Buick Rainier bad Intermediate Bearing Assembly or Differential

[Lab Mike]

Hi technicians,

I have an 04 Rainier with AWD only. They AWD went out last year. I have read posts on this site and others covering the last ten years on disconnect and actuator failures. With the vehicle on blocks and running the forward driveshaft turns and some bad sounds are coming from differential area. Front wheels do not turn.

Trying to isolate a INTERMEDIATE SHAFT BEARING ASSEMBLY aka (Disconnect) failure or a differential failure? The ISBA functions differently for the Rainiers then the disconnect for the TB/Envoy I believe? Is it possible/probable that the ISBA would cause the AWD to fail in this manner?

 

[Mooseman]

The disconnect, which it isn't, is different than the 4x4 version in that it doesn't disconnect at all. The majority of the guts are replaced with a sleeve that permanently connects the intermediate shaft to the half-shaft. However, the bearings inside are the same. However, it would still be connected despite a bad bearing but would cause all sorts of noises and wobbling. If you have the front wheels blocked and you can turn the front drive shaft, I would suspect the intermediate shaft being stripped. You would need to do some disassembling. Start with the right half-shaft and the disconnect to inspect it and the intermediate shaft.

If the front wheels are still locked (you can't turn the drive shaft), you would still need to do some disassembling to try and isolate the noise. After taking the disconnect off, turn the drive shaft. If there is still noise, I'm afraid it would be the right output bearing in the differential. To remove the diff, you're in for a world of work.

Some here have disabled the AWD system and could be an option if you don't really need it.

 

[Lab Mike]

Thanks Mooseman,
That does give me an idea of the bearing assembly's function. The front driveshaft will turn, I am pretty sure, but will check again. I know if either front tire is turned there is a clicking noise seeming to come from the intermediate shaft bearing assembly, hard to tell though. There is very little play at the cv joint next to it.

The vehicle is already stuck in 2wd since the AWD only comes on during slippage. Would it damage anything more to leave it as is?

Is it feasible to replace the diff since I have a garage? It does look daunting at the you tube videos I've seen?

 

[TollKeeper]

It's quite the process to change the front diff. Dropping of the oil pan, and then hoping there isn't much metal bonding where the diff and oil pan meet. It can be done, I'm planning on doing it myself once I get a new rear diff (already have the front diff). Just make sure the new replacement diff is the right gear ratio to your truck. You can check that on the SPIDF sticker on the glove box door. It's either a GU6, GT4 or GT5. Likely it's a GT4, but you will have to verify first.

If you plan on just leaving it like it is, you will have to pull the front axle drive shaft, and CV axles. Since something is wrong internally, you don't need it to grenade, and lock up. Or worse case scenario, grenade, blow the diff out, and put a hole in the oil pan.

 

[Lab Mike]

I checked and the front driveshaft turns by hand, tires do not. The book I have claims the intermediate shaft can be changed without removing the diff. Have you seen any threads on this?

 

[TollKeeper]

It can be changed. If I am remembering correctly, front CV off, and the intermediate shaft slides out. I have not replaced this, so someone with more knowledge can share the info better.

 

[Lab Mike]

Thanks Tollkeeper!

I will check the glovebox. I could not see any obvious tags on the outside of the diff even to price one.

 

[m.mcmillen]

You don't need to remove the diff to change the intermediate shaft. Pull the disconnect and the shaft is right there. There is a special tool that is supposed to thread into the end of the shaft and then you use a slide hammer to pop it out. You don't really need the tool though. What I did was put some large washers on a bolt (I think it is an 8MM bolt) and threaded it into the end of the shaft. I then used a couple of pry bars and pried against the washers to pop the shaft out. It doesn't really take that much pressure to do.

Let me know if you end up needing an intermediate shaft. I have a good one.

 

[Lab Mike]

Thank you all!
I am going to disassemble and see what I can find! It may take me a little while since I am working with only one good arm with my right arm recovering from a break, ha ha.

