NEED HELP Couple questions bout my TB

[Legendaryt2]

Hi I'm new to this site, I have a 2005 TB 4x4 4.2.

First major thing I'd like to know is I'm in need of a left rear axle. Truck was hit on the left side do the wheel and axle wobbles.

A) should I try to find just an axle (hard to come across so far or I got a price of $300)
B) replace the whole rear end

I also tried to find a DIY for a rear end swap but my searches gives me either a front axle replacement or a DIY for a Suburban. I never did this type of work before and I'm a novice with no access to a shop or plenty tools, but I have tackled other DIY jobs (removing cylinder heads from a Cressida and Audi A4) that had instructions and a layout of tools needed. Does anyone know of a DIY for a rear end swap?

The other thing is I'm only getting heat from just the driver side vents. The passenger side is only getting cold air even though the passenger switch is at the top of its movement (in the red)

Any help is greatly appreciated, thanks

 

[Matt]

You've probably lost the actuator for the HVAC, that's why the vents aren't working the way they should.

Just looking at Rock auto, you can get the axle shaft, bearing, lock c-clip, pilot bearing and shaft seal for about $170. The alternative is finding a complete axle, with the right gear ratio, at a junk yard.

 

[Bill Reid]

If the axle was hit hard enough to bend the axle hub there is a possibility that the axle tube end could also be bent. If possible I would at least check that first. If not possible you might look at a local junkyard to see if you can find a whole differential with same gears still on the truck. Tough call to buy an axle with the possibility of it not (completely) solving the problem.

 

[Legendaryt2]

I seen quite a few with the same ratios, complete ranging from $150-250. So if I go that route is there a DIY on how to remove and replace the assembly? Haynes just tell me on 9 sentences how to remove an axle assembly smh. Pictures are better for dummies like me.

 

[Bill Reid]

I am definitely a picture guy myself

... however, complete diff swaps aren't too bad if you think it through and do not disconnect brakes lines if you don't have too. Recommend a buddy and a couple of jacks and plenty of heavy duty wire ties to tie everything not coming out - out of the way.

I replaced the 10 bolt diff in my 06 Silverado with a 14 bolt without having to disconnect the brake lines. I did it by myself but in retrospect wish I had a buddy. Just dealing with springs and, initially, a free axle on a jack can be a pain the first time.

And your other problem... sounds like temp actuators are toast. Not too bad to replace. Try searching for fixes here and I've seen a couple You Tube Vids that at least tell you where they are. There are instructions to pull a fuse, forget which one, and explaining the calibration routine after replacement. We can help you here when you are ready to tackle the actuator replacement. For actuators I have bought OEM replacements. I've replaced the Mode and Recirc actuators myself. From what I've seen the temp actuators are the easiest to replace...

 

[Sparky]

Where are you located? A rear axle swap isn't overly hard. The hardest part is the sheer weight of the thing more than actually bolting it up. I've done a few rear axle swaps in a couple different vehicles now (4th gen Camaro and a couple Trailblazers, mine and Matt's above actually) and it can be done in an afternoon. All you really need is a good set of metric wrenches/sockets, though the U joint bolts are 7/16" IIRC (go figure).

When I did mine I had to chase the threads on the yoke on the donor axle because they had some rust from sitting so the bolts didn't want to thread easily and I didn't want to risk snapping one since they aren't that big. Can't remember what the thread size and pitch are though.

You don't have to disconnect brake lines, just hang the rear calipers up out of the way.

 

[Matt]

A rattle gun is a big help changing the rear end too.

 

[Sparky]

Very true. First two I did was with hand tools only, but taking my impact to your truck's rear axle was a lot easier!

 

[Legendaryt2]

Well so far I have basic tool set, 1 basic Jack and Jack stands, no help or garage/driveway and I'm in NYC. Lol

 

[JimInRadfordVA]

Don't forget the PB Blaster! Soak all the bolts everyday for 2-3 days before you start.

