Do you use torque limiting extensions, or sticks?

Beacon

Original poster
Member
Mar 22, 2019
445
SouthWestern PA
I've come to the conclusion that I can no longer trust my "feel" for what is appropriate lug nut torque, using just a breaker bar. Too many years away from using a torque wrench weekly has ruined my muscle memory. I am way over tightening lugs. Yes, I could just get out a torque wrench, but for whatever reason, it seems like that wrench, is for special occasions, not lug nuts. So...

I am looking to buy a set torque limiting extensions, or possibly torque sticks. But I'm not sure what brands are good.
I feel like I can trust snap-on, although they are quite pricey and then don't seem to offer the variety other brands do, either in sets or singles.
Matco seems to have what I want, but I really think they are rebranded, and I think the brand is Neiko.
Capri had decent looking set, but again, I'm unfamiliar with the brand, other than they a have a nice work light that I want. and I don't think i could trust Pittsburgh Tool, I would end up double checking them with a torque wrench, so what would be the point?
As far as torque sticks... I'd rather have the extensions, and the versatility. Convince me otherwise.
As always, solid feedback, based on real life experience is welcomed, or even 2 cents, of solid reasoning. If your still reading, sorry for the long post, just letting you know where I'm at currently.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I have torque sticks to use woth my impact and they were always within a couple ft lb of my torque wrench. I stopped using them when I switched to aftermarket wheels with keyed lugs as the key is not impact friendly and I don't know if the torque stick would reduce the hits enough for it or not. I just use my torque wrench on my lugs now (ironically that is its primary job lol).

I think the brand I have is Neiko or Tekton.

Torque sticks won't precent overtorque by hand wrenches I don't think. They are designed to be used with an impact.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I don't have them but I remembered seeing this video a while back. Good info.

 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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During training for A&P Quality USCG Aviation Machinist's Mate School back in 1970... every Enlisted Student Trainee in my Class had to use "Common Tools" and demonstrate what their personal impressions were when applying "Guess Torque" on a whole array of large and small Fasteners, Nuts and Bolts to stress their level of "Intuitive Mechanical Skill". The universal results were that EVERY ONE of us Over-Tightened ALL of those Fasteners; some ...by more than 50%.

The point of the exercise being that there simply could not be any 'fudge factor' allowed when working on Heavier-Than-Air Craft... with the Caveat that unlike other services... WE would be flying in those same Helicopters and HC-130 Airplanes as Crew-Members doing double duty...unlike Aviation Specialists in other branches of the Service... if nothing else, this was meant to become an 'Extra Incentive' NOT to freelance or fail to follow the directions beyond the Instructions and R&R Steps within each of the Sikorsky HH-3F Service Manuals.

In each and every GM OEM Factory Service Manual... there is a section nearby the Fluid Level listings that shows the Torque Chart for Lug Nut Fasteners that deserves close attention. In the first instance, this is to ensure that they are NOT left UNDER-Torqued. In the second instance... it is critical to avoid tightening or torqueing down the Lug Nuts SO HARD as to cause the very Cast Iron Metal of the Hub Casings to Warp and Distort under these extremes of concentrated pressure. Thus, Over-Torqued Nuts on Studs can shorten Wheel Bearing Life and cause problems with ABS Wheel Sensors mis-reading with the nuisance of the ABS Light coming on. Your OEM Owner's Manual is your Best Friend here...

 
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littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
I mean I just go by feel with the impact. I've checked it with the wrench dozens of times and it ends up being within the accuracy window of the damn thing so I kind of just stopped bothering. We did fatigue testing on fasteners for school and you'd really have to gorilla the damn things and torque them really unevenly to get a hub centric wheel to warp a rotor or snap a stud.

Now that being said, don't be like me and use the sticks, we use them on the testing equipment for aviation wheels. The lugs on that thing are the size of out axle nuts but the hub has a load sensor and roller bearing in it that is calibrated to a specific torque setting and the torque sticks are specified as an alternative by the army so... I trust them.
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I mean I just go by feel with the impact. I've checked it with the wrench dozens of times and it ends up being within the accuracy window of the damn thing so I kind of just stopped bothering.

How were you checking them? For example, if you checked by putting the torque wrench to the desired value and it clicks, that just means it's at least that tight. If it's higher than the torque setting, you wouldn't know. If you used a beam type torque wrench and pushed until the nut started moving again and then read it, that would be a valid test. Or increasing the torque wrench setting until it also started moving again.

After having a few incidents of lug nuts getting loose, I don't risk it anymore.
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
How were you checking them? For example, if you checked by putting the torque wrench to the desired value and it clicks, that just means it's at least that tight. If it's higher than the torque setting, you wouldn't know. If you used a beam type torque wrench and pushed until the nut started moving again and then read it, that would be a valid test. Or increasing the torque wrench setting until it also started moving again.

After having a few incidents of lug nuts getting loose, I don't risk it anymore.
I start about 10 lbs under spec on a clicker and go up by 1 until it stops. Usually within 2 or 3 of the spec one way or another. :tiphat:

You can imagine now why I stopped. I also don't run the gun full rip... I have had to snap studs by doing that for replacement.
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
I think the ones we have at work are either kobalt or husky. They're the only approved tool vendors we have. They all should work reasonably well though, not exactly something that's hard to design.
 
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