NEED HELP Crank No Start 03 Envoy

Dmauri3

Original poster
Member
Feb 20, 2020
9
Michigan
Hey all, was chilling a some days ago and my car started idling roughly. Thought it was a coil didn't pay it any mind. As I get on the freeway ramp, I can't accelerate past maybe 30-40mph. Then all of a sudden it jolts to maybe 50-55. I got it to about 70 MPH and it wouldn't go past 70. When I stepped on the gas the car wouldn't move with as much power as I was commanding it to, rpms going up but performance not matching. As I get to my destination the engine is idling much MUCH worse, to the point to where I lifted the hood and seen the engine shaking pretty badly. Along with this worse idle, I could hear a loud metal (tapping?) noise anytime I put the vehicle in drive. The noise persisted while in park but much more prominent in drive. Finally, it got to the point to where the car just wouldn't move when I stepped on the gas. At that point I cut the engine and couldn't get it back on since.

I've changed the fuel filter, pump primes, fuel sprays out at the schrader valve. I didn't do a fuel pressure test with a gauge thinking that if the pump primes and there's pressure at the valve it couldn't be the pump.


Oil is low(21%)
Only code I have is Cam/Crank Correlation Fault
203XXX Miles

Pleeasee Help
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
Welcome to GMT Nation!!!

Will it start in neutral? Have you had a chance to check for spark at the spark plugs or the ignition coils (near impossible with the 4.2)? What's the condition of your air filter? Will it start using starting fluid?

For the CEL:
Check the plug connection on the VVT solenoid. Inside the connector, if there is oil sitting in the connector then the VVT solenoid is bad/going bad. If you see no oil in the connector, I would remove both the VVT solenoid and the cam sensor and clean them both off to start with. That VVT solenoid gets dirty and has a metal screen that gets dislodged (with the older model VVT solenoids).

For the metal tapping and shaking:
Does the metal tapping sound like it's coming from inside the engine or in the engine bay? Can you see the engine mounts? Do they looked cracked/weathered/or leaking fluid?

just to clarify... When you say that you stepped on the gas and no power was seen. Do you mean the engine RPMs did go up and there was no/little speed increase compared to the amount of fuel you were sending to the engine? If so, that sounds like a transmission issue to me. Did you check your transmission fluid level?
 

Dmauri3

Original poster
Member
Feb 20, 2020
9
Michigan
Welcome to GMT Nation!!!

Will it start in neutral? Have you had a chance to check for spark at the spark plugs or the ignition coils (near impossible with the 4.2)? What's the condition of your air filter? Will it start using starting fluid?

For the CEL:
Check the plug connection on the VVT solenoid. Inside the connector, if there is oil sitting in the connector then the VVT solenoid is bad/going bad. If you see no oil in the connector, I would remove both the VVT solenoid and the cam sensor and clean them both off to start with. That VVT solenoid gets dirty and has a metal screen that gets dislodged (with the older model VVT solenoids).

For the metal tapping and shaking:
Does the metal tapping sound like it's coming from inside the engine or in the engine bay? Can you see the engine mounts? Do they looked cracked/weathered/or leaking fluid?

just to clarify... When you say that you stepped on the gas and no power was seen. Do you mean the engine RPMs did go up and there was no/little speed increase compared to the amount of fuel you were sending to the engine? If so, that sounds like a transmission issue to me. Did you check your transmission fluid level?
Thanks Maverick, I will check the VVT solenoid asap and get back to you. The car will not start in neutral. The air filter looks kinda blackish. I'm not THE most car savvy guy but I was told light should be able to pass through the filter, no light passes through my filter. I won't lie to you I couldn't really tell if it was from the engine bay or inside the engine. My motor mounts look fine they're a little rusty but so is everything else. And yes, the rpms would shoot up if i floor the gas, but 0 movement. It'll literally creep forward maybe from the forces of the earth lol. I was actually about to check the trans fluid but the car was running so badly I wanted to shut it down for a second, but I couldn't get it to start back up. I doubt a cold trans check would help? I haven't seen any signs of leaks, not that it couldn't be a possibility.
 
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Dmauri3

Original poster
Member
Feb 20, 2020
9
Michigan
VVT solenoid connector is dry, but the female that the connector goes into that's attached to the solenoid I can visually see that is oily( shiny and a tad bit greasy ). I haven't tested for spark or tried starter fluid yet. I was told that my fuel pump is bad and a new fuel pump will be put in tomorrow. Could that be a cause? I'd hate to waste $300 if I don't have to.
 

