Coolant in Oil, Low Oil Pressure Light Fluctuations

Troy

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
18
2002 TB 239,346 miles

I smell antifreeze every time I turn on the rear air conditioner or heater. So, thinking that the rear is the reason my TB has been losing antifreeze and running hotter than 210, I decided not to use the rear. April 11, 2013 my 2002 TB ran hot, light came on telling me to idle engine, I did, and turned it off for 20 minutes. Tried to make it home, light came back on, so I turned the engine off and had it towed to Pep Boys who replaced the heater core valve, thermostat, and radiator cap. A month later I could still smell hints of antifreeze and my temperature gauge was to the right of 210, more like 216. So, I installed a coolant sensor next to the thermostat. After all of that, I could still smell hints of antifreeze. So, I sprayed the engine with water thinking I would wash any leftover antifreeze away. June 2013, it is losing antifreeze somewhere. No antifreeze on the ground and no visible leaking. I have to put 2 quarts of antifreeze back into the radiator every two weeks. July 2013, still drinking antifreeze and now a P0014 code. Checked oil, looked under oil cap, noticed coffee looking foam and cleaned it. Took off sensor behind power steering pump, cleaned screens which had black gunk covering 3 screened port holes, sea foamed the injectors and oil. Poured gas treatment in the tank. Got an oil change. Code came back after a few days. Erased it with scan tool. Two weeks running strong without codes. August 5, 2013, still drinking antifreeze, and today low oil pressure light came on as I was pulling into a parking spot. When I got home, I checked the oil cap, oil dip stick and watched through the oil cap hole to to see if I would see any foam. No foam and the oil looked was without foam. I am wondering if the head gaskets are the problem? If so, what are my options and costs?
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Welcome! First of all, you need to change your profile from a 4.3 V6, to a 4.2 I6. :poke:

I would perform a leakdown/pressure test of the cooling system. You may have a faulty heater core in the front but coffee-colored oil is bad. What does the dipstick look like, any coffee?

Did you replace the antifreeze with Dexcool?

You may have a bad head gasket, do you get any white smoke from the exhaust or is there a faint smell of antifreeze from exhaust when you start it cold?
 

Troy

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
18
Changed profile to I6.

Dipstick is like honey, no foam.

66 Degrees F outside, started TB white exhaust quickly cleared within seconds. Exhaust smells like a new car. No smell of antifreeze.

My antifreeze is mixed. There is some Prestone for all makes and models, add to any color, and Prestone, Dex Cool.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
can you post a pic of th can you post a pic of the dipstick I definitely would not drive it until you figure out what's going on before you destroy the bearings if they are not already toast.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I honestly wish I knew how I can type something up on this phone hit submit and have the words totally changed
 

Ilikemy3s

Member
Dec 3, 2011
367
I would flusha all the anitfreeze out and fill with just Dexicool .. that is after you do a leak down test. Just my 2 cents
 

Troy

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
18
I forgot to inquire when I had the oil changed. So, I Called Just Tires and inquired about the oil being milky. They advised me that it wasn't and that they would have told me to get it checked out.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Do you know if the engine was ever overheated? Definately need to get that oil out of there.
 

v7guy

Member
Dec 4, 2011
298
I can't tell much from the pictures to be honest.

experience has taught me that if there's oil and coolant mixed that it's probably the head gasket. Higher than usual engine temp, low oil pressure and mysteriously vanishing coolant also points to the same thing. It sounds like the gasket is just seeping though and it's not fully blown if you're just getting some white smoke at start up.

You can pull the spark plugs out and see if any are white. The coolant leaking into the cylinder will turn to steam when the motor starts and create the white exhaust you see and it'll also steam clean the plug turning it white. Any significant amount of coolant in the oil will fairly quickly destroy the crank and rod bearings in the motor (think full rebuild of the motor). I'd be careful how you proceed. It can go from a mildly expensive repair to a very expensive repair pretty quick.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
A better description of what oil would look like with coolant or water in it is it looks like a brownish milkshake, completely opaque. Those pics don't look like that.

Did you check at the right rear of the truck for coolant drips? Could be the rear heater core that has failed. I had that and did replace it: http://gmtnation.com/f23/how-replace-rear-heater-core-without-conversion-kit-474/ but still have not been able to use rear heat due to dead actuators but honestly, I would just cut off the hoses to it and bypass it. Even if you don't use the rear heat, coolant would still be pressurized in it despite the valve.

Also check the heater hose that goes into the block just above the exhaust pipe. Could be dripping onto the pipe and evaporating, not leaving any trace.
 

Troy

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
18
I took my TB to the second mechanic /the guy who works on it when I can't or lack the tools. He assured me that the oil isn't being mixed with coolant and that it may be the second heater core in the rear despite the fact I do not turn on the rear heater. The View attachment 30075coolant still flows through the core. With that said, I removed the rear panel and notice part of the heater core looking like it had better days. I did notice a drip of antifreeze drop from the rear outlet. I am bent on seeing it drip enough that I am comfortable enough to say, yes that is where I am losing antifreeze.
I changed the plugs a month ago. I didn't notice anything peculiar about them. I always compare them to the plugs I pulled previously. But I'll double check the plugs and look at the heater hose going into the block. This is my second time this morning cleaning the CPAS within a few days apart. It was junked on three circles again. Code P0014 came on after an hour drive. I am thinking time for a serious clean. I think I'll seafoam and let stay in for 100 miles then get another oil change. I have pics of oil during second cleaning at the mouth of CPAS entry. I also cleaned my dirty throttle body. The TB runs smooth even with code.View attachment 30074
 

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gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
The oil looks like split pea soup....not alot of discoloration but not normal. The fact theres low oil pressure may point to bearing damage.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
We posted at the same time.... Definitely good you found the leak, coolant odor inside is not normally associated with head gaskets.

Need to find the cause of tan residue in oil cap,loss of oil pressure. I suggest a pressure test after leak is fixed.
 

Troy

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
18

Should I just seafoam and get an oil change after 100 miles or clean Cpas a third time, seafoam and then change oil after 100 miles?
 

Troy

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
18
Forgot to mention that my mechanic said that it was blow off. He explained, but was glad to hear coolant wasn't in oil.He said that you may see it on the cap but not on the dipstick. The low oil pressure light hasn't been on since the first incident.
 

Troy

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
18
Just pulled the CPAS here is a pic of itView attachment 30081 I was able to get a significant amount of debris on my cloth. I put my magnet to the debris to see if it was magnetic. It isn't. It was soft between my fingers and I smeared it on a towel.
 

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The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Troy said:
...It was soft between my fingers and I smeared it on a towel.
Indeed! :eek: :biggrin: :redface:

:tongue:
 

triz

Member
Apr 22, 2013
746
Looks like you have a bit of sludge in there. I would definitely change the oil. Time for you to hit me up for a free PC membership.

Has the truck overheated recently? I would keep to short oil change intervals for now.
 

Troy

Original poster
Member
Dec 29, 2012
18
Update. I cleaned the CPAS for a total of 5 times because of code P0014 and then a P1345 was pending. So, I replaced the cam sensor which is the sensor before the CPAS. So far, the TB has been so quiet, smooth and code less. :wootwoot: Now, I can tackle that coolant problem because the rear heater core is now in rare form. :mad:The TB sat all yesterday and the day before and now there is a nice puddle in the back under the spout. So, I'm ordering a Spectra Premium Heater Core with block 99276. Has anyone tried this core for the rear?:undecided:
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON

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