Cleaned throttle body - Still misfire (p0300 P0301)

[richphotos]

To catch you up. I went to start the truck, battery was dead. Got a new battery and started the truck and it was running super rough (flashing check engine light Code P0300 Random Misfire) (Truck ran FINE the night before the battery died)
Googled, Found out the likely culprit was a dirty throttle body. (when battery was dead, PCM reset to factory, yada yada)
Took off throttle body per youtube videos, cleaned it (did not pull the PCM fuses 10 and 28 because one tutorial did not mention it) but i did have battery disconnected
Pulled the 2 fuses for a couple hours (overkill) and put them back in, sat in the truck key on engine off for 2 minutes. Then started it and let it run for 10 minutes. Shut it off and started it again.
Its still running rough, Through a p0301 on the way home, Cleared that and on the way back to work throw p0300.

Any tips on where to start, this is driving me absolutely insane because it was driving just fine before swapping out the battery.

Throttle body was nasty but I cleaned it up real nice. I only had carb cleaner, is that my problem?

 

[Machoman]

cylinder one spark plug or coil. Take coil one and exchange it with coil two. reset the code and wait. If the code changes to P0302, it was the original coil one. If the code is the same P0301 it is cylinder one spark plug.

 

[Blckshdw]

Troubleshoot cylinder 1 and go from there.

 

[richphotos]

Thanks guys. I will start there and see.

I hate how things like this happen. Was running perfectly fine before the battery died and it seems all happens at once.

I dont have access to the vehicle until tonight so i will report back.

 

[gmcman]

Another thing to consider alongside of the above mentioned troubleshooting, is how old are your plugs? Did you try jumpstarting the vehicle or just change the battery?

This is unlikely and just a fyi, sometimes odd things happen if you jumpstart an engine with all these electronics. Jumper cable placement, accidentally touching the cables together, etc, not implying anything, just a fyi.

With an old plug, you could have fuel fouled it, then it cleared up.

I agree, start with the coil, consider changing the plugs if old.

 

[richphotos]

Another thing to consider alongside of the above mentioned troubleshooting, is how old are your plugs? Did you try jumpstarting the vehicle or just change the battery?

This is unlikely and just a fyi, sometimes odd things happen if you jumpstart an engine with all these electronics. Jumper cable placement, accidentally touching the cables together, etc, not implying anything, just a fyi.

With an old plug, you could have fuel fouled it, then it cleared up.

I agree, start with the coil, consider changing the plugs if

Did not jump the battery. I knew it was dead dead and I wanted a new one anyways (had a date stamp of 12-12)
Funny you mention the jumper cables though. While I did not jump the battery, I did accidentally make contact with the positive side post to a wrench when tightening down the battery hold down bar.

As for the plugs, No idea how old they even are and I was planning on doing a tuneup this spring but it looks like I will be doing one sooner.

 

[gmcman]

I did accidentally make contact with the positive side post to a wrench when tightening down the battery hold down bar

Even though the direct path was within the wrench, this could likely be the reason you possibly have a bad coil.

I've smoked diodes in the alternator doing the same thing. Would also be a good idea to double-check the output voltage of the alternator. Make sure it has at least (I believe) 13.6V, might be 13.4. You could have less and not trip the CEL but still provide weak spark, but this is not likely, just something to check.

Rule of thumb, always remove the NEG cable first, and make it the last connection when finished.

 

[richphotos]

Even though the direct path was within the wrench, this could likely be the reason you possibly have a bad coil.

I've smoked diodes in the alternator doing the same thing. Would also be a good idea to double-check the output voltage of the alternator. Make sure it has at least (I believe) 13.6V, might be 13.4. You could have less and not trip the CEL but still provide weak spark, but this is not likely, just something to check.

Rule of thumb, always remove the NEG cable first, and make it the last connection when finished.

Thank you.