Dmauri3

Original poster
Member
Feb 20, 2020
9
Michigan
Also if it helps, when cranking it sounds like the engine actually starts for a split second then dies immediately after and it keeps doing that as long as that key is turned. It doesn't just keep crank and crank. Could the engine not be getting enough fuel?
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
First replace that VVT Solenoid. What's the condition of your engine oil, mileage on the current oil that is in the engine and what is the engine oil level at? We love pictures!

I would at least check the trans fluid cold to see if, even while cold the fluid is visible on the dip stick. The color and smell of fluid is important as well. If it is brown/dark red, does it smell burnt.

I would remove the air filter until you can get it started. You probably need to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) as well. Only use a can that says Mass Air flow cleaner, do not use brake cleaner or anything else, it'll ruin the sensor.

Try starting it using some starting fluid. If you have a friend available, have them start spraying into the throttle bottle as you attempt to start the vehicle. Otherwise, if you alone spray starting fluid into the throttle body for a second and then attempt to start it. It will only run for about a second or two.

Have you tried to scan it again to see if you have any new codes? What type of scanner do you have and what app are you using to read the codes from the scanner?

Could be a fuel issue. Let's fix what we know is not working or needs to be replaced first though.

Edit: Only buy an ACDelco VVT solenoid. These engines are VERY picky when it comes to electrical parts. If you dare to buy other aftermarket parts, do not buy Dorman.
 
Last edited:

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
Where abouts in MI do you live. I might be able to give you a hand this weekend. I'm in the Sterling Heights area. You can just PM if you don't want GMT Nation to know what city you live in.
 

Dmauri3

Original poster
Member
Feb 20, 2020
9
Michigan
First replace that VVT Solenoid. What's the condition of your engine oil, mileage on the current oil that is in the engine and what is the engine oil level at? We love pictures!

I would at least check the trans fluid cold to see if, even while cold the fluid is visible on the dip stick. The color and smell of fluid is important as well. If it is brown/dark red, does it smell burnt.

I would remove the air filter until you can get it started. You probably need to clean the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) as well. Only use a can that says Mass Air flow cleaner, do not use brake cleaner or anything else, it'll ruin the sensor.

Try starting it using some starting fluid. If you have a friend available, have them start spraying into the throttle bottle as you attempt to start the vehicle. Otherwise, if you alone spray starting fluid into the throttle body for a second and then attempt to start it. It will only run for about a second or two.

Have you tried to scan it again to see if you have any new codes? What type of scanner do you have and what app are you using to read the codes from the scanner?

Could be a fuel issue. Let's fix what we know is not working or needs to be replaced first though.
I got my oil changed 4,000 miles ago when I first bought the truck. Oil level is at 21%. I will check the trans fluid. I will also clean the MAF and get back to you on the trans fluid condition. If my car starts with starter fluid would that confirm that my no start situation is fuel related? I'd love to rule out that expensive a** fuel pump, but I don't have a pressure gauge. I don't personally have a scanner tool, I had a mechanic friend over for help. I will get it scanned asap as well.
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
That's not far at all. I have a Tech II we could verify exactly what's wrong with it, if you want. Leave me a PM with your phone number, if you're interested and we can work on a day and time.
 

Dmauri3

Original poster
Member
Feb 20, 2020
9
Michigan
He isn't referring to "level".... that's the display output telling him how much "service time" is left. BE VERY SCARED that this poster is referring to this as a measure of his oil. :smile:
Lol if that is the case I apologize, the dipstick level is also low. Its on the first notch labeled " L ".
 

Maverick6587

Member
Dec 16, 2018
730
Sterling Heights, Michigan
I would say you need an oil change with the VVT solenoid being an issue and having 4,000 miles on the oil but, just just top it off for now.
 

Dmauri3

Original poster
Member
Feb 20, 2020
9
Michigan
I would say you need an oil change with the VVT solenoid being an issue and having 4,000 miles on the oil but, just just top it off for now.
I was already planning on getting the oil changed at 205xxx, will fill it up until then. Trans fluid is a darkish red color, it didn't really smell burnt either. There was a faint burnt smell when I first pulled it out but when I cleaned it and stuck it back in to check it didn't smell burnt.
 

budwich

Member
Jun 16, 2013
2,045
kanata
do yourself a big favor.... post a picture of the instrument panel when you just turn the key to ON (not start). That will help both the forum and you figure out what is happening with out any "misdirection" / "misinterpretation".
 
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