deleting DOD

[mark'stb]

Picked up a 06 TBext last year with 183k on it and a 5.3. Check engine light came on and flashing and misfiring. Checked codes and have a p0171 and p0300. Tech 2 shows a constant misfire on cylinder #6. Changed wires and plugs today since I don't know when they were changed. #6 plug had a strong fuel smell. Changed #6 coil also. Anyways, it has developed a loud valve tap. I'm guessing a collasped dod lifter. Tomorrow I'll take off the rocker cover. This company makes a tool to free up the lifter without removing the head. https://www.crazedperformancerepair.com/ My question is if this does free up the lifter, will turning off dod with hptuners be a permanment fix for no more lifter collasping- assuming the lifters are good and have not rotated? Do I need to do anything else mechanically other than freeing up the lifter and use hptuners?

 

[northcreek]

You might want to check the little oil screen under the oil pressure sensor, I believe that filters the oil to the lifters and sometimes clogs. Some use a pick to pull it out, I used a easy out and twisted it out using the easy out in my fingers.

 

[mrrsm]

This is a (3) Part Video Series on a Complete DOD-Delete Procedure...From Tear Down--> To Re-Build-->- To Start Up.

Please... Do Heed this Warning:

Do NOT Attempt to use anything other than the Correct Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool Kit with a LONG Center Bolt capable of being threaded ALL The Way Down inside of the Nose of the Crankshaft. If you attempt to Go Cheap and try to use the OLD, USELESS GM OEM USED TTY Bolt...YOU WILL DEFINITELY WIND UP STRIPPING THE BOLT THREADS OUT FROM INSIDE OF THE CRANKSHAFT... Making an already Difficult Procedure ...even more so.

These Videos have Greater Value if Downloaded and Played at Low Speed to give you a Better Chance of looking over the Mechanic's Shoulder and "Practice The Procedures" well in advance of turning any Wrenches:

 

[Mooseman]

Take the valve cover off and check the rockers for #6. If one is loose, the lifter is stuck. That tool should work to release it BUT you must completely disable DOD. If the lifter and cam are basically OK, it should stay that way.

Don't know if you saw it but this video explains it:

 

[mrrsm]

... and if that (those) DOD Lifter(s) DO break loose... Liberally Spray some Berrymans B-12 Solvent down inside there to loosen up all the remaining Built-Up Gunk followed by Squirting some Motor Oil down in there to give them the chance to remain free long enough to 'exercise' them into becoming looser and looser as the Motor Warms Up and hopefully stay that way.

With the amount of Fuel that has by-passed and collected in the Crankcase after passing beyond the #6 Cylinder Piston Compression and Oiling Rings, Your Contaminated, Low Viscosity Old Motor Oil and Oil Filter WILL need changing anyway... so instead of using the usual amount of Mobil1 and installing New HQ Filter... First, Get a few Extra,(4) Cheap Oil Filters and a Case of CHEAP Organic Engine Oil along with 2-4 cans of Automatic Transmission Fluid.

Get rid of that Old Engine Oil and Old Oil Filter and install a Cheap, New One along with the OEM Specified Cheap Motor Oil.... but this time... Exchange (1) Quart of that Oil for (1) Quart of ATF. Then Start the Engine and allow it to IDLE ONLY for around 10 Minutes... WITHOUT PERFORMING ANY THROTTLE SNAPS OR RAPID RPM RAISING OR RACING OF THE ENGINE.

After you shut the Engine down... Allow the Engine to COOL DOWN COMPLETELY...so afterwards, you can PULL THE #6 SPARK PLUG and conduct a Dry Compression Test without Stripping the Spark Plug Threads. If the Compression seems nominal. Change the OIL/ATF-CHEAP OIL FILTER AGAIN and repeat this same "MIXTURE" TACTIC for a Second Round following the EXACT SAME PROCEDURES.

Again, after shutting down the Engine, ALLOW FOR A COMPLETE COOL DOWN PERIOD. Then Pull the #6 Spark Plug and Perform a 2nd Dry Compression level. If everything is Normal, perform another Oil Change using the Cheap Oil Filter and Cheap Motor Oil BUT WITHOUT USING THE ATF this time.

Drive the Vehicle Daily after that to accumulate around 300 Miles before performing a Final Post-Procedure Oil and Filter Change using Mobil1 and a K&N Oil Filter. If the Vehicle continues driving with Power and nominal performance after that... Note the Mileage and CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER EACH AND EVERY 3,000 MILES from then on.

