SOLVED! Cylinder Head and timing chain headaches.

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rchalmers3

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Jul 11, 2020
207
Irmo, SC
Hiya Matt, it sounds like you have a bit of a mess to clean up. Breaking drill bits off in the center of the hole you are intending to use for extraction is no bueno. Those bits of broken drill are hardened, and will quickly dull another drill if you try to re-drill into, or alongside the existing hole.

I have a few suggestions. First is to use a small punch and try to shatter the broken drill into little pieces, clearing out the hole little by little so you can continue. You will probably ruin a punch trying, but if it works, it will be worth the price of a replacement tool.

Another idea is to buy a pack of 10 5/32" drills off Amazon or Ebay. Get Left Handed drills to keep the cost down, and try to drill out the broken bit. You can count on wasting a number of drills, but hopefully you will get a clear bore restarted and will be able to fit an extractor.

For future reference, (sorry I didn't get this info to you earlier) the alignment piece in the extraction tool set I recommend is more than a clever center locating devise. It also is very useful in that it moves the drill stress point up from the drill tip to the place where the drill enters the top of aligning piece. When using the tool I recommend, the drill will break in half if there is a sudden slip, catch or excessive mis-alignment. I had 100% success on the last engine I worked on with 9 bolts needing extraction.

Finally, I commend you for your efforts. I would not consider trying to do head work with the engine in frame. Not this platform anyway!

Cheers Matt, let know how you fare.

Rick
 
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Dieseldog

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Jul 22, 2020
25
New Mexico
Broken head bolts on the back (firewall) side suck. I had the same thing happen to me. I had to get a "holehog" it's a drill at a 90° angle that fits in tight spots. Use a punch to center the bit. I used a regular right hand cobalt bit from Tractor supply and the extractors I used were from Autozone.
 
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mrrsm

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Now THAT is an interesting Idea... and for only $21.00 over on Amazon, this GINODE Tool features a Steel 90 Degree Adapter with a Manual Chuck that might give Matt a little better off-center alignment over that Broken Bolt Shank in that cramped #6 Cylinder area enough to concentrate his Downward Drilling Pressure right into the middle of freshly "center-punched" Spot:



GINODERIGHTANGLEDRILL0.jpgGINODERIGHTANGLEDRILL1.jpgGINODERIGHTANGLEDRILL2.jpgGINODERIGHTANGLEDRILL3.jpg
 
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tucker12

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May 20, 2020
50
ohio
Quick update for yall,

I pulled the engine Block, (that was very easy to do to my surprise). I sent the block and the time sert kit to the machine shop to get installed, hes going to remove the broken bolt with his special tools and machines. Mike the machine shop owner said that the block and everything is very tight for having 220000 miles on her. He did mention alot of burnt oil in the oil pan and recommended a oil cooler. What are your guys thoughts on that?
In the meantime I plan on replacing all the power steering lines and undercoating the frame and cleaning the engine bay up.

From my understanding I have to get a new harmonic balancer bolt, New camshaft sprocket bolts, and I have the 1st gen oil pump that from what I read on here should be replaced with a second gen orange ring design. Do you guys have the part numbers for the bolts? Also can the timing cover be used with the new design pump or do i need to get one of those? Any suggestions on what else I should do with the engine out?

- matthew
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
He did mention alot of burnt oil in the oil pan and recommended a oil cooler. What are your guys thoughts on that?
I haven't seen anybody here add one. OEM never had an option for one on this engine. Only way to add one would be an oil filter adapter. I don't think it's worth the hassle.

Bolt numbers should be available on a site like GMPartsDirect. If not, dealer can do that.
 
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TollKeeper

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Dec 3, 2011
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I imagine the "a lot of burnt oil" is just GM's pathetic breather/PCV system. Its also why the throttle bodys get so gummed up. I wouldnt do the cooler, wont make a bit of difference.
 

tucker12

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May 20, 2020
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ohio
What about a oil catch can on the crankcase vent system?
 

Reprise

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It's definitely cleaner on your intake, but won't do anything for coking / burning of the oil, itself.
If you rig one up, put the can lower than the breather outlet, and run the outlet back up (this lets gravity do the bulk of the work. And you don't have to spend a ton on a fancy Mishimoto, etc. Just make sure you check the level in the can. I use this one (which has a little dipstick!):


If your pan contents really suggest the oil is 'burnt'... see if you can find an oil with an additive pack specifically formulated to combat this. Usually, it's smaller engines that do this, as they're working harder for the same specific output. Same for engines that have a small sump size. But I wouldn't exactly call the LL8 a 'small' engine, and it specs 7qt to fill, too (my LS engines only take six in stock trim, for comparison, and they're both bigger, displacement-wise, than yours).