Ive had wrenches contact stuff before but never on something with electronics like this (I had first gen sdimes before this)
I didnt know that the bluedriver has mode 6 so I will be digging into that tonight or tomorrow to help narrow it down.
But since one is likely bad, I am going to do them all since it probably needs it (135k miles, unsure of the last one, we have had it almost 4 years) . I hope I dont find any oil down the coil holes

Will report back tonight or tomorrow.
Thanks again.

 

[richphotos]

got the plugs today, ignition coils come tomorrow.
Got the 41-103 like recommended.
👍

 

[gmcman]

There's been a few cases recently of broken bolts, I would strongly advise picking up an inch-pound torque wrench if you don't have one.

Coil pack bolts: 89 inch-pounds


This one I use frequently, been very pleased.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009CZYW3A/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[richphotos]

Thanks! Luckily I just did the water pump too so I had to pick up one for inch lbs.

 

[richphotos]

I've only just started and the #1 is seized.
I've sprayed some penetrating oil down there and im letting it sit. Any other tips?
Can I run it for about 5 minutes without the #1 coil hooked up (since it doesn't work anyways) or in to let it warm up slightly to see if that helps?

 

[Blckshdw]

Probably disconnect the fuel injector for #1 so you don't pump a bunch of gas in there.

 

[richphotos]

Probably disconnect the fuel injector for #1 so you don't pump a bunch of gas in there.

I searched and searched. Pretty easy to get to on the drivers side?
Any other suggestions to get this unstuck besides what I tried?

 

[gmcman]

With an aluminum head, I've always tried to change plugs cold, but running the engine for about 2-3 min should heat the aluminum enough.

Be sure to use a good, solid ratchet or 3/8 breaker bar on the SHORTEST extension possible, NO universal swivel joint.

Only a spark plug socket, and short extension. Make sure everything is straight when removing.

 

[richphotos]

With an aluminum head, I've always tried to change plugs cold, but running the engine for about 2-3 min should heat the aluminum enough.

Be sure to use a good, solid ratchet or 3/8 breaker bar on the SHORTEST extension possible, NO universal swivel joint.

Only a spark plug socket, and short extension. Make sure everything is straight when removing.

Thank you! Im letting the plug soak in penetrating oil over night and hope it budges.
Is it tough to get to the plug for injector one In case I need to run it? The only reason I bring up the running part is I read on another thread it could help a bit.
It's cold out (I live in minneapolis) the aluminum head is what's making me so nervous

 

[gmcman]

I've cranked on some real stubborn ones, makes you want to cringe how tight they are.

 

[richphotos]

I've cranked on some real stubborn ones, makes you want to cringe how tight they are.

I looked on carfax and the last tuneup on it was 81k miles. It's got 135k miles now. Maybe I'm being too gentle in fear if breaking it.

I'll revit it tomorrow.
Thank again for the help.

 

[richphotos]

New plug and coil in #1 and the truck is up and running again smooth as butter.

I am having a couple problems though, The truck is not coming up to temp now (after the water pump change) if I leave the cap off and let the truck run it will get halfway between normal and just stop and it seems like the coolant is only rising in the radiator when i leave the cap off. When i turn the truck off and let it sit the upper radiator hose collapses, im guessing air in the system? Whats the best way to get that out?

Another thing now is the heat wont come off of feet and defrost. No matter what the setting is, it worked before but that seems like an easy fix to just pull fuse 39 I believe in the rear fuse panel to reset the hvac actuators

and of course the fan clutch needs to be replaced. I should have done both. My fault there, probably do that next week.. 2021, the year of car problems.

 

[Machoman]

Park the vehicle facing up hill. Air will rise to the top. Tt is easy to burp the system this way.

I believe your hvac system is stuck is "safe mode". My guess is a bad actuators. Someone else should be able to help you on this,

 

[richphotos]

Park the vehicle facing up hill. Air will rise to the top. Tt is easy to burp the system this way.

