Does anyone have the Sonnax reamer and fixture?

[JayArr]

Has anyone purchased the Sonnax TCC reamer and alignment fixture for the 4L60E? Total cost looks like it's around $275-300US for both.

I'd like to ream out the TCC bore and repair it with the sleeve so that it will continue to operate as a PWM valve. I've got two transmissions, one I'll rebuild now and after I swap it in I'll rebuild the other for sale.

It seems like a lot to spend to do valve bodies but still cheaper than buying rebuilts from Roack Auto. To try to reduce the cost further I'm looking for someone who wants to sell them used if possible, this could be a good opportunity for someone to unload a tool that they aren't going to ever use again and get some of their investment back. (I'll probably do the same when I'm done.

Looking for the VB-FIX alignment fixture and the 77754-R2 reamer.

 

[Reprise]

I don't have the reamer (most of us used the TransGo kit, which doesn't ream / sleeve the TCC bore.)

Although the Sonnax ream / sleeve is supposed to be the better fix, the tool is $$$, as you've seen.
If you have a local transmission shop, you could see if they would do it for a fee. Sonnax sells sleeves in bulk, so once a shop has the tool, it's a matter of just buying more sleeves once they need them.

I don't know of anyone on this site who has that kit. But I won't say there 'definitely isn't'.

 

[mrrsm]

eBay carries both the Individual Sonnax 77754-R2 TCC Regulator Valve Reamer for $98.00 with Free S&H ...and/or the Complete Fixture Kit for a Much Higher Dollar Amount:



But my guess is that you could also try using a Block of Aluminum to create your own Holding Fixture on a Drill Press and use the proper length Metric Fasteners to secure it to the base and cautiously achieve the same results while boring out those channels:

Electronics, Cars, Fashion, Collectibles & More | eBay

Buy & sell electronics, cars, clothes, collectibles & more on eBay, the world's online marketplace. Top brands, low prices & free shipping on many items.

rover.ebay.com

 

[mrrsm]

FWIW ....If you check out THIS Video... You'll see that this Dude is almost "Free-Handing" the Drill Out Procedures using JUST the eBay Sonnax 77754-R2 Drill, a Clamp to hold the Valve Body on the Bench and a Handy Speed Wrench... sans the Expensive Sonnax Bench Fixture:

For anyone interested in WHY this Modification needs to be done, View this Part 2 from a 4L60E Re-Build Training Video from about 9:07 forward to get a closer look at the Hardware of the Valve Body, Which Sonnax Kit should be Used, How to remove the Old Valve Assembly, How to use the Sonnax Reamer BY HAND and finally, How to Install the Updated Valve Kit:

 

[Sparky]

Any particular reason you want to keep it PWM operated? I've used the Transgo PWM disable method so it is just on or off with excellent results every time, and it is cheaper and easier. Just feels like a "5th gear" so to speak when TCC lock is engaged.

 

[Mooseman]

This is another method of eliminating the PWM. I haven't tried it but looks legit and it's free.

No good reason to keep PWM unless it's for grandma.

 

[JayArr]

I don't like eliminating features when they fail. I'm an engineer by trade so there is something about that that feels lazy to me. It's a downhill trend that results in a machine that is less than it was designed to be. If others want to do it that way then they can go for it, I don't want to preach to anyone that this is the "proper" way or anything, I don't own their car, they can do whatever they like with it. This is just how I like to work on my machines. Please, members, don't respond telling me why you feel it's OK to eliminate the PWM function. I started this thread to discuss tech details not hash out opinions.

The PWM is so you don't feel the lockup and I don't want to feel the lockup. My wife gets groceries with this vehicle and drives the dogs around town. I don't want it to feel like a truck. So I've decided to use the Sonnax sleeve and repair it so that the feature is back into operation.

I downloaded the instruction sheet for the TCC sleeve kit and found something interesting. There are two sets of reamers you can use to bore out the cylinder and there are two different methods of reaming. There is what's called the "Bench Ream" and there is the fixture ream.

BENCH REAM:

Use a loose-fitting reamer socket and a wobble adapter to ream the bore. The reamer can
be turned by using a speed handle or with a low-RPM, high-torque drill regulated to a
maximum of 200 RPM. The reaming actions must be clockwise in smooth and continuous
motion at 60-200 RPM. Continue reaming until the reamer stop is reached.

The instructions also indicate that any Sonnax reamer who's part number starts with F- is for use with the VB-FIX fixture and that part numbers without the F- are for use with the bench ream procedure.

