Can I run my truck without Power Steering Fluid?

mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
OK, so my power steering fluid is leaking from somewhere, there's no fluid in the reservoir. I need to use the truck and will try to fix it later today or tomorrow. I want to know if it's a bad for the truck to drive it without power steering fluid. Steering wheel still turns with ease but makes a terrible rubbing type noise when the steering wheel is turned in either direction stationary or while driving.

Thank you.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
You run the risk of killing the pump and losing power steering entirely, but it won't damage anything else. Unless you lose the power steering and can't turn the wheel fast enough and hit a pole or something that is.
 

mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
Thanks for the reply. I will hold off on driving it. My wife and I will just have to take turns driving my other car.
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
I've had a power steering leak for a while now, can't really replace the seals without a hand from my bud. I know it's leaking from where the lines connect to the steering rack underneath pretty much where the steering column is, but I wouldn't recommend driving with it empty. I always carry 2 big bottles of power steering fluid with me incase my reservoir does run empty. Which it does depending on how hard I drive my rig.
 
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mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
I suspect mine is leaking from the bottom somewhere as well, probably near the radiator. I couldn't see any leaks near the pump itself.
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Check the spot where I said mine is leaking. Maybe you have it leaking there too. If you have any large pieces of cardboard lay it underneath over night and when your rig is running, turn the wheel all the way one way than the other to see if you can expose where the leak is at. Maybe that'll work out for you
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Lol! I can see Flex seal working for some automotive applications, but I wouldn't use it as a bandaid for a leak
 
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Envoy_04

Member
Jul 1, 2013
749
Power steering lines on these are no fun to replace - did the pressure line and the return from rack to cooler on an 07 TB a while back because they had rotted in two where they cross the strut tower. I will never do such a thing again - that's one job I'll just pay to have done should I encounter it again.
 

mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
Sounds almost as bad as replacing ball joints with no air tools.

Envoy_04 said:
Power steering lines on these are no fun to replace - did the pressure line and the return from rack to cooler on an 07 TB a while back because they had rotted in two where they cross the strut tower. I will never do such a thing again - that's one job I'll just pay to have done should I encounter it again.
 
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mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
Looks like it's the hard lines near the top of the D/S strut.
 

mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
OK, so here's what I see:
IMG_4244.JPG
IMG_4246.JPG
IMG_4251.JPG

When I saw the hard line was cut/leaking and the rusted connectors, the only thing I could think of was this:
Picture1.png

I think I will order the part then take it to the shop. I don't even have crowfoot wrenches.
 

Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
That sucks bro
 
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flap00

Member
Apr 8, 2013
44
Yep. Mine started leaking in that same spot a few days ago. They are held there in a rubber mount, which of course, made them rust. I had a feeling they'd be a bitch to replace, and now Envoy_04 confirmed it. I don't know which line it is yet, but I'm hoping its the return line, which I'd assume has much lower pressure than the supply line.

I'm wondering if I might be able to splice in a short piece of steel tubing with flare or compression fittings....hmm....
 
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mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
I'm thinking the same thing. Worst case scenario, I still take it to the shop.
flap00 said:
Yep. Mine started leaking in that same spot a few days ago. They are held there in a rubber mount, which of course, made them rust. I had a feeling they'd be a bitch to replace, and now Envoy_04 confirmed it. I don't know which line it is yet, but I'm hoping its the return line, which I'd assume has much lower pressure than the supply line.

I'm wondering if I might be able to splice in a short piece of steel tubing with flare or compression fittings....hmm....
 

flap00

Member
Apr 8, 2013
44
Anybody know what kind of pressure is in these lines? If it's not too crazy, maybe flare just might work...
 

flap00

Member
Apr 8, 2013
44
I took a look at your link. I don't see that they mention anything about maximum pressure. But, I was thinking more along the lines of just a strong scrap piece of tubing, flaring the ends with a flaring tool, and using 2 flare type unions.
 

mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
What is the part number for the outside line? I don't know if it's the high or low pressure. I'm trying to find the flow process of the fluid, but haven't been able to find a good schematic or diagram.