 

[Mooseman]

Basically, the intermediate shaft can be pulled either by the method @m.mcmillen described or use a slide hammer with a bolt threaded on the end.

If it is that, I don't know if it's still available from the $tealer$hip or you may need to scrounge one from a yard.

 

[m.mcmillen]

If your disconnect is bad, these are a good replacement.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Trailblaze...h=item25a200f23a:g:jpkAAOSwpRRWnktq:rk:1:pf:0

 

[Lab Mike]

Thanks for the info m.mc!

Having a difficult time getting the axle out of the intermediate shaft bearing assembly. It comes loose but I cannot compress the cv joints enough to remove the axle? There is at least 3/4 inches more I need? A1Auto video made it look easy. Can you damage the cv joints by compression/extension?

 

[m.mcmillen]

Did you disconnect the upper ball joint?

 

[Mooseman]

To get the axle out of the disconnect, use a long screwdriver or drift, rest one end on the joint and smack it with a hammer. It won't come out just pulling or prying on it.

 

[Lab Mike]

Yes, I disconnected the upper ball joint and the tie rod from the steering knuckle, I think it's called.
The axle is loose in the wheel bearing, but not quite enough room to remove it from that side. I also got it loose from the disconnect, but just could not get it the last inch or less to remove it completely. I also removed the disconnect but this gives me no more room to manipulate.
I am at a loss???

 

[m.mcmillen]

I'm not sure what else you could do. It is a pretty tight fit to get the CV axle out. I find it easier to pull the spindle side out first and then the disconnect side. You won't hurt anything to compress the joint. Be careful pulling on it though.

 

[Lab Mike]

Thank you. How much bend can the joints take?

 

[m.mcmillen]

You can bend them until they stop. They bend quite a bit if you think about how much they bend while turning a tight corner.

 

[Mooseman]

I had to pull the lower ball joints to get them out. Maybe removing the wheel hub will give enough clearance. Somebody also cut off the threaded end of the axle.

 

[mrrsm]

This Link to Youtube sports many On Topic Videos for your unique Ranier vehicle concerning the service and R&R of the various front end and AWD drive components that's worth a Bookmark for present and future reference:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=+04+Rainier+with+AWD

 

[Lab Mike]

The wheel hub removal did the trick!!! Threaded a screw in the intermediate shaft and literally just pulled it out with my hand. Not sure that’s good. Mooseman you guessed right, the intermediate shaft is stripped on the disconnect side. The other side splines appear ok. On turning the drivers side wheel the clicking was gone with the intermediate shaft in place. I will try to upload a few photos.

My question is this, would this cause the driver side wheel to fail in 4wd? Or do I still have a problem with the diff?
Forgive me if it sounds ignorant. I’m a novice at understanding the inner workings of the diff.

 

[TollKeeper]

The power runs thru the path of lease resistance. So the broken splines would be the lease resistant path. Change the shaft, and make sure to change the diff fluid, and I think you will be golden.

 

[Mooseman]

I would also replace the disconnect or at least inspect it carefully as the metal from the shaft wound up in there and probably caused damage.

If you're going to look for a used shaft locally (@m.mcmillen mentioned he has one), you can grab one from a 4x4 TB or Envoy, which are more plentiful in yards and less prone to be stripped as we usually don't use the AWD setting and mostly in 2HI.

 

[Lab Mike]

Thank you all so much! That makes sense. The disconnect is toast. Metal like clumps inside, stripped collar looks like, loose bearings. I think I will purchase from the link above m.mc posted. How would I coordinate with him for the intermediate shaft?

 

[TollKeeper]

Thru a PM directly to him.

 

[xavierny25]

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/122301100033

This kit should do it for you. When I did this repair to my brother-in-law tbss they didn't sell it with the shaft. He ended up ordering the part from a third party for $180. just for the intermediate shaft.

 

[Lab Mike]

Update - AWD is working!

Was able to test it today after replacing the intermediate shaft and bearing housing/disconnect and it is functioning well. Thank you all for your help!

Great learning experience!