Deadish Engine - Opinions

[BuffettTruck]

A couple months ago the engine in my 05 TB started making a tapping noise. I parked it and had it hauled to a shop to find out what was the issue. The shop doesn't do deep engine servicing and called me back to let me know that the sound was coming from the block and was likely a bad rod bearing. I talked to them about options and was told I could take it to a machine shop and pay $5-6k to have the rod machined and new bearings installed, pay about $700-1.5k for a used engine and then find a shop that will swap it out or I could just junk it and get a new vehicle - which both service desk jockeys said is what they would do.

Since then, I have let the TB sit while I figure out if I want to get another TB or do the engine swap bit. With a new-to-me TB I could inherit new problems. With a used/junkyard engine I could end up with a lower mileage engine, but with how computerized the engine is, I don't know if this could lead to its own set of problems. Plus I keep finding engines for 02-04 and 06-up, which suggests the 05 had it's own flavor of the 4.2L(?).

So... Opinions? What would you do?

 

[northcreek]

I would do the math on all of your options and see if the scale tips towards a new vehicle. I do not like what the shop is telling you(ball park est.).
I've had good/bad luck with junkyard engines ( flip a coin).
You don't mention your mileage but, if your truck is nearing the end of it's service life you could repair/replace the engine only to have the transmission go out. You have to weigh all these factors and go with your gut.

 

[Sparky]

Buy a JY engine, rebuild it, turbo it, and have fun. 😁

 

[Mooseman]

Nothing special about the '05. Everything from 02-05 is a direct swap. 06-07 relocated the temp sensor so a little modding to extend the wiring from its current location to the right rear. The coils also changed so you would need to get the connectors for them and change them from your current ones. Keep your current injector rail for your current return type fuel system as well as your PCM. In any case, you will need a CASE relearn.

08-09 are not compatible.

I would get a second opinion although knocks of any kind are usually the death knell. This is a way you can check yourself if it is indeed rod knock:

 

[BuffettTruck]

Buy a JY engine, rebuild it, turbo it, and have fun. 😁

Unfortunately, I live in a community with rules against intensive vehicle work and have no garage, otherwise I would have done this from the get go. I even though about getting a used one and keeping it hidden in the back of my TB as I work on it as I have no issue doing the wrenching. I replaced an engine in an 84 Mazda B2000 and helped swap a V6 into a 4 banger Nissan Hardbody back in the day, but engines were simpler then. It's all the computerized tuning that engines have today that keep me from feeling comfortable about tackling this myself.

 

[BuffettTruck]

if your truck is nearing the end of it's service life you could repair/replace the engine only to have the transmission go out. You have to weigh all these factors and go with your gut.

You make a good and fair point about the transmission. I think that tips my decision toward junking it and getting a new one.

Thanks.

 

[TollKeeper]

I think if you find a shop thats willing to do the work, its what I would work towards. I can find running and driving trucks for around 600 bucks in Ocala, Florida (I dont know where in Florida you are). Have the shop pull the running gear out of the running donor, put it in your truck, call it a day.

You know your truck. You know its quirks. Are you going to get that on getting another vehicle? The only unknown to you is the engine/Trans. And as many people will attest on this forum, you maintain it, or it will maintain your wallet.

 

[BuffettTruck]

That's the thing. I did maintain it. I can't speak for the previous owners though. It had just gotten an oil change, new plugs and a dose of of injector cleaner. To top it off, it currently has a full tank of premium that I had put in the day before the noise started. (I put in premium to help 'rinse' the fuel lines after the injector cleaner. Overkill or pointless? Maybe both, but it is what it is.) So I need to drain that out and put it to use.

 

[TollKeeper]

Well, if you maintain it like that, I dont know if I would worry about the tranny. Just get an engine, have a shop swap it, and be on your way. An engine replacement is going to be a LOT cheaper than a new/newer vehicle.

This is a the cheap one I found in Ocala. Its a rollover, engine runs per the auction listing. 450 plus auction fees would be right at 600 bucks or so. Have it towed to the shop thats going to do the engine swap, and maybe swap some other things that may be in better condition. Sell the truck off to the junk yard when done, get 200 bucks-ish.

https://www.copart.com/lot/32212019

 

[Mooseman]

Only problem with that is two fold. One is that the shop will charge double engine removals and there is no warranty on the engine. Also the cost of the tow.

 

[TollKeeper]

That would be true, but unless he goes to one of those they pull it yards, and pay 1200 ish, it's more cost effective. At least with Copart, you can go in, and look at it, start it, etc, do be sure the purchase is worth the money.

 

[Mike534x]

I thought with places like copart you need to have a business license, or know someone who is a broker to get access to bid on vehicles? When I went with a buddy to check out a rolled Yukon they wouldn't allow access unless that stuff was provided.

He might be better off with like LKQ, or one of those places on eBay that warranty/check the engine to make sure its functional.

 

[northcreek]

You make a good and fair point about the transmission. I think that tips my decision toward junking it and getting a new one.

Thanks.

Yeah, at 14-15 years old you might be under it more than in it. Like you said the non-electronic vehicles of the past were timeless due to their simplicity, now...not so much.
With your situation of not being able to wrench the costs would make it impractical IMO.

 

[TollKeeper]

I thought with places like copart you need to have a business license, or know someone who is a broker to get access to bid on vehicles? When I went with a buddy to check out a rolled Yukon they wouldn't allow access unless that stuff was provided.

Some cars you can you still bid on, but not all. I recently purchased my Mercury Montego from Copart, no license here. The Saab 9-7x I tried to buy Tuesday required a license, otherwise I would be driving that thing now.

 

[Mike534x]

Ahhh I see, they didn't tell us that. Good to know for the future!