DRL Eliminator

Short Bus

Short Bus

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Joined
Dec 2, 2011
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It's not my idea and I don't have it (yet) but I know people will be looking for this. I just did a quote from the OS

MrSmithsTB said:
Here are the images. Done by jetttstream and someone on the "other" site.

As opposed to using the power and ground source on the relay, you are supposed to cut and splice A5 on the grey harness. If you guy want a write up with pictures on the actual work, I'll do one and snap some shots, as long as I can get it stickied or have it put in the how to section in less than a year:laugh:

Lancematic DRL "Eliminator" with auto headlamp
lancematic.jpg


Quad Beam lamps
ChecoQuad.jpg
Click to expand...
 
Should help some people.
 
I'm too afraid to dig into mine, i had a stereo shop do mine and i lost my auto lights but the drls are def dead, i wish i had the auto lights though:frown:
 
Good deal. I was just thinking we needed a write up on this.
 
Blckshdw said:
I was just thinking we needed a write up on this.
Click to expand...

We are working on it.:cool:
 
MAY03LT said:
We are working on it.:cool:
Click to expand...

Yay! :wootwoot:

:offtopic: How about a request for a remote starter install?
 
sharksta said:
is the relay just a normal one I can pick up at an autostore?
Click to expand...

Yes, it's your standard 4 or 5 pin relay.
 
I'll have to make sure that Stef understands how this DRL killing thing actually works...
I can't have him installing my HIDs and then having them burn out within a few weeks... :nono:
That would NOT be cool...

Retaining the auto-on headlights is a must... :eyebrowhuh:
 
Bub said:
I'm too afraid to dig into mine, i had a stereo shop do mine and i lost my auto lights but the drls are def dead, i wish i had the auto lights though:frown:
Click to expand...

CdnGMan said:
I'll have to make sure that Stef understands how this DRL killing thing actually works...
I can't have him installing my HIDs and then having them burn out within a few weeks... :nono:
That would NOT be cool...

Retaining the auto-on headlights is a must... :eyebrowhuh:
Click to expand...

i have the DRL killer from member TBlazed.. and i DID NOT lose my auto headlights... not sure if its something different in the wiring of the relays.. by my brother (JosueLT), our best friend (cliffordhenline on TV), and myself all have DRL Killers and not one of us lost auto headlights.. front perimeter lighting yes.. but not auto headlights...
 
This is simply a DIY alternative to the old TBlazed module. Retention of auto lights, and addition quad beams. I did this years ago and has worked perfectly ever since. I am even completely dismantling my work just so I can document it for everyone when I reassemble it all..
 
DMD_TB said:
is the purpose of this just to save your lights from burning out?
Click to expand...

this is for those of us who have HID's... DRL's function at 70% power...and HID's require 100% power to function properly... so with the constant DRL's, it shortens the life of the ballasts on the HID's..

i've read that some do the DRL killer to also save the factory wire harness, as they burn out frequently due to the thin gauged wiring..
 
Boricua SS said:
this is for those of us who have HID's... DRL's function at 70% power...and HID's require 100% power to function properly... so with the constant DRL's, it shortens the life of the ballasts on the HID's..

i've read that some do the DRL killer to also save the factory wire harness, as they burn out frequently due to the thin gauged wiring..
Click to expand...

Ahhh! ok i gotcha, i will be taking that into consideration if i ever get around to HID's, got my Quads done finally
 
I actually need a DRL killer for my truck!
 
Boricua SS said:
i have the DRL killer from member TBlazed.. and i DID NOT lose my auto headlights... not sure if its something different in the wiring of the relays.. by my brother (JosueLT), our best friend (cliffordhenline on TV), and myself all have DRL Killers and not one of us lost auto headlights.. front perimeter lighting yes.. but not auto headlights...
Click to expand...



Mine is a relay like that the op posted, i am just unsure of the wiring i think i will take a look at it who knows maybe its a crossed wire or something...
 
So today I tackled the relay.

EB5E14E2-orig.jpg


The dlr kill worked, but I must have messed up the quad beam because if I pull the high beam leaver towards me the high beam and lows are both on (which is normal), but if I push it forward nothing happens. Then the truck seems to freak out, a security light comes up on the dash and then -----unknown driver----- is displayed.