Anyway... something in the way of a formulation for small displacement and / or turbocharged engines might help, here. But don't switch viscosity - stick with 5W-30, if that's what your engine is spec'd for (IIRC). What are you using now?

Another thing you could consider is a used oil analysis. Blackstone Labs is probably the big player here; there are others. With a UOA, you'll get a sense of what's really going on in your engine (they run about $25-35 or so, and they'll send you a collection kit for free).
 

tucker12

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May 20, 2020
50
ohio
So just a Weekend update for everyone, Monday is the day the block will be rethreaded with the insert. Today I dropped off a broken junkyard ll8 that was cracked down the side for him to mock up on the cnc to write the drilling program on the cnc. I also took all the sensors and stuff off that motor so now I have a box of spares witch isnt bad for $100. I started painting the engine bay with rust inhibitor and double checking the front suspension for bad parts.

Is there anything else I need to do while the engine is out that would be a good preventive item?

Best,
Matthew
 

TollKeeper

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Dec 3, 2011
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Motor mounts, cooling fan electrostatic hub, thermostat, water pump, radiator of it's questionable, power steering cooling lines, tranny cooler lines
 
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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Check the tranny input shaft/torque converter seal. Go over the flex plate carefully for any cracking.
 
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tucker12

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May 20, 2020
50
ohio
Its been a long long six months. Between graduating college, covid and everything else the engine has been on the back burner but! Its in my garage! with the timesert installed!

I have Everything but the replacement TTY camshaft bolts & harmonic balancer bolts [ yall got part numbers?]
Im not even going to attempt to put everything back together until I finish cleaning the timing cover, gasket surfaces, threaded holes, and having the written down instructions to study.

So far I am needing the elders knowledge & clarification on how to install the exhaust cam sprocket w the delphi actuator to the camshaft, how to set the timing, head torque instructions, harmonic balancer torque, timing cover torque, and do I use the oil pan with the baffles inside or the one without? I somehow have both, one is from the practice machine shop bock .

As of right now, I have:
block with pistons and the crank in it
Felpro gasket set
Malhe timing cover gasket set
Felpro head bolts
Permatex Black RTV giant tube
Thread locker
Remachined cylinder head
Oil pan with baffles
Oil pan without baffles
Harmonic balancer
Timing cover with stock oil pump on it
Coyles timing set
New power steering lines
New power steering pump
stock oil pickup

I hope everyone on here has been well and healthy in the meantime since we last spoke.


Best regards,

Matthew





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mrrsm

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Welcome back, Matt…

Let’s “Eat this Elephant” One Bite at a Time:

Major GM Atlas 4.2L LL8 Engine Fasteners and Gaskets:

...via my "Flickr-Bucket" images with Parts, Part Numbers and Box-Bag Markings:


Additional Components and Part Numbers:

New Genuine GM 24100263 Engine Camshaft Bolt
New Genuine GM 12565425 Bolt
Fel-Pro ES 72195 Cylinder Head Bolt Set
Fel-Pro Hs26214Pt Head Gasket Set
AC-Delco 15-11073 GM Original Equipment Engine Coolant Thermostat Housing
GMC O2 Oxygen Sensor SG1823 15894 234-4344 ES20113 21044 4 wire w/ OEM Plug
Dorman 674-777 Exhaust Manifold
Dorman 917-010 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
Dorman Kit Exhaust Stud Front Full Size Truck Chevy GMC Sierra 03133
Dorman 03413B Exhaust Manifold Hardware Kit
Dorman 674-777 Exhaust Manifold Kit
Cloyes 9-0195S Timing Chain Set
Sealed Power 224-53582 Oil Pump Repair Kit
Fel-Pro TCS-45051 Timing Cover Gasket Set
AC-Delco 15-40133 GM Original Equipment Engine Cooling Fan Clutch
Stant 14659 Thermostat And Housing - 190 Degrees Fahrenheit
AC-Delco D1843A GM Original Equipment Engine Oil Pressure Switch
AC-Delco 251-731 GM Original Equipment Water Pump
AC-Delco 251-2029 GM Original Equipment Water Pump Gasket
Cloyes S908 Timing Driven Gear

Engine Block:

(1) When facing the front of the Engine… the #1 Cylinder is located right in front. You'll have to install the Lower Crankshaft Timing Chain Cog onto the nose of the Crankshaft and then Rotate the Crank CLOCKWISE ONLY until you can see the small circle embossed on the front face of the Cog located in the Lower 4-5 O'clock Position as per the prior posted Engine Timing Diagram.

