Ebrake completely stuck where rotors wont come off, help!

Benson86

Original poster
Member
Mar 15, 2020
12
Clearwater FL
Hi all, recently inhertied a Saab 9-7X im in the process of trying to make road worthy. It had been sitting 6 months or so but was working fine when parked. The ebrakes are completely frozen. It will barely move and had to have it trailered home. When you try to lift the ebrake handle there is a ton of tension like its already on and can barely lift it. I tried just about everything to the point of actually cutting the ebrake line and removing it since they are cheap to replace, and nothing. The little metal piece behind the rotor that is supposed to pivot is completely frozen. The rotors wont come off at all, I even tried the bolts that are supposed to force the rotors off and they are so bound up that the threads on the rotors started to strip before they would come all the way off. The previous owner used to use this to put a jet ski in the water so I have a strong suspicion rust is at play here somewhere.

I don't really know what to do next at this point, any ideas? Thanks!
 

Chemman

Member
Jul 13, 2013
35
Maryland
You could try renting a large 3 jaw puller and pull the drum off that way. I had to do that on another vehicle and it worked quite well.
 
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Brian K

Member
Apr 5, 2012
32
And if the e-brakes are that badly rusted on, the rotor is probably rusty and shot too. Probably a good idea to get new rotors and pads and go to town with a BFH.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Could also be rusted on in the center hub. The three jaw puller might work but don't be standing in front of it as it can sometimes let go violently.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Only way I got my rear rotor off once when my ebrake cable seized was with a big hammer and a sore arm from beating on it to break it free. Destroyed the e brake shoes but whatever it wasn't going back together at that point anyway.
 
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budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,027
kanata
"heat and beat".... get a propane torch and heat red hot around the hub on the rotor.... in essence making the hole bigger. The heat will also help with the brake drum. Then beat and repeat. The ebrake are just like any other shoe brakes and are held in place with very little mount hardware so once the center hub area has been "disrupted", you will likely be successful in the removal. Depending on your persistence, you can also try locating the mounting pins / fingers for the ebrake show springs and perhaps bend or break these off to aid with removal.
 
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Benson86

Original poster
Member
Mar 15, 2020
12
Clearwater FL
Status update, got them off! I was able to get a hold of a 3 claw puller and rip the thing off. It was the ebrake shoes simply stuck on. Over all I think the important bits are in good shape. Im exapecting that ill need new ebrake shoes and new rotors/pads but other than that should be good im hoping. See the pics after I cleaned up the hub, what do you guys think?
 

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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Those rotors are rusty as hell. I suspect it was parked for quite a while and everything rust welded. If all the parking brake actuators (pusher cylinders) are good, it should be fine with all new parts. Check the lower shoe clip to be sure it's still there and not all bent out of shape. It should hold the shoe properly against the backing plate.
 
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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
7,639
Tampa Bay Area
If it helps... The BEST Emergency Brakes Hardware Kit for this R&R comes from ACDelco and requires using Permatex Orange Thread Locker. The BEST E-Brake Drum Kit comes from Raybestos and requires Lithium Grease to lubricate the E-Brake Lever Adjustment Screws-Plugs Hardware. The images at this link show what all of this gear should look like after the Rear Axle E-Brake Bracket gets thoroughly cleaned up everything else is installed:

 
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