I'm tracking down a clunking noise and it sounds like it's originating from under this pan. Is this the drain pain and what does 4L and that symbol mean?
Clunking noise and getting oriented.
- Thread starter coolride
- Start date
Also, on the driver's side of the pan (and just ahead of the transmission bell housing) is a good sized hole next to a smaller threaded hole. What is this and is something missing from here?
Mooseman
Moderator
All those look like the oil pan. That large hole may be to access the rear pan to block bolt. There should be another one just like it on the other side. No idea what the 4L is for.
A bit of trivia: those threaded holes are to help remove the oil pan to break the seal.
A bit of trivia: those threaded holes are to help remove the oil pan to break the seal.
Ok cool, that explains the small hole with threads.
I guess that logo is a stylized T c (just noticed that now.)
I guess that logo is a stylized T c (just noticed that now.)
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I just ran to Walmart and picked up oil and a new filter. The level reads high up on the dip stick (above the bulb and into the cable.) Maybe the noise I hear is the crank hitting the oil.
It's a long shot I know. But it's due for a change anyway.
It's a long shot I know. But it's due for a change anyway.
Maverick6587
Member
You'll have to pull the cv axles and the differential to remove the oil pan.
Here's the procedure from Autozone: Oil Pan removal
Mooseman
Moderator
Looking for evidence of bearing damage:
I used tin snips to open the oil filter and nothing in the element looks obviously metallic. The plan right now is; let it drain for awhile.
I used tin snips to open the oil filter and nothing in the element looks obviously metallic. The plan right now is; let it drain for awhile.
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This may be the thread Mooseman was.looking for
gmtnation.com
Crankshaft removal with engine in suv
Its a 06 4.2 2wd tb I pulled the pan and discovered 2 rod bearings were bad. Is it possible to remove the crank with the engine still in the suv? Front engine plate looks to be easy to remove but the rear plate looks hard. Would it be possible to unbolt the flywheel from the converter and unbolt...
gmtnation.com
Maverick6587
Member
I was in your position and just wanting to check the bearings. Instead of taking hours removing all of those components. I would buy a borescope from somewhere or rent one if you can. Just make sure that you buy/rent one that is 1080p.
720p will NOT cut it in low light. Oh, also make sure it emits a bright light. You may not get the view of the bearings you want but, you'd have a decent idea of their condition and you already pulled the drain plug.
Theory: You might also be able to get a long mic up there and have someone turn the engine over either with the pedal fully depressed or with the fuel pump relay pulled and fuel lines depressurized. You might be able to tell if it is truly the bearings making the noise.
720p will NOT cut it in low light. Oh, also make sure it emits a bright light. You may not get the view of the bearings you want but, you'd have a decent idea of their condition and you already pulled the drain plug.
Theory: You might also be able to get a long mic up there and have someone turn the engine over either with the pedal fully depressed or with the fuel pump relay pulled and fuel lines depressurized. You might be able to tell if it is truly the bearings making the noise.
Mooseman
Moderator
This may be the thread Mooseman was.looking for
Crankshaft removal with engine in suv
Its a 06 4.2 2wd tb I pulled the pan and discovered 2 rod bearings were bad. Is it possible to remove the crank with the engine still in the suv? Front engine plate looks to be easy to remove but the rear plate looks hard. Would it be possible to unbolt the flywheel from the converter and unbolt...
That wasn't the one but it's still good. The one I'm thinking about he actually replaced the bearings and reported a little less noise from the bottom end.
What kind of "clunking" are you hearing? A rod knock would be a "knock" and very rhythmic and go with the engine speed. Have you tried removing the belt and running the engine to eliminate anything belt driven? If the engine seems OK and it's nothing belt driven, there is a possibility that the flexplate bolts are loose or the flexplate itself is broken. It has happened.
<FIXED> Lifter noise & dull knocking (bottom end?) troubleshooting
And I also forgot to mention, there's a second crack opposite of the one... @Sparky will do man, may end up asking Brandon's father to borrow his extra truck until I can install the flex plate next weekend. It'll arrive Wednesday apparently. Kinda nervous now seeing how it has two cracks. Also...
gmtnation.com
The noise comes and goes. I've been all over the front accessories and the top end with a stethoscope and everything sounds perfect. When the noise starts, the spot right at the middle back of the oil pan is the closest I can get to the source.
Mooseman
Moderator
Blckshdw
Moderator
You thinking of this thread?Help to identify top end noise
Sounds like it's coming from the valvetrain...could be a bad lash adjuster. Sometimes when I start it I will get a noticeable, .much louder tap, tap, tap...might last a few seconds, or close to a minute. However....if it does tap, as soon as I shut the motor down and restart, it's gone. No noise...
gmtnation.com
Mooseman
Moderator
Also, a way to check bearing health is a used oil analysis. Trashed bearings will shed tin/lead (whatever the make up metal is) and will show very high numbers.
Can try a stethoscope to try and isolate the sound.
Can try a stethoscope to try and isolate the sound.
Quick question: Where does the scope get into the housing to inspect the flex plate?
I'd say rhythmic. My camera doesn't have an aux mic. Not sure right now how I'd get a decent recording. That would be cool though.
Mooseman
Moderator
The video above:
The guy turns his engine over with a breaker bar. What would happen if I turned the engine over by bumping the starter? The throttle body and many other electrical harness connections are disconnected. Would this mess up the computer real bad?
And, if I have to use a breaker bar on the crank; Anyone do this before? I'm not looking forward to removing the fan and clutch.
The guy turns his engine over with a breaker bar. What would happen if I turned the engine over by bumping the starter? The throttle body and many other electrical harness connections are disconnected. Would this mess up the computer real bad?
And, if I have to use a breaker bar on the crank; Anyone do this before? I'm not looking forward to removing the fan and clutch.
Blckshdw
Moderator
Depending on what all tools/supplies you have at your disposal, doing this might not as bad as you think. A number of options have been posted in @Matt's water pump replacement thread.
How to replace the water pump
Total time, about an hour. On the OS someone claimed to have done it in 30 minutes, but it took me about an hour from getting everything out to having everything packed away. Make sure the engine is COMPLETELY cool before doing this. Best bet is to do it first thing in the morning. Remove the...
gmtnation.com
I put a pipe wrench on the fan clutch bolt and the engine turned over with no trouble. The serpentine belt turned the crank.
I'm following the approach from the video above, but instead of using a screwdriver to push down on the piston, I'm using a dowel. With a long piece of wood as a lever and a block as a fulcrum, I mashed down hard on the dowel. And the dowel snapped.
Will try again tomorrow. Here's the piston as it's started down from TDC.
I'm following the approach from the video above, but instead of using a screwdriver to push down on the piston, I'm using a dowel. With a long piece of wood as a lever and a block as a fulcrum, I mashed down hard on the dowel. And the dowel snapped.
Will try again tomorrow. Here's the piston as it's started down from TDC.
I'll make another "push dowel" today after church. My father has a belt sander on his bench. Unsanded, the dowel is too big to fit through the spark plug hole.
After some wood working, I decided to use this aluminum rod (old piece of a sailboat.) I mashed down on cylinders 5 and 6 and could not get them to budge. Everything was reassembled and I let the truck idle for a few minutes. Lot's of work for nothing it seems, but at least everything was cleaned and inspected.
Notch the cowl to clear the radiator neck, but I didn't need to remove it after all (the crank spun by turning the fan clutch nut.) Had though I'd have to make room to get a socket onto the crank snout. Tools used: drill, hack-saw blade, and a cut-off wheel on a Dremel.
