Welcome to GMT Nation...
Start by Performing some "Basics Tests":
Air:
If the Engine cannot develop sufficient Compressive Force to
SQUEEZE the Ingested Air & Fuel Vapor Mixture... then the Engine WILL Not Ignite the Mixture with enough Power to Run. So, Perform an Engine Compression Test as per THESE Instructions:
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Electrical Shorts:
Engine Harnesses that have been Chewed Through by Rodent Infestations under the hood can present with
WEIRD NO START and SUDDEN ENGINE STOP conditions that even Very Experienced Shop Mechanics may overlook.
Check the entire engine area for any signs of Mice Nesting, Feces Droppings and Dried Urine being present. If you find
ANYTHING like this... Cover your Face (N-95 Mask) & Hands (11mil Nitrile Gloves) with Protection from getting a HANTA Virus Infection from handling or cleaning up such things. Use a BRIGHT Flashlight to Locate any Damaged or Shorted Wiring and perform Solder & Sealing Wiring Repairs.
Be Very Fastidious.
Spark:
Next, ...Visit THIS Link and obtain a Can of Starting Fluid Spray:
Remove the Resonator Box and while someone Cranks Over the Motor using a
FULLY CHARGED BATTERY... Spray a
VERY SMALL AMOUNT of Starting Fluid into the Throttle Body Inlet. If the Engine briefly "Fires Up"...then you will have Eliminated most of the possible Electrical Problems from the actual Solution.
However, if you get NO SPARK Response... Remember that only One, Single Coil with a "Dead Short" on the GM LL8 4.2L Engine... is enough to PREVENT the Motor from Starting. Follow THESE Simple Procedures for Testing
ALL of the COPs:
GM 4.2L Index of Articles
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Fuel
Is the Fuel Tank EMPTY? Remember that the Fuel Gauge on the IPC can be
Wrong...and with Gas Prices being what they are, Fuel Thieves are always Out & About and WILL use Tactics like
Pouring Water into the Tank to Raise the Fuel Up High Enough to Suction Out Fuel. So... Don't Overlook the Obvious.
Next, Check for Fuel Pump Circuit Activity by having someone Turn the Ignition Key to the "ON" Position while you
LISTEN for the Fuel Pump to Prime for only 3-5 Seconds. Do this several times to
Confirm that the Ignition Switch is also NOT part of this Problem as long as the Pump tries to Prime after each Key Turning Event.
If the Fuel Pump Responds... move on to performing a Fuel Pressure Test (2002-2004 Chevrolet Trailblazer 4.2L) as per THIS Video:
...and for Later Model GMT360 SUVs with the "Return-less" Fuel Line Delivery to the Fuel Rail...
THIS Clever Dude came up with the means to Test the Fuel Pressure in this manner:
Engine Timing:
If the Crankshaft Sensor (CKP) has Failed or if the Camshaft Sensor (CMP) and the (CKP) cannot reconcile their positions with each other due to an Over Stretched Timing Chain... then the Fuel Air Spark Events will NOT be IN TIME with each other well enough to allow the Motor to RUN. Period. Check out THIS Topic for Testing the (CKP) Sensor... HERE:
GM 4.2L Index of Articles
easyautodiagnostics.com