Cluster LED Recomondations

steveO

Original poster
Member
Apr 6, 2012
91
I'm looking to replace the lamps with LED's they are staring to burn out so I assume it wont be long be fore more of them go.
I've seen the threads about calibration of the gauges etc but it seems that a sort of trial and error takes place in some cases as to what LED is used.

I'm going to put white back in, I was looking for advise as to what is the best LED spec to achieve these best brightness without any dead spots.
So far I think the package is 5mm flat top, to get the best light dispersal with 470 ohm resistors. Color temp I assume should be in the 6800K range

Thanks
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
steveO said:
I'm looking to replace the lamps with LED's they are staring to burn out so I assume it wont be long be fore more of them go.
I've seen the threads about calibration of the gauges etc but it seems that a sort of trial and error takes place in some cases as to what LED is used.

I'm going to put white back in, I was looking for advise as to what is the best LED spec to achieve these best brightness without any dead spots.
So far I think the package is 5mm flat top, to get the best light dispersal with 470 ohm resistors. Color temp I assume should be in the 6800K range

Thanks

If you look at the backside of the cluster face, you'll see some clear plastic ramps. 2 on the tach, 2 on the speedo, and 1 on each of the 4 smaller guages. This piece of plastic causes some minor hot spotting, so it's hard to be completely hot spot free.

As for the magic question of "what's the brightest" there's really no perfect answer. For the most part, the specs on LEDs are gonna be nearly the same. You can try comparing the MCD ratings on them, but it also comes down to the voltage you supply to it through your resistor choice.
 

ksimm92

Member
Apr 28, 2012
166
I just did this about 2 weeks ago!

I soldered white LED's on my cluster along with new steppers. It came out blue because of the tinting in the overlay. I used tape and made a mark on the resting spot before moving the needles, it worked perfect.

as far as the MCD's I used 20,000MCD 5mm flat top 3.2-3.4v white LED's.

I used 820ohm resisters for turn signals, cruse, and brights. they are the perfect brightness.

for the the rest I used 520ohm resisters and there are a few hot spots which I expected, but it spread out better then I thought it would and there are no dark spots. :yes:

I would recommend using 1/2 watt resisters, I tested 1/4 watt resisters on my power supply and they heated up quite a bit.

View attachment 20738
 

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steveO

Original poster
Member
Apr 6, 2012
91
ksimm92 said:
I just did this about 2 weeks ago!

I soldered white LED's on my cluster along with new steppers. It came out blue because of the tinting in the overlay. I used tape and made a mark on the resting spot before moving the needles, it worked perfect.

as far as the MCD's I used 20,000MCD 5mm flat top 3.2-3.4v white LED's.

I used 820ohm resisters for turn signals, cruse, and brights. they are the perfect brightness.

for the the rest I used 520ohm resisters and there are a few hot spots which I expected, but it spread out better then I thought it would and there are no dark spots. :yes:

I would recommend using 1/2 watt resisters, I tested 1/4 watt resisters on my power supply and they heated up quite a bit.


Thanks for your reply and Bckshdw as well !

So you reduced the voltage on the turn signals, cruse, and brights. Probably could use a different LED on them?
Is the heat due to the 20,000 MCD? I guess I will have to do the calculation to be sure the resistors the proper wattage.
 

Joshtradamus

Member
Apr 22, 2012
15
I pretty sure when talking about the tempurature of light, 4300 Kelvin is the brightest. Anything more reduces light and adds a blue tint. My two cents.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Joshtradamus said:
I pretty sure when talking about the tempurature of light, 4300 Kelvin is the brightest. Anything more reduces light and adds a blue tint. My two cents.

That's true moreso with HIDs with the blue tint. LEDs come in lots of colors, some of which aren't blue, although that seems to be the only color I buy. :wink: Any of the 3 shades of white: warm (4300K), neutral (5000K), or cool (6000K) are going to be bright as shit compared to your stock bulbs now. :biggrin: :cool:
 

ksimm92

Member
Apr 28, 2012
166
steveO said:
Thanks for your reply and Bckshdw as well !

So you reduced the voltage on the turn signals, cruse, and brights. Probably could use a different LED on them?
Is the heat due to the 20,000 MCD? I guess I will have to do the calculation to be sure the resistors the proper wattage.


you could probably use a lower MCD, i only used them because i had ordered a whole bag full of them so it was easier for me. I got a pack of resistors at my local fry's.

I used an online calculator and it said to use 1/2 watt resistors. I tested the 1/4 just cause i had some, they are smaller so i figured if it worked that might be better, they just heated up WAY to much.

my guess is just too much current for them??:confused::confused:
 

steveO

Original poster
Member
Apr 6, 2012
91
ksimm92 said:
you could probably use a lower MCD, i only used them because i had ordered a whole bag full of them so it was easier for me. I got a pack of resistors at my local fry's.

I used an online calculator and it said to use 1/2 watt resistors. I tested the 1/4 just cause i had some, they are smaller so i figured if it worked that might be better, they just heated up WAY to much.

my guess is just too much current for them??:confused::confused:

My Envoy reads 14.5 volts

I just ordered

560ohm 1/2 watt resistors
5MM 20,000 MCD 3.0- 3.4 V, 24 ma LED's

I'll play with a larger resistor value for the turn, cruse and brights

Definitively need 1/2 watt resistors they exceed 1/4 watt value at this voltage.
It's not a good idea to push the 1/4 watt to the max anyway, I would stay at 90% at max of the power rating.
 

steveO

Original poster
Member
Apr 6, 2012
91
It went fairly well with a few cautions I will address.

I used 560ohm 1/2 watt resistors and 5MM 20,000 MCD 3.0- 3.4 V, 24 ma LED's for the bulbs that were strictly for illumination of the cluster.

I used 1k ohm 1/4 watt resistors and 5MM 20,000 MCD 3.0- 3.4 V, 24 ma LED's for the bulbs for cruse, directionals and brights.

The unexpected:
When removing the needles from the gauges I pulled the shaft out of the Temp and Fuel servo motors. I was very careful but maybe due to age the shafts stayed with the indicator needle. I was able to take them apart and put the shafts back in and applied a drop of super glue to them at the top where the shaft extends out of the plastic.
I had an issue with the MPH servo when I reinstalled the needle which caused me to disassemble things again. I had to take the MPH servo apart and do the same thing as I did to the others.

I had a bad LED for one of the directionals, this was no issue as I replaced it before assembling everything.
The cruse LED did not work and that was because I guessed at the polarity,this LED does not use the same ground as the others.
The picture I used that showed a cluster for the Trailblazer noting the cruse polarity is the opposite for the Envoy.


Edit: I found a picture of both DIC and NonDIC Clusters thanks to BLCKSHDW
I have a DIC cluster (top photo)


http://gmtnation.com/f33/led-mod-thread-944/index2.html#post24791


Other than the above it was an easy job. My repair job on the servos might be difficult for those who don't have experience with the repair of very fine or small parts.
You can unsnap the top of the servo without unsoldering them to do the repair. The first one I unsoldered and realized I didn't need to.

Now on to the HVAC and Bose for LED mods but first I need a few new knobs for the Bose.
 

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