The jamb nut isn't too hard to turn - it's a conventional right hand thread. So is the thread for the tie rod, so turning leftward should back it right out. If you do have to 'break' the jamb nut / tie rod, due to rust, etc., you shouldn't have to move it much. I won't comment on the control arm, as I don't want to give incorrect info.
Standard advice is to count the number of turns it takes to get the outer rod out of the inner one, so that you can get 'close' by threading the new one in by the same number of turns. This is a good reason not to move the jamb nut too much, if you can manage it. But -- the alignment will still be off afterward, so don't worry about being super precise. Every time I've tried to 'match' it with the old one, the alignment machine shows the 'toe' to be way off, afterward, when I take it in. But do try to get close, as steering / tracking will be negatively affected, the more the toe-in is off from specification.
On the other end of the tie rod...
If I remember correctly (and looking at some pictures online), the tie rod shaft is tapered; if so, it will need to come back out the same side / direction it went in. Depending on how much of the shaft extends past the hole / knuckle, you may run into difficulty removing the nut, to get the shaft out.
If that's the case, try and drive the broken off end further into the shaft, to make space between the nut & the mount / knuckle. Then take something like a reciprocating saw, hacksaw, etc., to cut through the bolt just below the nut and free the remnant of the shaft.
If the shaft remnant doesn't budge, strike the side of the mount / knuckle (perpendicular to the shaft) with a handheld sledge a couple of times. That will break the torque binding it to the mount. Many people try pounding on the shaft (turning the castle nut upside down and threading onto the stud is advisable if you do this). However, the shaft frees up *much* easier if you strike from the side, rather than on the stud / nut directly.
If the shaft *is* bound, that may allow you to remove the nut first, with the shaft remnant being captive. In that case, remove the nut first, of course.