DIY rebuild of Air Compressor Check Valve - 0$

Instrumental

Original poster
Member
Jan 29, 2012
268
I found that my air bags were not inflating when my compressor ran. I confirmed that the compressor still had pressure by using the aux hose and running using the switch to activate it.

Further research (thanks GMTNation) showed that the likely culprit was the check valve in the system no longer functioning, to which there is a rebuild kit. Part # 1518-3676 It's about $35. I found a description on another site about a method to refurbish the existing parts, so I thought I'd give that a go. So far so good, so here's my procedure.

Pull the fuse for the air suspension system. Mine was #1 under the hood.
Jack up the rear end and remove the passenger tire.
Two 13mm bolts hold the compressor to the frame rail. You need to lift up to remove it, it's got a couple of tabs that lock in to the top of the frame rail.
Remove the two hoses that connect to the left and right air bags - can't remember the wrench size but it was small. You shouldn't need to remove the other connections - you should have this by now.



The really rusty access panel on the outside of the pump takes a Torx 25 bit to open up - 2 screws. I took brake cleaner and sprayed it down before opening it up - try to keep dirt out. You'll find these parts inside.



The imprinted circle in the rubber piece is the culprit. I used 400 grit sand paper on a flat surface to rub it back to a smooth clean surface. I also used a wire wheel on the access panel to get it clean, the inner surface in particular.



I then used silicone spray to clean everything up, the gasket as well. You can see that now the rubber piece is smooth, and the gasket has resumed a better shape.



I used a bit of silicone grease on the surface of the rubber piece and the gasket before reassembling. I also used a wire brush gently on the pump body to try and clean off at least the worst of the corrosion. I gave it a good shot with brake cleaner and then the silicone spray to clean out any dirt that may have made its way inside. Here's the before picture, no after.



I put it back together, put the fuse in and fired it up. The pump ran for about 20 seconds with no change, just like it had been before. I think to myself this isn't a good thing, because now I've let ALL the air out of the bags and I'm on the bump stops. I shut it off and fired again, this time it ran for longer and started to lift the back end. I stopped it after a bit and let the pump cool before starting again and letting it finish. I think the first time it had to fill the bags from zero, and like before sensed no change and shut off. The second time enough pressure was built up that it started to move and therefore finished the job.

So far I've run it a few times and it's run at startup for a few minutes each time. I'm hoping I got the air lines back in tight, if I think it's leaking it won't take too long to pop it off and snug those down. I didn't want to overdue it.
 

Bow_Tied

Member
Dec 21, 2014
453
London, ON
I know this is an old thread but I hope @Instrumental will check in. First, great post, thanks for the info.

In the pic of the disassembled parts, does the rubber poppet go in first with the spring going in between the poppet and the access plate? Did you treat the access plate to prevent corrosion recurring (paint/oil?)? Is your maintenance on this still holding? How many mile or km on your rig when you did this work?

Thanks!
 

Instrumental

Original poster
Member
Jan 29, 2012
268
Pretty sure the rubber piece went in first, spring against the plate. Other than the silicone, no other treatment.

I was definitely north of 100,000 miles when I did it, but I can't speak to the longevity of the repair. The pump in general bit the dust not long after, as a matter of fact I'm not entirely certain this repair worked or if I just knocked it back into function by working on it.

On the plus side, no cost to the repair.
 

Bow_Tied

Member
Dec 21, 2014
453
London, ON
Thanks for the prompt reply.

I'm at 90k miles and experiencing intermittent bleed down. Sometimes it'll totally deflate in a couple hours other times it's fine sitting for two days. I was speculating the check valve might sporadically not seating well. I'm going to do some leak testing also soon.

What ultimately failed with your compressor?
 

Instrumental

Original poster
Member
Jan 29, 2012
268
I went from low pressure, like 40psi, not enough to lift the rear end to good to go after the fix noted above. A number of months later, low psi and no fix worked this time. I spliced in a Schrader valve for a while to use my garage air compressor to fill until I installed a generic 12 volt compressor that I control manually. I did a writeup on it.
 
I very recently had new Arnott bags and Bilstein shocks installed (not by me) to my "Saggin Wagon". The air suspension seemed fine previous to my towing a small 5x8 dump trailer loaded with 1500 lbs max. Subsequently it started looking like a low rider.

I tried the check valve fix twice. My compressor reads 97 lbs through the schrader valve when I turn it on via the rear compartment. I've tried inflating the bags with the vehicle jacked up via the hitch and just sitting on its own after the check valve maintenance. When I release the jack it returns immediately to the saggin wagon position.

I've order the compressor repair kit mentioned on 6/25/21.

Is it reasonable to think my compressor is functional if it's putting out 97 lbs through the valve in back of the vehicle.

I made a brief attempt at soapy water in the driveway, but concluded I'd never be able to see what was happening at the fittings; and the bags themselves are new.

I'm 68 with 2 bad shoulders, knee replacements, and plenty of arthritis. My thin wallet has me looking for the do it yourself fix.

Thoughts?

TIA,
WishfulThinker
 

northcreek

Member
Jan 15, 2012
3,318
WNY
If you jack it up the sensors see it as being normal height and so the compressor should not run.
The compressor unit does more than pump air, it also does valving and most important is the stand alone brains of the system.
If it's not the sensors or bags it's the compressor that's bad most times. The check valve fix has limited success.
 
Does running the compressor manually from the switch in back when jacked fill the bags?
From your reply the answer seems to be NO.
Is this a result of the valving componentof the compressor?
Thanks for the reply
 

northcreek

Member
Jan 15, 2012
3,318
WNY
If you decide to replace your compressor, you should know that there are two types depending on your wheel base. The short WB is 113".
 

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