(2) You can carefully use either the Old Crank Bolt along with a 1/2" Deep Socket and Ratchet... or use the Flex-Plate to perform this Engine Rotation and observe as the #1 Cylinder comes right up to Top Dead Center. (Piston Top will be almost even with the upper Engine Block Face as you eyeball “The Dot on the Cog” for being in the correct position. At this point… the DOHC (Double Over Head Camshafts) will be in the correct timing position during the pending installation and NOT strike the Pistons from being out of their correct positions once the Engine Head is being installed.

(3) Please note that the Engine Head is NOT yet installed onto the Engine Block during these procedures, so don’t worry if you move things around “past their proper positions”. Just relax and rotate the Crank-Rods-Pistons around again clockwise until you can get things perfectly aligned. Refer to the Timing Chain Diagram I posted previously for this Crank Cog Alignment.

The GM Atlas Vortec 4.2L LL8 Engine Head for DOHC Camshafts Installation:

(1) Try to set up a Bench with a working height slightly higher than waist high. Nothing is more fatiguing than having to bend over a long engine head while performing tiresome work that requires concentration and attention to all these details. Be careful not to mar or damage the underside mating surfaces of the Engine Head.

(2) Lay the Engine Head on top of two lengths of 2” X 4” such that the Combustion Chambers and the (4) Valves nested within each of the (6) Six Piston to Head Positions can actuate freely up and down without striking the counter-top surfaces.

(3) Use Spray Cleaning Solvent to clean the upper surface of the Head while paying particular attention to the cleanliness of the Camshaft Journals "Clam Shells". Apply some Engine Assembly Lube (NOT Moly-D Lube) or some Lubri-Plate #105 in the Half Shell locations for each Camshaft Journal and inside of each Cap.

(4) Clean and Lube the small hollow Push Rods and slip them into their proper positions into the engine head along with their Tiny Lubed Roller Rockers such that the rollers will be in direct contact with the Camshaft Lobes and the tops of each Valve Stem once the Camshafts are lowered onto the clam shell spaces for each Journal. THIS Video displays how this should be done:


(5) Thoroughly Clean the Camshafts Lobes and Journal bosses of the Camshafts and ensure that you are installing the Intake Camshaft on the Right side of the Engine Head (when facing the front of the SUV ) and installing the Exhaust Camshaft on the Left Side of the Engine Head.

(6) Thoroughly lube up the Lobes and Journals with the Engine Assembly Lube and carefully lay the Camshaft(s) over their respective Journal Positions. Install the properly numbered Camshaft Caps along the length of the Camshaft… HAND TIGHTENING the two fasteners on each Cap, noting the correct orientation of each Cap. Refer to your original Pre-Disassembly photos if you need to double check their locations and positions.

(7) At this point, the actual rotational alignment of each Camshaft for purposes of Crankshaft to Camshafts Final Timing alignments are unimportant. THAT step will be addressed after both camshafts have been completely installed.

(8) Using an alternating pattern and working your way from the inside Journals outwards… GRADUALLY tighten down the Journal Caps with equal measure for BOTH Fasteners on either side of each Cap in order to avoid bending, binding or damaging the Aluminum Caps or Lobes of the Hollow Camshafts. Work methodically until you are certain that ALL of the Cam Caps are mated onto the Engine Head.

(9) Follow the same pattern of applying the correct 106 INCH POUNDS of Torque and then MARK EACH COMPLETED CAP with a Permanent White Paint Marker after wiping the upper Cap Bolt Heads with a rag soaked in solvent. In this manner you will be certain that each Cap is definitely Installed, Tightened and Correctly Torqued Down.

(10) Prior to lifting and placing the Engine Head on the Engine Block, install the Camshaft Holding Tool at the BACK ENDS of the Camshafts after rotating each Camshaft around to position where their Flats on each end are Horizontaland LEVEL. (See Prior Postings for images and instructions).