So I think I'll just buy the 77754-R2 and the 77754-RM5 and the kit with the sleeves and I should be back to factory operation without having to shell out big $$ for the fixture.

 

[Mooseman]

No problem here if that's what you want. I like craft beer, others like Bud. No judgement here. We were all just putting forward suggestions.

Would actually make a good article for those who do want to fix the PWM TCC.

 

[JayArr]

I'll try to document the procedure as I go. I've found lots of stuff on the PWM eliminate solution but less on this Sonnax kit.

It appears that there are actually two sleeves available for this, the isolator sleeve goes in first and is pushed to the back of the bore to prevent leaks from a worn isolator valve. The other sleeve is for wear on the regulator valve and goes in second and is biased to the front of the bore. Each is held in place by a clip. The literature says that the sleeves are high grade aluminum to resist future wear so I'm hoping I only have to do this once and it's not a case of having to replace the sleeves every ten years.

Edit: I don't mean to sound too cranky about the PWM delete but I've experienced how quickly threads can go sideways. I'd like this thread to stay on the topic of how to repair a valve body with the Sonnax kits and tools.

 

[mrrsm]

"Would actually make a Good Article for those who do want to fix the PWM TCC."

 

[JayArr]

Just pulled the trigger and bought the tools and parts to do this. $330USD with freight from Buffalo Engine. Includes the reamers for both the Isolator valve and the Regulator sleeve and I bought two of each sleeve.

This is a lot for tools I may only use twice but a sonnax rebuilt valve body is over $200US so this way I save $70US on two and I own the tools.

 

[Reprise]

(To anyone: ) How many late-model vehicles with the 4L60e have PWM-controlled TCC?

The reason I ask -- If the OP were interested, he could start up a side hustle with VB repair / modification.
If he'd been around here a while back, he might have had a steady stream of clients, for example. A couple of years ago, we were fielding multiple questions a week (sometimes per day) about trans issues that were fixable via VB modification.

 

[JayArr]

I'd be happy to help anyone who can't find a local shop to do this. It might be a good idea for me to do my two VBs first to get the hang of it. LOL

 

[Mooseman]

According to this, modulated TCC's started in 1991:

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjUuLy1447sAhUGG80KHazCBAoQFjACegQIBBAB&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.transtar1.com%2FTranstarIndustries%2Fmedia%2FTranstar1%2Ftechnical%2Fbulletins%2FTLT-TC-035.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1mD8UOS2tJJAEncVWRy8WQ

That document does acknowledge that slipping TCC's does create more heat and wear on the TCC clutch material.

 

[JayArr]

The reamers and inserts arrived today, good looking tools. I'm going to need a bunch of other specialty tools as well so I'll go into collector mode and try to gather everything I need before I start.

I snagged a transmission teardown table from a local supply house. They had them on clearance marked down from $300Cdn to $199Cdn and because of Covid they were waiving all shipping charges so I saved another $65 there. $223 taxes and delivery included. It's not as sturdy as the Eastwood one but I'm a weekend warrior and I own a mig welder if I feel the need to beef it up.

 

[JayArr]

The table arrived last week and is all assembled. It's the bomb! Sturdy as all hell, useful for all kinds of work, just about the right height, easy to roll on the rubberized casters and locks up solid when you put the caster flaps down. I haven't put the transmission up on it yet but I've been using it for other stuff.

ATTN Canadian members:

There are still 4 available and they are still on clearance sale for $199 CDN. Shipping is free for orders over $100 so you're all in for $223.70CDN. This is a helluva good workbench for this price.

 

[Mooseman]

ATTN Canadian members:

There are still 4 available and they are still on clearance sale for $199 CDN. Shipping is free for orders over $100 so you're all in for $223.70CDN. This is a helluva good workbench for this price.

Where? Although I'm not in the market for one, just in case someone might be interested.

Is it this one?

550 lb Tear Down Table with Drain | Princess Auto

550 lb Tear Down Table with Drain

www.princessauto.com

It's on clearance so snag it while you can. Once they're gone, they're gone.

I got this one when it was on sale for $99 a few weeks back for my future garage. Says it's for cutting up game but I think stainless is better for longevity when tearing down stuff. Also good to 550#

550 lb Stainless-Steel Table | Princess Auto

550 lb Stainless-Steel Table

www.princessauto.com

 

[JayArr]

Yep, the blue one is the one I bought, thanks Mooseman, I thought I had included the link.