Once you have rotated the Engine (ONLY Clockwise) perhaps as many as 14 Times in order to have the Timing Links aligned just as they are shown in the
Red Circles on the attached image, you'll need to take many more actions to prevent the Timing Chain from dropping down inside the narrow space in the Front of the Motor and have it fall loose from the Crankshaft Sprocket:
The Special Consideration at the Heart of This Repair... is the Fact that the Timing Chain Tensioner ...RATCHETS OUTWARD... as it Ages and reacts to the wear on the Timing Chain Guides along with inevitable "Chain Stretch" which prompts the internal Plunger Gear-Rod and Pad to push ever outwards further and further to achieve proper Chain Tightness. As soon as the Timing Chain is relaxed by the removal of either one or both Timing Chain Sprockets... the Timing Chain Plunger WILL fully extend and LOCK OUT in that extended position.
The Small Red Circle over the Tensioner Lock & Release Latch shown in the Diagram below emphasizes how VERY Difficult it will be to access and actuate that tiny Lock-Release Plate Latch. This demands using all manner of Hand-Made Stiff Wire Tools in order to release that Latch and then re-compress the Plunger BACK INSIDE of the Tensioner Body. You almost need 4 Hands to achieve this result, as the Latch MUST be Held in place with the Wire Tool during this R&R . This all takes place while working inside of the VERY narrow Space under the Timing Chain Front Cover at the front of the open top of the Engine.
If this 'loose chain dropping event' occurs... you WILL need to remove the Engine Oil Pan and the Front Timing Cover in order to install the New Timing Chain, Timing Chain Guides AND replace the Old, Worn Out and Extended Plunger Timing Chain Tensioner with a New, OEM version that will come with the New Tensioner Plunger fully Compressed inside the Tensioner Body and held in place with a Removable Plastic Pin until the routing and alignments return to what you can see in the attached image.
I'm not going to 'sugar-coat' the obvious problems here... this issue will be very difficult to control and keep tension on the Chain while you are trying to unbolt, elevate and remove the Old Engine Head .... ALL at the same time. The same problem remains for the re-installation of the re-worked Engine Head.
But at this point... your actions of having started to remove some of the Engine Head Bolts have more or less committed you to go forwards and work through this possible agony. Before going ANY further ... This image shows the Timing Chain Links in their proper orientation as follows that MUST be your Starting Point to avoid damaging the Engine Internals via any misalignment of these components prior to disassembly:
(1) The #1 Piston must be positioned at Top Dead Center.
(2) The Colored Timing Links of the Cam Phaser Sprocket and Intake Camshaft Sprocket must align with the Arrows or Dots etched or embedded into the face of both Sprockets.
(3) The word
"DELPHI" on the face of the Cam Phaser core must be Level and Even, Horizontally with the upper front edge of the Engine Head.
(4) The Intake and Exhaust Camshaft Notched FLATS must be Level and Even, Horizontally at the back area of the Engine Head and held in place with a Special Tool.
(5) The Dark Colored Link of the Timing Chain must align with the DOT on the front face of the Crankshaft-Gerotor Oil Pump Sprocket.
(6) The Timing Chain Tensioner Plunger and the Timing Chain must be held in place with a Special Aluminum Wedge delivered in between to prevent the Timing Chain from Falling loose from the Crankshaft-Gerotor Oil Pump Sprocket... so the Engine Head can be removed and the Timing Chain to Crankshaft Sprocket relationship does NOT Change.