Cannot unlock or lock with key

[linneje]

Just happened today. Will lock and unlock with remote. Key doesn't work (none of three keys I have). It does turn the lock, but it feels like there is no resistance.

I want to know what I am dealing with. I can take the door liner off, but the owner before me really busted up the driver door and liner, so I would like some advice before I do that, as the inside liner is really difficult to reattach. Is there some rod that attaches to the door lock? Do I have to buy the lock and mechanism as a unit? Is this a dealer only item?

 

[gmcman]

There's a plastic retaining clip that holds the rod in place. I thought I had a pic of mine I did recently but I have an extra part.

I'll get you a pic and a part number.

 

[gmcman]

I thought I posted this repair within the last couple months, but cannot find it at the moment.

Either way, here's the part, and is easily repaired with the door panel removed. I'm assuming this is what broke.

 

[linneje]

Thanks. If it is probably that clip then it seems like an easy fix.

 

[linneje]

That is not it. At least I don't think so. The rod was detached from the lock right at the top of the inside of the handle, below the key cylinder on the inside. This blue clip was on the end of the rod, but I am not sure how this attached to the metal bracket that it part of the cylinder. It does look like some part of it broke off, or perhaps there was a screw, but I can't find it in the door. I can't see to locate a diagram of the assembly to see the part as it once was.

Sorry, I can't get a picture of the inside of the door, the key cylinder part.

 

[christo829]

Most all of these clips have the same design as what gmcman showed. Do you have a copy
of Mooseman's manuals? Page 171 of the doors pdf has a half decent diagram. It looks like the plastic that would normally go through the metal flange on the lock cylinder has broken off yours.
The rod goes through that and pushes the plastic flanges on the pin outward, holding it in the hole in the lock, then the plastic clip part goes over the rod behind the 90 degree bend. I can't can't get the image to extract just now, but I'll dig around and see if I can scare one up.

EDIT: Not finding a decent diagram, but in addition to gmcman's GM part, Dorman makes an assortment pack:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C5I6H2/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[linneje]

I can picture what you are describing. Yes, it seems like the flange is broken. Perhaps I can get it from the parts guy at the dealer. He used to be my neighbor, so he shows me that diagrams to help locate a part if necessary.

I think that I got fooled, I think that he probably does have the correct part number posted for me.

By the way, does anyone know what model years are compatible for the driver's inside door shell, when going to a wrecker?

 

[Machoman]

I had this happen to my Envoy. Weeks later the problem went away without me doing anything.

 

[gmcman]

Not sure what you see in there, but when the bent end of the rod is placed into the hole on the lock cylinder tab, the plastic elbow grabs onto the rod before and after the bend, keeping it from coming out.

Edit to add: Only speculating since that blue clip looks different than my setup, but looks like that blue clip is supposed to grab onto the rod before the bend, then the hole of the clip would go on the other side of the lock cylinder tab with the rod protruding through the hole.

So push the rod through the hole of the lock cylinder, then slide the hole of the blue clip onto the rod end, then clip the plastic to the rod before the bend.

If the rod is not attached to the lock cylinder, then that is likely the issue. Again, I don't know without seeing it.

 

[mrrsm]

I'm not certain that this information is precisely where you are working on those Rods... but FWIW...here is a Diagram of the Door Lock Internal Layout:



...and a Video showing how to Manipulate a New Plastic Clip onto the Key & Door Lock Mechanism:

@gmcman ... If you find these items useful and relevant to add to your Write Up on this Topic... Please STEAL Them... :>)

 

[linneje]

Not sure what you see in there, but when the bent end of the rod is placed into the hole on the lock cylinder tab, the plastic elbow grabs onto the rod before and after the bend, keeping it from coming out.

Edit to add: Only speculating since that blue clip looks different than my setup, but looks like that blue clip is supposed to grab onto the rod before the bend, then the hole of the clip would go on the other side of the lock cylinder tab with the rod protruding through the hole.

