Coolant Temperature/Thermostat Question

[GreenBravada]

Just a quick question: I have an OBDII Bluetooth setup fully function using the Torque app. When warmed up, my coolant stabilizes at 207-209 degrees F. My understanding is that this engine takes a 190 thermostat. Are these temps just within the tolerances of this style of engine thermostat, or should I replace it with a new one to try to get it down to 190 F?

Main reason I am asking is because I am going to be flushing the cooling system as thoroughly as I can, so now would be the time to do that replacement. Also replacing hoses.

My situation is that I will be towing an 1900 lb pop-up camper, and I'm trying to make things easy on the drivetrain. I'll be taking two short trips before long and then a long one in August.

I'm also installing a small plate and fin trans oil cooler I had on hand which is very compact and good for 11,500 BTU.

Thanks.

 

[TJBaker57]

Mine runs at 206°F and that is entirely normal.

 

[GreenBravada]

Thank you! I'm doing a lot to what might have been deferred maintenance so that I know where I stand with a car that basically works quite well. I'll skip fooling with the alternator to get at the thermostat. I appreciate the feedback.

 

[Mooseman]

The one thing to check is that your fan is working correctly but I think this was already discussed. There's nothing worse than towing with the A/C blasting, the temps go up and the A/C can't cool at idle when the fan doesn't engage when commanded to. There are two methods to check it. This one is without any special tools or scanners:
How to test the electro-viscous fan clutch

And the other method involves using your Bluetooth adapter and some software that @TJBaker57 would be able to guide you through where you would command the fan for a speed and then read the speed you get.

 

[GreenBravada]

The one thing to check is that your fan is working correctly but I think this was already discussed. There's nothing worse than towing with the A/C blasting, the temps go up and the A/C can't cool at idle when the fan doesn't engage when commanded to. There are two methods to check it. This one is without any special tools or scanners:
How to test the electro-viscous fan clutch

And the other method involves using your Bluetooth adapter and some software that @TJBaker57 would be able to guide you through where you would command the fan for a speed and then read the speed you get.

I've stopped it with a rag and let it go again, but I think that was after the engine was warm, like after a drive. I'll try it again tomorrow when it's cold. Should it be moving at all when the engine is below operating temperature, or should there always be some drag on the clutch to move the fan?

Either way, I've never heard it roaring like an airplane, and the engine temp is extremely stable.

 

[Mooseman]

It has to be completely warmed up or hot. If you can, turn on the A/C so the fan runs at a minimum. Wait a little and if it still just freewheels and easy to stop, it's likely toast.

It will always be moving, even if it's not up to temp, just from friction. Testing it cold is useless and dangerous as it could be engaged or the fluid is just thick from being cold.