Swapping the rear is not difficult. The hard part is managing the weight. And don't forget to change the diff fluid while you are at it.

 

[Legendaryt2]

Now I gotta figure out how I'm getting the axle assembly from the junkyard to where I'm gonna install it and then bring them back the core.

 

[Matt]

I put mine in the back of my truck, but you'll need another guy, 3 if you can get them.

 

[JimInRadfordVA]

Now I gotta figure out how I'm getting the axle assembly from the junkyard to where I'm gonna install it and then bring them back the core.

Know anybody with a Trailblazer? (Ducks and runs...)

 

[Sparky]

Yeah it will fit in the back of the TB if you fold the seats down, and throw down a tarp.

 

[WHY]

Yeah it will fit in the back of the TB if you fold the seats down, and throw down a tarp.

Roadie had an axle/rear end change a few years ago. When at the other site. Do not know if he transferred it to here or not, check.

 

[jsheahawk]

Well so far I have basic tool set, 1 basic Jack and Jack stands, no help or garage/driveway and I'm in NYC. Lol

That might be a problem.

 

[Legendaryt2]

I think I'll just find someone to put it in then... Also I'm in need of a black driver rear door for a standard wheelbase model by Sunday if anyone has one or know someone parting out one. Idk what code black I have but I have the code sticker in my glove box.

 

[Matt]

http://www.car-part.com/

 

[Legendaryt2]

So new problem arises, I have 92k on the truck and felt it might be down on power or that my antennae shakes at idle. Changed my plugs to NGK Iridium and it idles the same but when I'm cruising coming over a crest, it misfires intermittent, until the trans kickdown. But that's the only time I get a noticeable misfire. I did notice in taking out what I assume were the original plugs (AC Delco) the #6 plug threads were rusted.

I'd really like to get this figured out Cuz it's annoying and the route I took was barely hilly, however, my work commute six days a week consists of a lot of hills.

 

[Matt]

Always use AC Delco 41-103 plugs in the 4.2. Any other plugs make it run like crap for some reason.

 

[Legendaryt2]

Aww really... I read somewhere the NGKs were good if not better. I even declined the salesman recommendation to use the AC Delco... That's $60 wasted

 

[Legendaryt2]

Any idea why plug #6 was rusted at the threads?

 

[Sparky]

Water tends to drip from the cowling (poor hood seal) and can get down the plug wells. The head is aluminum so the threads aren't rusted there. How bad was the plug rusted?

 

[Legendaryt2]

I did take a pic but it wouldn't upload... It did give problems coming out a bit... However it was very noticeable.

 

[mrrsm]

Regarding the intermittent stumble...when time permits...checkout the many posts here on GMT Nation that cover Replacing/Cleaning the CPAS and CPS actuator/sensors located at the front passenger side of the GM 4.2L Engine. They will conspire to make the engine stagger and stumble from time to time if either clogged and dirty... or simply inoperative.

This Post includes imagery showing the CPAS and CPS Location and replacement info:
http://gmtnation.org/forums/threads/used-4-2l-engine-replacement.15185/#post-493187

This Post has Visuals and The Solution Instructions about "Water in Spark Plug Holes:
http://gmtnation.org/forums/threads/water-in-spark-plug-chamber.13572/

This Post echoes @Sparky from above about "Water in Spark Plug Holes":
http://gmtnation.org/forums/threads/water-sitting-in-sparkplug-holes.3905/#post-220054

This last Post is a VERY Comprehensive & Contemporary Post on "How To Change Spark Plugs"
http://gmtnation.org/forums/threads/changing-spark-plugs.15361/#post-498073:

 

[Legendaryt2]

Ok so I swapped out the NGK plugs for AC Delco and the misfire is gone. However a day later, I proceeded to clean the throttle body and it wasn't bad. 93k and it was a slight copper color nothing black so I cleaned it out anyway so the butterfly is now gold and housing is grey. Disconnected both PCM fuses and the battery during the job.