(11) Install the Exhaust Cam Phaser – Sprocket and Intake Camshaft Steel Sprocket as per @Mooseman’s Cam Phaser Thread Instructions covered in prior postings in this Thread for using Brand New TTY Bolts on BOTH Cam Sprockets.

(12) As long as you have installed the New Timing Chain Guides, the New Timing Chain Tensioner and the Timing Chain with one Black Link positioned over the Dot on the Crankshaft Cog and one Black Link over each of the Cam-Phaser Sprocket and Intake Sprocket Vertical markings and confirmed that the word “DELPHI” marked on the front of the Cam Phaser is Level with the Upper, Horizontal face of the Engine Head... then the Engine Timing will be PERFECT.

(12.5) Remember to “Pull the Pin” out of the Timing Chain Tensioner only AFTER all of this work has been completed and recall that you must Rotate the Engine slowly by hand for a total of (14) Fourteen Complete Clockwise Rotations in order to finally return the #1 Cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC) and have ALL Three Sprocket Timing Marks shown in that posted Timing Diagram align with their respective Black Link Markings on the Timing Chain.
 
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mrrsm

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Here is some additional information to answer your other Questions:

Follow the Head Bolt Installation Torque Sequences as shown in the Attached Diagram. FelPro TTY Head Bolt Tightening and Torque Angle Sequence for the GM Atlas Vortec LL8 4.2L Engine Head are as follows:

(Source = Page 28 of 79 Pages from the FelPro Engine TTY Bolt Specifications “Bible”):

https://drivcat.com/livedocs/99999.pdf

(1) First, Tighten the Main Head Bolts #s 1-14 to (22) Foot Pounds on the 1st Pass.
(2) Then Tighten the Main Head Bolts #s 1-14 an Additional (90) Degrees on the 2nd Pass.
(3) Then Tighten the Main Head Bolts #s 1-14 an Additional (65) Degrees on the 3rd Pass and STOP.
(4) Then Tighten Bolt # 15 to (5.1) Foot Pounds.
(5) Then Tighten Bolt # 15 an Additional 120 Degrees… and STOP.
(6) Then Tighten Bolt #s 16 & 17 to (5.1) Foot Pounds in Sequence.
(7) Then Tighten Bolt #s 16 & 17 an Additional (60) Degrees in Sequence and STOP.

GM Part# 11609792 Crankshaft Balancer Bolt is available on eBay from around $15.00. The Old Harmonic Balancer will require replacing the Old GM Part# 12578073 Sealing Friction Washer (Placed upon the INSIDE of the Harmonic Balancer Center Snout) or by getting a New Harmonic Balancer Kit as GM GENUINE Part# 12578069 (This Kit Includes the GM Part# 12578073 WASHER) and requires the Seal Kit Part# 89017622).

The Proper Installation of the Harmonic Balancer occurs AFTER installing the Complete Timing Chain Set and Front Cover with a New PTFE Oil Seal but PRIOR to installing the Crankshaft TTY Bolt. This work requires using THIS specific Tool: The K&M Part# EN-48034 Harmonic Balancer Installation Tool Kit.

REMEMBER… DO NOT ATTEMPT TO USE THE OLD OR NEW TTY CRANKSHAFT BOLT TO TRY AND ‘DRAW IN’ THE HARMONIC BALANCER. DOING SO WILL CAUSE THE CRANKSHAFT INNER THREADS TO GET STRIPPED OUT… AND RESULT IN RUINING THE CRANKSHAFT.


After properly performing the Installation of the Harmonic Balancer:

(A) Purchase a Brand New GM Part# 11609792 TTY HB Crankshaft Bolt from eBay or from gmpartsdirect.com

(B) After first restraining the Flex-Plate to the back of the Engine Stand along the Fire Ring Gear by using pairs of Vice Grips, carefully thread in the New HB TTY Bolt into the Crankshaft Snout and apply 110 Foot Pounds of Torque on the First Pass.

(C) Then PAINT A WHITE VERTICAL REFERENCE LINE ON THE BOLT FACE that crosses onto the adjacent upper Timing Cover. Then, using a ½” Deep Socket and a ½” Breaker Bar to Rotate the TTY Crankshaft Bolt another 180 Degrees (FROM the 12:00 position TO the 6:00 position in a Clockwise Direction) to achieve the Final TTY …and STOP.
 

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tucker12

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ohio
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Got her on. Torqued to the specs provided, lubed up with assembly lube. Turns over butter smooth. Since the photos I bolted the oil pan on.