I believe your hvac system is stuck is "safe mode". My guess is a bad actuators. Someone else should be able to help you on this,

Thank you!
I pulled the hvac fuse #39 and let the system go through its relearn. I have a some air coming out the vents now and not just the defrost vents and floor.
I will keep pulling the fuse, and doing the relearn and see if it works itself out.
Worked prior to this but im sure I fried it like I did the #1 coil LOL

 

[Mektek]

Strange things can happen with this platform. 2 years ago my #1 coil failed a few minutes after the fuel pump failed. Go figure


Don't "keep pulling the fuse, and doing the relearn". This might work if done once, but if doesn't help, then subsequent times wont fix anything. I repaired all three drivers side actuators and fortunately they were the only failures.

 

[richphotos]

Strange things can happen with this platform. 2 years ago my #1 coil failed a few minutes after the fuel pump failed. Go figure


Don't "keep pulling the fuse, and doing the relearn". This might work if done once, but if doesn't help, then subsequent times wont fix anything. I repaired all three drivers side actuators and fortunately they were the only failures.

Yeah I kinda figured I'd have to replace the mode actuator. Seems pretty straight forward just a PITA
It's running so smooth now (I only did #1 for now to get it on the road)
It had autolites plugs in it.

 

[richphotos]

New radiator cap fixed collapsing upper hose. Fan clutch is coming Friday or Saturday.

So I don't need to start a new thread, the mode actuator is stuck in defrost, which kicks the ac compressor on. Is there a way to disable the compressor until I fix that mode actuator?

 

[Mooseman]

It shouldn't command the compressor on because you are not requesting defrost. However, easiest to disable the compressor is to pull the relay.

 

[richphotos]

It shouldn't command the compressor on because you are not requesting defrost. However, easiest to disable the compressor is to pull the relay.

The compressor keeps kicking on unless the bad fan clutch is what I'm hearing. 2 weeks ago my only problem was the water pump.
Sorry if my responses are all over the place. Scatter brain.
But it's running good. I'll pull the relay and see if it stops engaging and if it does, maybe bad relay?

 

[gmcman]

Are you sure that you have the "A/C OFF" illuminated?

 

[richphotos]

Are you sure that you have the "A/C OFF" illuminated?

I have manual controls, not that fancy stuff you got there LOL

But yeah, my manual ac button is not illuminated.
I am going go make sure tonight if its kicking on or not but I swore it was. (its not my vehicle so I do not have access to it all the time)

 

[Mektek]

You'll have to shine a light at the AC pulley and see if the front of it is spinning. I have noticed an odd behavior of the system - the pcm can keep the compressor spinning for a while after "ac off" is pressed. This is what you may be noticing. It does shut off eventually.

 

[gmcman]

I have manual controls, not that fancy stuff you got there LOL

But yeah, my manual ac button is not illuminated.
I am going go make sure tonight if its kicking on or not but I swore it was. (its not my vehicle so I do not have access to it all the time)

Ha, copy that.

Just another thought, defrost usually calls for A/C.

I know on mine, if the foot+defrost or defrost is selected, the A/C will run to use dehumidified air to more efficiently clear the windshield.

To test your issue, be sure to not use the two above mentioned positions.

 

[richphotos]

Ac not kicking on, the fan clutch made me think it was. Put on a behr today and it's all good. Replaced the mode actuator too and that's good.

What's normal temp for these through obd? Pretty sure the tstat is stuck open. Reader said 190 the whole time. Sounds like a stuck open thermostat to me?

Does the brand matter on the tstat and temp sensor when I get them?

 

[Blckshdw]

You should be able to get up to 195 fairly quickly if driving, and have the temp hold there at the lowest.

 

[richphotos]

You should be able to get up to 195 fairly quickly if driving, and have the temp hold there at the lowest.

Thermostat it is! Gonna put this off until it's a bit warmer. Thanks for all the help. It's running real nice now.