I'm NOT being the least bit facetious when I explain what can STILL go wrong while you are "Getting Ready to Pull The Motor". You still face some REALLY Serious Problems and the only way to UN-FUBAR your situation is as follows:
As soon as possible... Push those Pistons-Rods as far back up inside the Cylinders as they will go and then stuff Blue Scott Shop Towels around inside the bottom of each lower cylinder to protect the Cylinder Walls. Then Re-Install the Crankshaft, the Main Caps and the Cradle and then thread in the Old TTY Bolts VERY GENTLY to Re-Secure the Crankshaft back in place inside of the Engine Block.
BE CAREFUL NOT TO CROSS-THREAD THOSE OLD TTY CRANKSHAFT-CRADLE BOLTS!
You MAY still have to re-attach each Con-Rod to the Crankshaft in order to be able to Clear the Crankshaft just enough to Rotate it inside of the Engine using the Harmonic Balancer Bolt just enough to carefully Un-Bolt the Three Torque Converter to Flywheel Bolts. Leave the Flywheel alone afterwards with it still attached to the Crankshaft - Motor until after the Transmission Bolts are Removed and the Motor is Pulled and mounted on a Stand UPSIDE DOWN.
You should only remove the Radiator & Hosing, Place Cardboard in front of the A/C Condenser, remove the Wiring Harness Connections, Ground Straps and the Motor Mounts, and anything else restricting pulling out the engine, etc., such as unbolting the A/C Compressor and setting it off to one side, But touch NOTHING that involves the Rotating Assembly.
You can also clear the Low Side A/C Aluminum Tubing Line from blocking the the top of the motor by unbolting it from the Engine Lift Bracket and from the Passenger Side of the Engine. But first, Un-Bolt the Accumulator Bracket and lift it out from inside the insulation boot just enough to allow the Hose to untwist. Then use Sturdy Zip-ties in series to gently pull the Aluminum Pipe towards the front of the Radiator Upper Bracket ...without Kinking that tubing hose line... and then simply tie it snugly off in several places at the Passenger Fender Well and at the Front Radiator Mounting Bracket. Removing the Coolant Fan and Shroud beforehand makes this process easier as well.
I stress that later on... once the Engine can be INVERTED on the Engine Stand, then you can continue to perform further internal disassembly work without too much risk. In the meantime, Please... Don't touch anything else unnecessarily on the Outside or on the Inside of this Motor until AFTER the Engine is completely out of the SUV and Reverse Mounted on The Engine Stand.