I wanted to get your thoughts on bolting the starter on and doing a compression test on each cylinder before I rent he-man to put her back in the car.
 

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mrrsm

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Sweet Progress! Even though all In-Line Engines are Naturally Internally Balanced, I would not recommend applying Starter Force with such a TALL, Top Heavy Motor mounted upon an unrestrained Engine Stand Base. It might surprise you by doing something Crazy... and trying to flip over. My guess is that your compression across the entire Bank of Six will be fine.

However, I DO think it a Good Idea though to install the Starter BEFORE installing the Engine as the Atlas Motors are some of the FEW that this can be done upon. Make sure to use a Good Engine Break-In Oil like Royal Purple with a High ZDDP content (Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate) just for some added insurance. No sense 'Tempting The Fates' on your New Build W/O giving that Motor every chance it needs to Get Going Early and to Break In the Top End and Timing Chain Set Properly. :>)

Leave the RP Break-In Motor Oil inside the Motor only for the First 500 Miles and then change it over to Mobil1 FULL Synthetic 5W-30 along with installing a Mobil1, K&N or Wick HQ Oil Filter as exposing the CAT and O2 Sensors to too much ZDDP can cause them to be coated with the stuff in the Exhaust Stream and this can defeat their performances.

Nicely Done, Brother...You've been putting a GM Atlas Motor together with Caution and Care... So you'll NEVER have to prove your Manhood again in ANY Way. :>)

PS... HEED @TollKeeper 's Sage Advice on CHECKING OUT YOUR TRANSMISSION COOLER LINES, YOUR BRAKE LINES AND YOUR POWER STEERING LINES FOR RUST AND CORROSION ...AND REPLACE THEM ALL NOW... BEFORE THAT MOTOR "GOES HOME" AND THEY START LEAKING!
 
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JayArr

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Sep 24, 2018
504
Mission BC Canada
Hi Tucker

Now that your engine is back together are you interested in selling the Time-Sert tool kit?

I'm just starting my build and MRRSM suggests I put time-serts into all of my head holes before I reassemble.
 
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tucker12

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May 20, 2020
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ohio
Somehow my brake lines are in very good condition despite ODOTs salt. I have new power steering lines. The transmission lines are the wild card. I havent checked them yet, or the fuel lines.
 
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tucker12

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May 20, 2020
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ohio
I hope you guys had a great holiday weekend!
I muscled the truck to the paved part of the driveway to use the picker with ease
I just ordered new transmission cooler lines, Coolant hoses, Delco filters and a 14 quarts of Mobil 1 5w30 ( yay rebates!)

As I wait for all that to get here, I plan on installing my new power steering lines. I cant wait to go to harbor freight to get a pic to get that cup seal out.

My big question I have at the moment is Safe lifting points for this engine. How do I go about safely lifting this big boy up. Should I set the carne to 1 ton? Chain or straps?

Also It would be fine to get replacement dipsticks from the yard?


Best, Matthew
 

mrrsm

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If you cannot find one locally, perhaps you get a Complete Dipstick & Tube Combo from a Non Rust-Belt location ... like the ones over on eBay as 2003-2004 OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA 4.2L ENGINE OIL LEVEL DIPSTICK W/ TUBE OEM 203755.

As for Lifting the Motor back in with a Cherry Picker, you can try Lifting AND Stabilizing the Motor using the Factory Engine Lift Bracket at the Left Front of the Engine AND use a Heavy Gauge Nylon Strap threaded through the Crankcase Axle Hole and on the inside of the Motor Mount Brackets . Just remember to tie it off VERY CLOSE to the Valve Cover.... Sort of like the Method I used on my 2004 LL8 Engine:


 

tucker12

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May 20, 2020
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ohio
Well she's in*
The issue I have now is getting the bolt holes to line up[ see photo]. We were going to lift the back of the engine up and try to line them up that way but then mother nature had other plans.

While I wait for the rain to pass, Suggestions on car batteries? I've had nothing but bad luck with my local AutoZone duracrap batteries. Are die hard batteries any good? Napa? Should I spring for premium or nah?

Also, got dipsticks from the yard, new Delco coolant hoses, power steering lines, cooler lines and o ring set for the ac showed in from the internet land.

She is slowly finally taking shape. Hopefully after this engine is running I have enough dough to fix the rust before it grows any more. 20210710_200306.jpg Best,
Matt
 

mrrsm

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Matt... It looks like perhaps you forgot to install the Alignment Dowel Pins with one on either side of the Mid-Case of the Engine Block ...OR... Likewise, located in the same opposite positions into the Bell Housing before getting them so damned close together.

