Code P1345

mika

Original poster
Member
Dec 6, 2011
82
Code P1345

Good morning everyone, been fighting with this code for some time now, I have replaced the cam position sensor as well as the actuator sensor, need an e-test and can’t do it with this darn light on. Has anyone else had this problem? Someone mentioned a phaser ( cam gear ) are these a problem? Or am I not seeing something Thanks
 
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mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
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It would be helpful if your Profile included the Basic 'YUMMMs' on your SUV... Year/Make/Model/Motor/Mileage. The P1345 Code is particularly troublesome because it involves correlating the Crankshaft Position with the Camshaft Phaser and Exhaust Camshaft position to ensure Timing and the Variable Advance of the Phaser within a mere ...but significant... 25 Degrees. The P1345 Code designates that the Phaser is NOT performing its Advance job...which allows the Unit to behave like an EGR Valve (Exhaust Gas Re-Cycling Valve)...something that the EPA Boys LOVE to have working properly in order to have Un-Burned Fuel sent right back through the Engine ...instead of out the Tail Pipe. If the Camshaft Phaser has failed completely... this code will remain persistent...no matter WHAT actions you take...short of replacement.

It would be helpful to know if your PCM has stored any P0014 Code(s) as well as this involves a problem with the CPAS or Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid not working because of the Filter Screens being Clogged with Black Mung. THAT one controls the flow of Motor Oil into >--- > and out of the Camshaft Phaser to allow the Exhaust Camshaft to roam comfortably within the limit of 25 Degrees of Advance or retardation. But... if your Engine Oil and Oil Filter have NOT been faithfully changed every 3,000 Miles... the unclean Oil can clog the CPAS and Cam Phaser internals with Gunk and not perform correctly.

In order for this entire arrangement to work and Act Properly... you must understand ALL of the Players on the Stage and this information should serve as a Generic Overview for anyone following this topic:

PCM:

The Power Control Module is the "Master at Arms" to manage the control of the Engine Dynamics and ensure that it reads and interprets a myriad number of Sensor Signals to keep the Engine running smoothly and efficiently.

CPAS:

The Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid provides infinite variability for the Cam Phaser to constantly adjust and re-adjust the position of the Exhaust Camshaft during a very wide range of RPM and Torque Demands. It MUST remain 'Pristeen Kleen' in order to meter Motor Oil into and out of the Camshaft Phaser. If there is Oil present inside of its external Electrical Connector... it will need to be replaced. It is located in a tube bored into the upper front Passenger side of the Engine Head and is held in place with a small Bolt. If the CPAS replacement is needed... Perform the "Engine Flush Procedures" mentioned below FIRST...so you don't wind up driving Old Sludge into the New CPAS.

CPS:

The Camshaft Position Sensor is located at the very front right side of the engine head and picks up signals from a simple Reluctor Ring in order to advise the PCM what the ABSOLUTE or ACTUAL position the Exhaust Camshaft is in at any given moment. This sensor works in combination with the CKP Sensor monitioring the ACTUAL position of the Reluctor Ring Notches on the Crankshaft to ensure Timing for Spark Ignition is correctly advanced or retarded as needed.

CKP:

The Crankshaft Position Sensor is located on the lower left, Driver's side of the engine block and is a Square Wave (Hall Effect) Sensor that reads the (7) Gaps (Notches) cut into a Reluctor Ring adjacent the #5 Piston Cylinder. This information is fed to the PCM and alerts it as to the necessity of Timing the Firing of the (6) Coil On PLugs nested atop all of the Spark Plugs. This Sensor works with the CPS when signalling the PCM to ensure the proper Advance of Timing during all RPM and Torque variations.

What To Do... First?:

The very least thing you need to do for starters... is to Check your Oil Level and look at the Color and Condition of the Motor Oil and ... eventually...Post the honest conditions you find back here. If it is Low... Black, Thick and/or Sludge laden... then follow these procedures:

(1) Perform an Engine Flush by purchasing some Cheap 5W-30 Motor Oil and a Cheap Oil Filter (6) Quarts along with (1) Quart of Motor Flush.

(2) Purchase (7) Quarts of Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 or K&N Oil Filter to change out after the Engine Flush Procedure.

(3) Start the Engine AT IDLE! Do NOT Race The Engine! ...and allow the Motor to Idle for 5-10 Minutes. Do NOT Raise and Lower the RPM!

(4) Then... immediately Change out the Cheap Oil/Cheap Oil Filter for the Mobil 1 Products listed in (2).

(5) Clear the Engine Codes and drive the vehicle for 15 Minutes under varying RPM demands... Do NOT Race the Vehicle... just put the SUV through its normal paces.

(6) Note any changes in performance or the Absence of any Codes... and if any get thrown or the CEL comes on... Post your observations back here.
 
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mika

Original poster
Member
Dec 6, 2011
82
Well thank you very much for the full detail of the A to Z on the subject. I will do the engine flush as you mentioned, I did change the cam actuator, also the cam sensor, fresh oil, cleaned TB and did the sea foam through brake booster, put some in the oil and in the gas tank, but didn’t do an engine flush.. I will re post shortly
 
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djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,950
North Las Vegas
We need the details of your vehicle, we can't even see it in your profile.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
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