 

[mark'stb]

Thanks for the replies. I mistyped yesterday. It is code P0174 not P0171. This came on all of a sudden and after the cel started flashing, I limped it home- about 15 miles and noticed a good valve tap noise. Today's project is to remove the right side rocker cover. I ordered the tool last night and see I'll see if it frees up the lifter. Not one of GM's better designs especially burying lifters under the cylinder heads. I have lots of experience going through LS and LT engines and have the tools needed to replace lifters. I'm trying not to pull the heads and if I do, I'll convert to a non dod cam and lifters. We have hp tuners at work and I'll buy the credits to do what is needed. Until I get the truck to work, I'll just unplug the brake switch.

 

[Mooseman]

If you want to try and not have to replace the cam and lifters, I wouldn't run it any more than you already have with the stuck lifter as the lifter is banging away on that cam lobe. If you do find a loose rocker and thus, a stuck lifter, unstick it with the tool and unplug the VLOM until you can get it to your shop and tune it out with HPTuners.

I don't like the guy's VLOM mod though. I replaced it with a regular valley cover, GM Part# 12598832 when I did my DOD delete. I got my info from this site and has since been updated to include the tool info to try and save the lifter before ripping the heads off. Very good info if you wind up having to do the full delete.

AFM Delete

These lifters fail internally due to a design flaw, not necessarily due to poor maintenance or dirt. Definitely not one of GM's finer moments.

 

[mark'stb]

Thanks Mooseman. Rocker cover off and #6 intake is loose. Next step to remove the intake manifold. If I retain the vlom, just unplug it? What about installing the plug under the oil pressure sensor to stop oil flow into the vlom? When you replaced the valley cover, did you plug the oil feed holes in the block or does the new cover seal them?

 

[mrrsm]

As per @northcreek ... While you have to Top of The Engine dismantled... Now would be a Good Time to replace the ordinarily hard to access Oil Pressure Sensor and in-dwelling Filter Screen, too.

 

[mark'stb]

Hopefully I am correct on my repair procedure. Hopefully the lifter releases using the tool in the video. Assuming it does, replace the vlom with the 8832 valley cover, using hptuners turn off all dod functions and codes. My goal here is to a: keep the current dod cam and lifters and disable by the cover and hptuners -and- b: not replace the cam and lifters with non dod cam and lifters. I do have a new set of non dod lifters out of a LS3 crate engine and for a camshafts, I have new LS6, LS2, LS3- although it is a single bolt cam and I'll need to find a 1x single bolt cam gear if they exist, and LS7. I may have more and I'll check tomorrow. My guess is the LS6 is the least radical cam. May not be the best choice but................

 

[Mooseman]

That replacement valley cover has seals for each of the DOD oil towers so no further sealing of anything is required. The screen will no longer be required either way. It is a good idea to replace the oil pressure sender now. AFAIK, I haven't heard of individual oil solenoids failing and letting oil through so you could keep the VLOM, without the screen, and just leave it unplugged but for the low cost of that cover, I would replace it, and it comes with the gasket.

 

[mark'stb]

Thanks. I looked up the part number and I may have one of them at work.

 

[TollKeeper]

If I retain the vlom, just unplug it? What about installing the plug under the oil pressure sensor to stop oil flow into the vlom? When you replaced the valley cover, did you plug the oil feed holes in the block or does the new cover seal them?

Depending on which one you order or want to do. Most just cut the gasket on the valley covers to be sure that if oil pressure does get by the VLOM or up the push rods/oil feeds, it just harmless sprays under the valley cover. Some people buy the replacement valley cover, which plugs oil feed holes.

I researched this system in depth. I just came to conclusion I am going to continue buying non-AFM/DOD 5.3/6.0 trucks. The system works great, and some systems never have problems. But being I am my own mechanic, and its hard for me to work on my own trucks anymore due to health, I am just not going to risk it.

 

[mrrsm]

@mark'stb... I realize that you'll be using HP Tuners at your Work Location... but if possible... could you do some Screen Print Captures of the various HPT Tabs and Features that you Modify and then Post a New Thread over in the HP Tuners Scan Tools Sub-Forum regarding the use of HP Tuners in this DOD Delete Application? Many who will follow this Thread in the future will be very grateful to you for taking this extra, instructive step.TIA.