Otherwise, they might never be able to 'get together' unless these events take place from about from about 1/2" to 3/4" apart. If you never had them in the first place... you will have to find a pair before and get them inserted before attempting to install ANY Fasteners.

The Same applies for aligning the Short Snout in the center of the Torque Converter, too. It follows on that the Flex-Plate Triple Bolt Holes set 120 Degrees Apart will also be out of alignment. Carefully separate the Block and Bell Housing and start all over again. Avoid trying to draw the Engine Block to the Bell Housing with any of the (11) Bolts.

If they won't go come back together with essentially "Gentle Persuasion"...then something is very wrong and demands a much closer inspection. Do NOT use ANYTHING to make them get closer involving Hammer Strikes, Clamps, Presses, Come-Alongs or any other type of tool beyond your own "Horse Power" and Patience to make things right. One last caution worth mentioning... There have been some instances where the Mechanic has mistakenly installed One Dowel Pin into the back of the Engine Block...AND...installed the OTHER Pin in the exact opposing side of the Bell Housing. Naturally... when the two Bang Heads....there would be no way that the Transmission and Engine Block will ever meet flush together in that event.
 
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tucker12

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May 20, 2020
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ohio
The alignment dowel pins nipple looking things are in the block, one on each side. It looks like if I give her a lift up the dowels will slide up and into the transmission. Its hard to see in the photo but the block and trans have some distance between them. Right now the dowel pins are resting on the machined face of the bellhousing about 2 inches below the holes they go in.

I cant really do much rn because the sheer amount of water in my driveway but ill attempt pics when it drys up.
 
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mrrsm

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NP... No Rush... back in 2014-15 ish... I laid on my driveway atop Plastic Garbage Bag enveloped sections of Cardboard for an entire week while performing a Solo 4L60E R&R Swap. Cold December Rain fell down relentlessly upon me during that entire effort and of course... I was miserable. So take your time and all will be well ... we'll be waiting patiently in the wings. :>)

It would not hurt to daub on some Anti-Seize onto both of those *protruding points*.... And one other Caution... During the time of all this "Jockeying" Back and Forth...it is possible for the Torque Converter to Slide Forwards... and then NOT be properly seated all the way onto the Transmission Fluid Pump Shaft...One "clunk" followed by a Second "clunk".

Open the Stainless Steel "Viewing Port" on the outer Bell Housing in order to check upon its status as you proceed. It is yet another place to obstruct a proper gap closure in between the Engine Block and Bell Housing Flanges and a source for damaging the delicate Transmission Fluid Seals as well.

There always seems to be "One More Thing..." to have to worry about...But THIS one will become a HUGE PITA if you are not aware of it:

Double Check that the Aluminum Heater Hose Pipe (2) Support Tangs are positioned on the Transmission Side of the Bell Housing Upper Bolt Flange. Otherwise... they can accidentally get wedged in between the Bell Housing and the back of the Engine Block... and STOP you from being able to get BOTH sides Flush Mounted with one another. If needs be... Tie a Line to the Pipe and LIFT it up high enough to get the Trans-2-Block Gap CLOSED and then allow the Pipe to settle back down. Afterwards, you can slip in the Two Top Bolts THROUGH the aligned Aluminum Tangs and further on THROUGH the Bell Housing and finally... on into the Engine Block. *Whew*...WHAT a CHORE!
 
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Mooseman

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Just make damn sure that the torque converter is in properly. While lightly pushing back on it, turn it until it slides in and it engages the oil pump tangs. Some have destroyed the tranny's oil pump when it wasn't in right.
 
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tucker12

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May 20, 2020
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ohio
Gentlemen!
Today she Roared to life.
However she gave me a list of complaints. Now to preface this I was a major major dumbass and didn't put the hood back on the truck before the biblical amount of rain we received these last few days here in ohio. So My guess is that some connectors are wet and that's my issue. I unplugged the battery and will let her sit overnight before I take some electrical contact cleaner to each plug and hope that fixes it. If you guys have any input on these error codes I am all ears, I also have intermittent oil pressure but there is no concerning noises and it disappears when I give it gas. Also Thank you again for all your help until this point. I am so happy that this engine runs!