I'm still on the fence about replacing or fixing it.
 

flap00

Member
Apr 8, 2013
44
Actually, I'm not sure what the specs are for the pump in your 2002 Envoy, but I'm reading something in the service manual about 1500/1600 psi @ 3.5 gallons per minute on the pump of my '06 EXT LT TB.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
You can use almost anything on the low pressure line. I'm running a length of fuel hose for a section of my return line, with just clamps on each end.
 

mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
Thanks Sparky. Is the line in my picture above on the outside the low pressure / return line? I don't know how the fluid runs through.

Sparky said:
You can use almost anything on the low pressure line. I'm running a length of fuel hose for a section of my return line, with just clamps on each end.
 

northcreek

Member
Jan 15, 2012
3,319
WNY
Sparky said:
You can use almost anything on the low pressure line. I'm running a length of fuel hose for a section of my return line, with just clamps on each end.
Don't use fuel hose, it will break down and fail. Use hydraulic hose on the pressure or return side ( or transmission cooler hose on the return side only )...Mike.
 
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Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
Not really sure which line along the top is which. My lines there are still intact. It was the cooler to res line that failed on mine.

The hose says it is for fuel and oil on it. It is that reinforced rubberized stuff.
 

meerschm

Member
Aug 26, 2012
1,079
I would not drive it very long without fluid.

Without fluid, the pump will eventually jam and that will not be good for the belt or other handy items driven by the belt.

But you said you would not drive it.

there are a few posts somewhere about using steel brake line, bent to fit, with compression fittings to jump around the bad corrosion.
 

mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
Started the truck and saw the leak right away. It's only a pin hole but it spewed out pretty good. I'm actually surprised that there's still fluid in there.
 
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Capote

Supporting Donor
Member
Jul 14, 2014
24,227
Atlanta, GA
Good to hear you pinpointed the leak brother
 

flap00

Member
Apr 8, 2013
44
I've done a few searches for anyone doing this...mostly on youtube. I can't seem to find anything on anyone actually *repairing* a power steering line. All I come up with is stuff regarding replacing the lines. I'm REALLY hoping to be able to repair and not replace a whole line or two. I'm thinking a flare or double flare type connection might be better than any type of compression fitting, but haven't verified that yet, or if even that will be strong enough for the pressure. I'll keep looking, and keep me in the loop here if you find out anything.
 

mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
I ordered the line from rockauto. I've started the dismantle process. I went this route because i think my line will leak in other spots over a short period of time.
 

moneypit

Member
Dec 7, 2011
214
I had the same leak/situation as you. Replacing the complete line is expensive but also seemed a "really,really SOB!" I just sectioned it off 8-10" w/steel lines & compression fittings for $10.00 and its been problem free now over 4 yrs.
 

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flap00

Member
Apr 8, 2013
44
moneypit said:
I had the same leak/situation as you. Replacing the complete line is expensive but also seemed a "really,really SOB!" I just sectioned it off 8-10" w/steel lines & compression fittings for $10.00 and its been problem free now over 4 yrs.
THAT is what I'm talking about. BUT, was it the pressure or return line??
 

flap00

Member
Apr 8, 2013
44
Wouldn't matter to me either, as long as it can handle the pressure, of course. Did you use brake line? Steel? Aluminum?
By the way, what year/model?
Mine looks a little different. My lines are actually held down there with a steel and rubber mount that's a few inches long, which is why I'd assumed mine rusted in that spot...holding the moisture in.
 

mubai

Original poster
Member
Jan 5, 2012
321
I think if you remove the rubber and metal brace it will look like what's in the picture.
 

moneypit

Member
Dec 7, 2011
214
02TB, they all have that 1/2 moon/rubber hold down guide. I prolly just used gas line,metal line,brake line. making the cuts were difficult with my selection of tools iirc just try to have a flat/straight cut and deburr the ends, thats it!
 

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