 

[mark'stb]

I'm not familiar with tuning. It's one of my fellow techs who will be doing the actual tuning. I don't see a problem with it.

 

[mark'stb]

Well................ the tool may have worked. The lifter did release and won't lock in place and I can collapse it by pushing down on the pushrod. So it is now decision time. Pull 1 head and replace all the lifters on that side or change all the lifters and replace the cam.

 

[Mooseman]

I say leave it alone and tune DOD off. Or unplug the VLOM as a test for a while until tuned.

 

[mark'stb]

I say leave it alone and tune DOD off. Or unplug the VLOM as a test for a while until tuned.

That won't help. Lifter is collasped and will not lock in place. I'm going to do a dod delete with a new cam using either Texas Speed or Cam Motion kit.

 

[mrrsm]

Since you have access to HP Tuners and someone capable of using the Software... If you decide to add any Performance via the TSP Cam(s) while the Engine is apart... have a look at my "Hoping for Loping" Thread for Parts, Part Numbers etc. It will require a Minimum of Two HPT Credits to install an LS Tune for your ride.

I cannot think of a better time to consider doing this, assuming the expense seems worthwhile to you. If nobody ever looked in your direction after Starting your Vehicle...They Damned Sure Will after making these performance Mods and hearing all that New Horse Power rumbling in your Driveway:

"Hoping... For Loping..."

Almost as soon as I got my recently acquired 2000 Chevrolet Silverado parked out there in my driveway… I took the first opportunity to look over the engine compartment for the possibility of having more space to work around I than I was used to seeing with the 2002 TB. Then I had to do my...

gmtnation.com

 

[Mooseman]

Maybe it's not staying up because there is no oil pressure in it? How hard do you have to push on it to collapse it again? If it unlocked and the pushrod flew out, it might be OK. Give it a shot. Usually the lifter itself is fine, just when the DOD activates and collapses the plunger it fails to return. I'd try it just to save some money and work involved.

 

[mark'stb]

Not hard at all. The pushrod did not fly out of the engine like in the video. It just raised up and when I pushed on it, it went down again. didn't take much pressure to move it downward. Pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked the engine over. Lifter did not pump up. All the other rockers were ok.

 

[mark'stb]

Got both heads off and lifters out. On to removing the radiator and the front cover and cam. Got all the parts ordered except the cam which I will do tomorrow when Texas Speed opens. Here is a picture of the SOB lifter with the collasped spring.

 

[mark'stb]

Finally after a month of weekends and a few nights a week, it is up and running. This turned into a lot more work than I first anticipated. I've done numerous head and cam changes in C5 and C6 Corvettes, but this one is a lot more labor intensive. Some things to make note of: there's more to it than just a cam change. Dropping the oil pan to access the one bolt holding the pickup tube to the oil pump ate up over 9 hours. Why the genius GM engineers didn't use the other bolt hole on the oil pump for the pickup tube is a mystery to me. May as well change the oil pump, timing chain and gears, and diff side seals while they are out of the truck. I had to change the u joint on the front drive shaft because the trunion showed signs of wear. Anyways, I used a stock GM 2010 Corvette LS3 cam, lifters, pushrods, valve springs, and rocker arms. Had the heads redone. Deleting the afm causes the engine to default 4 cylinder mode when this is done making the truck undriveable. A retune will require more than turning off the afm codes. Fuel and spark tables need to be changed to work with this cam- and I'll assume any cam that does not have the same specs as a stock one-, but it does idle smooth as glass, has more power, and so far almost 1.2 mpg increase. Next thing is to adjust the shift pattern. The trans has always had early and soft upshifts. Hopefully my tuner will do this tomorrow.

 

[Mooseman]

Nice work. I was able to get that bolt out without dropping the pan and reloacted it to the other hole. I later had to replace the oil pump again as I had used a standard LS pump when I should have used the DOD version (high volume and pressure). Was getting a low oil pressure code. Access to that bolt was perfect. Only problem is that I have an oil leak there.

I put in a stock cam so a retune wasn't necessary but I had already had DOD turned off along with a mail order tune. I don't see why it would default to 4 cyl if you leave the VLOM or the brake booster vacuum sensor connector unplugged. It probably just ran like crap due to the new cam.

I should have it dyno tuned as I get terrible gas mileage (~13MPG). I have a spare PCM I could get tuned.