Best,
Matt
Screenshot_20210717-191837_inCarDoc free.jpg
 
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tucker12

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Just make damn sure that the torque converter is in properly. While lightly pushing back on it, turn it until it slides in and it engages the oil pump tangs. Some have destroyed the tranny's oil pump when it wasn't in right.
I did! She is pumping fluid into the cooler! I also put thread locker on the bolts.
 
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mrrsm

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Here is Eric O”s take on the P2138 ACC Pedal Problem involving the SHARED 5 Volt Reference from SHORTED OUT wires on the EV FAN CLUTCH:


...and here are two more Related Throttle Body Issues that required an R&R:

Part 1:

Part 2:

Here is “The Car Doctor” ’s Take on the For these BCM Air Bag Codes:

Chevy GMC Service Airbag Message Codes B0024 B0026 B0043 B0044


B" Codes related to the BCM (Body Control Module) involving U1000 Code(s) indicates that SOMEWHERE, the Grounding Circuit for the 5 Volt Reference Signal is either Absent or Shorted to 12 Volts DC as in the case of the Electro-Viscous Fan-Clutch depicted in the attached image.

Double Check ALL of the Connectors (Un-Plug...Re-Plug) them ALL and spray them out with CRC Electric Contact Solvent ...NOT BRAKE-KLEEN.


Be Systematic and Fastidious and examine all the Harness Wiring for any possible breaks or pulled pins from the Plastic Connectors... especially on the Throttle Body Harness.

FYI... Scanner Danner has a Decent YT Video showing how he Diagnosed a problematic EV Fan for Powers and Continuity on a Trailblazer....Great Step By Steps there...
 

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Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Not sure water can really affect connectors a lot since they are sealed. My thoughts:

The throttle sensor errors, check the plug and wiring. I've forgotten to reconnect it or not quite got it in enough for proper contact.

P0340, the Cam sensor wiring is in a rather exposed area at the front of the engine and can be easily damaged. Check it's properly connected and the wiring.

The frontal sensor loop, probably just knocked or disturbed the sensor on the front bumper.

B2550, is actually something with the lighting system, either backup lamps or interior dome lamp, depending on who you listen to. I'd be inclined to believe interior dome since you also have B0951 Dimming circuit error and B2575 Headlamp control circuit. Could just be the switch.

The Key in ignition circuit error, I would assume it's a problem with the switch in the ignition key itself or its wiring. Maybe related to the headlamp circuit issue with a wiring issue?

However, I would first fix the U1000 error as this means a problem with modules communicating with each other but that error usually brings on a slew of others where the modules can't talk to each other.
 

mrrsm

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Attached are Diagrams for the DLC Female Port Wiring, the two Class 2 Network Wiring Diagrams, the Three PCM Connector Pin-Outs and the BCM Wiring Diagram. These will all help you with running down the U1000 Error. Pay particular attention to the Black Common Network Ground Wires in the circuitry and check their Splice Pack locations for loose Body Grounds related to their common arrival at the Network Splice Packs (SP-XXX). The OTHER (A-M) Binary Color Coded and Specific for each of the Modules on the Network. These are located with the one serving the FRONT Class 2 Area Network situated under the Driver's Kick Panel along the under dash on the left hand side. The other (A-M) One that handles all of the Rear Body Modules is hidden under a Carpet Flap beneath the Right Rear Passenger Seat. These Splice Packs look like the Corvette version shown in the attached mage below.

In this Video... @MAY03LT shows us clearly how much 'Module Mayhem' can be caused by One Single Splice Pack and Body Ground Bolt NOT making a Good Connection:


A single loose ground in particular near the BCM Ground Pillar could spin off a whole raft of Module Miscommunication and throw handfuls of oddball codes. Broken Bonding Straps can also come into play here. Powers and Grounds to Modules should also be checked with a Lighted Probe.... and probe EVERY Fuse in BOTH Fuse Blocks for continuity. Remember that the Class 2 Network in your SUV is a Single Wire System that provides 0-7 Volts for PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) paths to and from the PCM and the BCM and ALL the Modules "Sharing the Party Line" in between. Thus, any one problem area can affect the entire Network as a result.

One last place to check... The Green and Gold Cable connecting the BCM Module to the Fuse Block under the Left Rear Passenger Seat can suffer problems from people spilling Cokes and getting debris in between the Gold Flex-Cable Tines and the Fuse Block Contacts. It is worth a closer look, too.