So during the time after installing the AC Delco plugs it idles butter smooth (no shake in antenna) after the TB clean it still idles smooth but the same way as before I changed out the original 93k AC Delco plugs (antenna shakes) I did not change the O2 sensor and wondering if that is the the last piece that should be done?

Also where the heck can I find a good spare tire carrier?

 

[Matt]

Unless it's throwing a code, don't worry about the O2 sensor.

The spare tire carrier, you'll either have to go to a junk yard or buy one new off Rockauto or somewhere similar.

 

[jsheahawk]

Also where the heck can I find a good spare tire carrier?

I had mine seize up years ago. Of course you only find out when you need your spare! I found a functional one at a junk yard for $30. It's just a few bolts holding it on. Now I lower it and spray lubricant up into the crank every time I change the oil.

 

[mrrsm]

I know you'll want to take a swing at my chin for asking... But...since the "Tire Wire" and Grappler Hook that holds in the Spare Tire works via a basic Worm Gear is generally solid state... are you absolutely certain that it has not simply been wound back up under the rear framing ...way up in there ...and stuck in there Tighter than Two Ticks on a Hound's Belly? I can't imagine it not still being way up under there... unless the prior owner let it hanging down loose after changing a flat... and snagged it when passing over a Rail-Road Crossing, snapping it off.

 

[Legendaryt2]

Bought the truck without one and no spare. Bought the spare first then realized there's no carrier so now it takes up space in the rear

 

[Sparky]

Mine still works, I had replaced it a few years ago and have kept it lubed up. I'm parting my TB out (rotted frame) so I'll sell you mine if you want.

 

[Legendaryt2]

How Much and where u located?

 

[Sparky]

I'm in Ohio. Let me pull it from the truck first just to be on the safe side that it is still all OK (should be, like I said it works fine) and then we'll talk the rest.

 

[Legendaryt2]

Ok great

 

[Mooseman]

Just in case you are contemplating getting a new replacement, the Dorman unit is not recommended if you live in the rust belt:
http://gmtnation.com/forums/threads/dorman-now-has-spare-tire-hoists.9454/

 

[Legendaryt2]

Didnt know they had new ones available but thanks.

 

[Legendaryt2]

What should I do it try next about this slightly rough idle I have?

 

[jsheahawk]

I know you'll want to take a swing at my chin for asking... But...since the "Tire Wire" and Grappler Hook that holds in the Spare Tire works via a basic Worm Gear is generally solid state... are you absolutely certain that it has not simply been wound back up under the rear framing ...way up in there ...and stuck in there Tighter than Two Ticks on a Hound's Belly? I can't imagine it not still being way up under there... unless the prior owner let it hanging down loose after changing a flat... and snagged it when passing over a Rail-Road Crossing, snapping it off.

What happens is the cable rusts together on the spool after it gets wet.

 

[Legendaryt2]

So doing a bit of researching, for my fuel gauge issue I only change the stepper motor if the needles doesn't move at all and the fuel level sensor (complete pump) if the needle does move but doesn't display the correct level right? I also read that the ground for the sensor (or something like that) could be rusted out and it is possible to clean the contacts for that ground and things should work again.

 

[mrrsm]

If you have decent Soldering & Wicking/Vacuuming skills... if you are replacing one gauge.... you might consider just doing them all at the same time. Whatever forces conspire to make one dial sketchy... have probably been working on the rest of them with equal vigour as well. Incidentally... there are some excellent Dashboard Gauge Re-Fit Videos on Youtube that have also show and explain that the location where the Large Connector Pin Set penetrating the Green Board at the center bottom of the unit will show signs of lead-oxide corrosion and that lightly "hitting" the Pin Matrix on the Green Board with either a Butane Flame or a very small Soldering Tip will re-melt and revitalize all the various contact points and eliminate those from being the causes of the erratic behaviours. Otherwise... they'll keep raising their Ugly Heads from time to time and drive a person crazy when trying to dope out what the Hell is Wrong with those Brand New Gauges!