. Just a little annoying to adjust.
My truck had new brake rotors and pads all around and they worked just fine. Whoever did the brakes had obviously messed up the E-brake (or failed to fix it). These are old school rear disk units with a small drum machined inside the rear disk for the E-brake. It uses separate horseshoe shaped E-Brake shoes with brake linings bonded to a metal frame. Newer 4 wheel disc brake cars typically use an updated rear caliper design with a screw based piston and a mechanical arm for actuating the E-brake (no separate E-brake shoes).
I pulled the rear wheels and took a look. The answer was obvious in 5 seconds. One of the E-brake shoes was totally missing its lining. It was just the horseshoe shaped metal frame. Where did the lining go – I have no idea there was no sign of it. So with the lining missing on one side, there was no way to adjust the thing. Good thing they did not try. You definitely don’t want the metal frame hitting the drum anyway.
So I replaced the E-brake shoes with a new set and adjusted them and the E-brake is working again. It took a few iterations to adjust the things and get them grabbing in the normal range for the E-brake handle. Wheels go on, test the E-brake handle (it will probably go all the way up without grabbing), wheels come off, adjust the E-brake pad clearance … repeat. It’s a bit of a pain.
Be careful not to let too much slack into the E-brake cable (don’t go yanking on the E-brake handle with the E-brake cables not attached to the E-brake linkage at the rear brakes). The two rear cables can slip out of the metal clip - where they attach to the single cable going to the E-brake handle (inside the truck). If this happens, you will probably have to remove the console to get in there to re-attach those little barrels on the cable ends to the clip. Again, not a super complicated system. Just a little annoying to adjust.