I followed these instructions:
1. on the tan plug cut f10 in half (solid green wire)
2. strip back about an inch of e4 (the solid yellow wire) and seperate the strands of wire with the razor
3. strip about 1 inch of the green wire that you cut in half in the first step(the side of the wire on the harness not the side with the bcm plug), insert this wire into the yellow wire twist around tightly and solder and tape up or just tape it up, again up to you!
4. tape up the end of the green wire that is connected to the tan bcm plug, now you are finished



Are they correct?
 
I did notice there was about three of the same green wires, but I lined one of them up to the number 10 and assumed it was f.

With the yellow, I only really saw one yellow, but it was on the same line as the green one so im guessing that's where I went wrong? Because it says e4 and I probably did f4 or something.
 
I did the other drl killer mod and it worked as it claimed but I lost the auto light on feature even at night. Will this mod retain the auto on feature?


Thanks,
Kevin
 
IAFF78 said:
I did the other drl killer mod and it worked as it claimed but I lost the auto light on feature even at night. Will this mod retain the auto on feature?


Thanks,
Kevin
Click to expand...

Yes, this method will retain the auto headlamp feature. :thumbsup: This is the one I have in my truck.
 
Guess ill have to get to re wiring. I'm not to verse in electronic wiring but this.drawing looks straight forward. When the pic says to bcm that means the wire the plugs into the plug and when it says in harness that means the wire that runs back into the truck?

Thanks,
Kevin
 
IAFF78 said:
When the pic says to bcm that means the wire the plugs into the plug and when it says in harness that means the wire that runs back into the truck?
Click to expand...

Correct.
 
So here is what I figured for the pins

A5- grey plug
B6-grey plug
E7-tan plug
Is this correct??
 
IAFF78 said:
So here is what I figured for the pins

A5- grey plug
B6-grey plug
E7-tan plug
Is this correct??
Click to expand...

That is how mine is wired.:yes:

IIRC, this is what the relay control circuits did when tested in mine.
The white wire will go to 12v with the key in the run position.
The pink wire will go to ground when the little green led in headlight switch is on.
 
Got it all wired up to what the diagram says. When I fire up my truck I have no head lights. But, when I turn the head light knob all the way to the right, I hear a click from the relay but my lights don't come on. What did I do wrong?
 
Here's what I have...
Pink wire from tan plug to 85
Pink white wire from truck harness to 30
Pink white wire from grey plug to 87
White wire from grey plug to 86

Am I correct? The pink wire along with the white wire was spliced using wire taps. The pink/white wire was cut and both ends were soldered to their respective wires.
 
IAFF78 said:
when I turn the head light knob all the way to the right, I hear a click from the relay but my lights don't come on.
Click to expand...

With the key on, headlight switch on, and relay clicked (and relay plugged in), I would check for ground at pins 30 and 87 next.
 
IAFF78 said:
I don't have a tester. I have the bare minimum of tools.
Click to expand...

Darn. Well, let's review what we have.

The relay clicks with the headlight switch on. This tells me that 85 and 86 are wired correctly.

When the relay clicks, it is basically reconnecting the cut that was made in the pink/white wire.

So, either there is no ground from the bcm side (87), or no ground through the relay to the harness side (30).

Another possibility would be that you're using a 5 pin relay and 87 is actually hooked up to 87A. I'm sure you triple checked this but I had to throw it out there.
 
IAFF78 said:
I don't have a tester. I have the bare minimum of tools.
Click to expand...

You should get one, it will help with a lot of simple troubleshooting. And also keep you from getting swatted by Roadie with a rolled up newspaper :wink:

**$3 clicky**
 
It's a 4 pin relay. What I found was the wire taps is used never dug through the shield to the wire. So I just spliced the wires together, soldered them then taped them.
 
IAFF78 said:
It's a 4 pin relay. What I found was the wire taps is used never dug through the shield to the wire. So I just spliced the wires together, soldered them then taped them.
Click to expand...

thats exactly why i never use those wire taps anymore... had a similar issue waaay back in the day... and neeverr again will i resort to wire taps...

so since you soldered and taped, how are things working out?
 
Lights work when I turn the switch to the right. When I started up my truck and had the switch in the auto on position, the lights still came on. No clue why.
 
IAFF78 said:
Lights work when I turn the switch to the right. When I started up my truck and had the switch in the auto on position, the lights still came on. No clue why.
Click to expand...

Is the sensor on the dash in a bit of shade? Sometimes that's all it takes to make the auto lights come on.
 
:iagree:

or i was gonna say if your working on things in your garage.. everytime im in my garage the auto headlights kick on...
 
That's what I was thinking. Its in my garage and there's one normal sized window and little Windows on the back door. Once halftime starts ill run out and check.
 
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