Will Robinson's Long Video is arguably THE BEST "How To Run Down Class 2 Network FUBARS" around showing WHERE everything is situated with the Network Layout along with HOW to Find and Diagnose these issues and WHAT Tools are required to do this Right:

 

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tucker12

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May 20, 2020
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ohio
Well I checked all the grounds I could find and unplugged the fan and that seemed to do the trick with those error codes.

However, Now I have a bigger issue. The engine now sounds like two pots smacking together and my oil pressure gage is bouncing all over. I shut the truck off. The only two codes I have are a p0300 and the error code for the fan.

I really hope that it didn't throw a bearing or something.
 
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tucker12

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ohio
Im going to get fresh gas and put that in the tank, im wondering if the gas that has sat in the tank for the last year+ is the culprit, ethanol and all that might be bad.
 

mrrsm

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Make some 30 Second Youtube Videos whenever possible so we can Hear and See what you are encountering... From the Front... The Top and the Sides under the Wheel Wells on both sides if possible. If it sounds TOO Radical... and it starts Shaking Like a Chihuahua Trying to Sh*t a Peach Pit... Just shut down the engine ...and we'll have another "Skull Session" to try and sort things out.

As for the "Stale Fuel" issue... Using the 12 Volt DC Powered "GasTapper" style Siphon-Fuel Transfer Pumps are rapid and safe ways to evacuate the Old, Tired Fuel into appropriate Gas Cans to burn in the Ol' Lawn Mower and then pour the Fresh Stuff along with some Chevron Dexron Fuel Treatment (or STP Fuel Treatment, if you prefer...):


 
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tucker12

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ohio
So, I shut the engine off and went to get some vpower gas at the shell. I swung by advance auto and grabed a oil pressure sensor. I replaced the oil pressure sensor(that fixed the oil pressure issue I noticed the old one had no oring).
Then I checked the oil again (it is golden brown like honey)
Then I went to crank her over and she didn't want to start whatso ever. So I figured she was out of gas. I put the 5 gal of gas in her and cranked cranked and cranked and she fired up, smother and that noise has disappeared for now. So the noise is gone, I have oil pressure.

Now the fun bit of info! Misfire on cylinder 6. It difficult to see on my laptop here but shows it.1626648906164.png
Above are the videos of after the knock (top one) and the knock noise (bottom one)

I am going to let the engine fully cool down before I go digging into #6 to check the plug.
I am wondering if the coil is bad because that coil is the only odd one since the new ones connector was damaged when my dad muscled the engine into place. I also will grab some techron per your suggestion.

Again thank you all for the help so far :smile: It means alot.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Easy enough to check if it's the coil. Swap it with #5. If the misfire follows goes to 5, it's the coil.
 
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tucker12

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May 20, 2020
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ohio
I just came in for the night, I swapped the coils and it did not follow.
I will pull the plug tomorrow. Its a possibility that the plug is bad or was damaged when i moved the car parts around my garage.
Hopefully its something stupid and not a vacuum leak way back there in the corner of the intake.
When I give her gas she seems to run significantly better.
 

tucker12

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May 20, 2020
50
ohio
Well I'm going to go get a lotto ticket!
I took my compression Tester to each cylinder and I am happy to report that
1-168
2-165
3-170
4-172
5-168
6-164
So That leaves the misfire to be spark, fuel or something with the air.
Is there a way to test the coil/coil wiring harness for signal/voltage? Or the injector?
The way the plug is super clean compared to the others makes me believe its fuel related. I didn't smell gas at all on it.,
20210719_125048.jpg
#6

20210719_125100.jpg
#5

In other news, I got a second throttle body to swap and see if that does anything.

Best,
Matt
 

mrrsm

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Not to be too much of an Alarmist here... But In your second Video... that very disturbing "Tick...Tick...Tick..." sound...THAT is a Metal-On-Metal Noise that sounded very much like either a Loose or Broken Rocker Arm rather than any Absent Ignition or Misfire. If you have access to a 7-9mm Fiber-Optic Digital Endoscope... I'd suggest probing the related cylinders and make certain nothing Valve related has broken off and fallen down inside or gotten wedged up inside the Cylinder Head before running the engine again.
 

Mooseman

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Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
Glad your compression is good :2thumbsup:

Scanner Danner has an excellent video on diagnosing a misfire, also on #6. His was broken wiring. Might be the same this as yours.


For testing the fuel injectors, you'd have to do an injector balance test, which requires a scanner like the Tech 2 or Snap On.
 
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