So push the rod through the hole of the lock cylinder, then slide the hole of the blue clip onto the rod end, then clip the plastic to the rod before the bend.

If the rod is not attached to the lock cylinder, then that is likely the issue. Again, I don't know without seeing it.

You are correct, I believe. But the plastic that keeps the rod from falling out of the lock mechanism has broken off my blue clip. It won't remain attached now, so I need a new clip. Off to the dealer today, hope they can help. Otherwise I will turn to Amazon.

 

[gmcman]

the plastic that keeps the rod from falling out of the lock mechanism has broken off my blue clip.

Ok. I couldn't tell if the blue portion was snapped in half, or had fallen off and was a different design.

The GM part I posted earlier might be from 02-09, not sure.

If you find these items useful and relevant to add to your Write Up on this Topic... Please STEAL Them

Ha, thanks!

 

[linneje]

Dealer is getting the clip in. None in Canada, coming from the US. He found it on the diagram but I never thought to check the part number to see if it matched your part GMCMan. He used my VIN to look it up so I am certain he got it right. I will have to check when it comes.

 

[QuirkyAero]

I have the same issue as original post, keys turn the lock mechanism but no resistance and no door unlock. This has me concerned: if the battery dies, to the point the remote does not unlock a door, no way to get into the vehicle and no easy way to charge the battery. Clearly the door panel needs to come off.

While I am in there, my drivers door is intermittent about sensing door open; sometimes the radio stays on after I exit the vehicle and lock the door. How it door open sensed on these? I see no switch that the door hits, so I assume its internal to the door somewhere.

 

[gmcman]

@QuirkyAero I went through the same thing for a while and I let it go until the winter months. Then my battery died and I had to disassemble my grill to open up my hood to get jumper cables on the car to open up the car.

It baffles me why GM did not put a keyed lock cylinder on the passenger door but unfortunately we only have one.

My point is, take care of it now so you're not snapping plastic tabs off trying to open up your hood when it's about 5 deg outside.

 

[QuirkyAero]

I purchased a cable and connector for the trailer lights in hopes this could be a fall back. One of the connections is 12V on all the time (per spec, have not checked the 9-7x).

My thought was to energize the system enough to get the computer, remote stuff and door locks to work by back-feeding power through the trailer connector.

I've not tested this, but will do so this weekend.

 

[Mooseman]

I purchased a cable and connector for the trailer lights in hopes this could be a fall back. One of the connections is 12V on all the time (per spec, have not checked the 9-7x).

Yep, will work on the 9-7x. Just have to connect the red wire at the fuse box.

Red Wire (The disconnected ring connector near battery/underhood fuse box)

 

[linneje]

I thought I posted this repair within the last couple months, but cannot find it at the moment.

Either way, here's the part, and is easily repaired with the door panel removed. I'm assuming this is what broke.

View attachment 96732

View attachment 96733

This is the same part that was given to me by the GM Dealer Parts guy, so the number is correct. Thanks for the help. Easy fix, but my door shell is such a mess. Wish that I had not had to take the door apart. Really need to find a shell at a wrecker in the next while. Door shell is barely hanging on.

 

[QuirkyAero]

Thanks for all the advice and links: gmcman, Mooseman and linneje!

Found the "red wire" and attached the lug to the mount point. Needed to buy a M6x1.00 lock nut and all was good. I now have power at all times on the trailer electrical connector. I see they put in a 30A fuse at the factory even though this was a not connected circuit. Sweet. Also gives me the confidence it has plenty of capacity in this circuit to power up the necessary electronics, or to charge the battery.

The door lock plastic piece looks exactly like the tailgate latch connectors on my old Dodge truck. It will be a week or two before I can tackle the door disasembly. But I'm happy I have a fall back to get into the car if the battery dies.

 

[Stugar]

Interesting concept, could splice a trickle charger onto an 8 pin trailer connector and use that for a no-dangly-bits install, for those with more than one GMT anyway.