Crank, but won't start

Gold6ix_

Original poster
Member
Feb 5, 2020
22
Denver
So long story short, went to the junk yard and found a trailblazer. What I thought would be a simple 10 minute job turned into an hour, that connector doesnt go to the ignition coils or the fuel injectors. Its about 7 wires that leads down into the engine bay, and after trying to trace them so see where they go (mixed in with a bundle of maybe 20 + other wires) I realized I'd have to do that same thing in my truck in order to replace the whole wiring. So I just took the connector and went down about a foot and cut it. So I'm going to use that to repair mine.

As for the repair, wouldn't something like these work? --------->
TICONN 6543871333 200PCS Heat Shrink Connectors Kit, Insulated Waterproof Electrical Marine Automotive Wire Crimp Terminals, Butt Splice (3 Colors / 3 Sizes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCPFPD2/?tag=gmtnation-20
 

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xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,324
Staten Island, N.Y
As for the repair, wouldn't something like these work? --------->
TICONN 6543871333 200PCS Heat Shrink Connectors Kit, Insulated Waterproof Electrical Marine Automotive Wire Crimp Terminals, Butt Splice (3 Colors / 3 Sizes) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCPFPD2/?tag=gmtnation-20

Get out your soldering iron and some heat shrink. I wouldn't use those connectors do to the many bad reviews I've seen on youtube. Hifi Vega from 12volt talk just recently did a review on them and I'm totally against them for any repair.
 
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Gold6ix_

Original poster
Member
Feb 5, 2020
22
Denver
Get out your soldering iron and some heat shrink. I wouldn't use those connectors do to the many bad reviews I've seen on youtube. Hifi Vega from 12volt talk just recently did a review on them and I'm totally against them for any repair.


I just watched the vega video, what I was planning on doing was using those connectors and crimping them down to "connect" the wires and heating the ends to seal them, then tape them all off with electrical tape. I seen he showed and said that heating them doesnt make a solid soldering connection but at the and he said he'd rather crimp them down. So I'm sort of lost on that. I looked for the 12volt talk video on it but couldn't find it.
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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@xavierny25 has nailed down the best way to get this job done once and for all. Using Thin, Pure Silver, Rosin Core Solder is best for Bonding Stranded Copper Wire Pairs together, followed by carefully covering the bonded connections by completely Heat Shrink Wrapping each one.

Using Common Black Vinyl Electrician's Tape is a BIG NO-NO... You'd just be asking for more trouble as this kind of Tape is ill-suited for the constant exposure these Harnesses endure what with the High (and LOW) Temperatures and often Extreme Weather conditions that are always present close to the Engine and Transmission layouts.

For only $11.00 on Amazon... THIS is the Marine Grade (Dual Sealant) Heat Shrink Insulator Kit you will want to have available for this important repair. The Glue Sealant prevents the Pure Copper Wires from oxidizing in the open air and and the elements increasing the electrical resistance along and through each and every paired wire segment:


MARINEGRADEHEATSHRINK1.jpgMARINEGRADEHEATSHRINK.jpg
 
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Gold6ix_

Original poster
Member
Feb 5, 2020
22
Denver
@xavierny25 has nailed down the best way to get this job done once and for all. Using Thin, Pure Silver, Rosin Core Solder is best for Bonding Stranded Copper Wire Pairs together, followed by carefully covering the bonded connections by completely Heat Shrink Wrapping each one.

Using Common Black Vinyl Electrician's Tape is a BIG NO-NO... You'd just be asking for more trouble as this kind of Tape is ill-suited for the constant exposure these Harnesses endure what with the High (and LOW) Temperatures and often Extreme Weather conditions that are always present close to the Engine and Transmission layouts.

For only $11.00 on Amazon... THIS is the Marine Grade (Dual Sealant) Heat Shrink Insulator Kit you will want to have available for this important repair. The Glue Sealant prevents the Pure Copper Wires from oxidizing in the open air and and the elements increasing the electrical resistance along and through each and every paired wire segment:


View attachment 93187View attachment 93188

I'm somewhat limited on what I can do with the car being out in the parking lot and not having any plug ins.
It would still be a bad idea to wrap the bundle of wires in electrical tape once they're repaired? That's how I was going to use it, it seems theres black tape on the already present wiring from that factory that's hardened. And for that marine grade insulation kit, that's as simple as just sticking in the wires and heating it up to shrink wrap it? Or would I need to place that over a butt connector or something? (I may just YouTube it real quick).
 

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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Tampa Bay Area
Bluntly speaking... "FORGET using Butt Connectors" altogether. The PCM Signalling and the 12 Volts DC and 0-7 Volts DC Power and Class 2 Network communications will NOT like you for skipping the Soldering needed to return things to a "Solid State" conditions that these repairs call for.

The GM OEM Pale Gray-Black Wire Wrapping seems to come from another Universe and is generally hard to find. There is another protective, "Non-Adhesive" solution you can try that should keep the bundled wires inside relatively secure (AFTER Each and Every One is Silver Soldered and Heat Shrink Protected) by using Automotive Split Black Plastic Wire Looming (Harness Looms). These are inexpensive and also available on Amazon:


AUTOWIRELOOMS.jpg

Doubly Securing the ODs on these with Nylon Zip Ties seems a great way to solve the problem. If you ever have to re-examine anything wrapped up in Common Black Vinyl Electrician's Tape and are expecting an EZ Job of it ...Well after the Engine cooks that stuff through into a Gooey Mess via a few Heating and Cooling Cycles...Good Luck.
 
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