Bought junkyard front differential..was I robbed?

[Mooseman]

First time I've heard of the baffle not in later years. Only difference I knew about was that '02 had a hole in the bottom for the oil level sensor and was deleted in later years. The undrilled boss are still there in later years. Don't know why they would remove the baffle other than being cheap or maybe found it was unneccesary or impeded oil return. Looking at that hole in the middle of it, looks like it corresponds to the location where the oil level sensor would be. Either way I don't think it would affect anything.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

I know that big hole is for the pick up tube. I didn't think about the dipstick tube..i gave it a trial fit twice before i started cleaning it..put it on took it off, put it on took it off..it seated perfectly both times...kind of a hassle negotiating it around the pick up tube tho..hope i dont rub off all the gasket maker trying to get it in..I'll give it a couple more trial fits first to find the best procedure..got it soaking overnight in soap and degreaser..this one's harder to clean with those baffles they're welded on

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Im shopping for cv axles now..the prices are all over the place..most ac Delco's are around 300.00 auto zone's duralast are 85.00 and advance auto's carquest are also 85.00...seen some as low as 54.00 at other places..probably gonna go with advanced.. but I noticed that both auto parts store brands look different from the ac delco.. the Delco's inner end that connects to the rubber boot has 3 dimples the other two are perfectly round..the ones I pulled off my truck had the dimples...does that design have any thing to do with the ABS or am I good just getting the carquest brand

 

[TollKeeper]

Your good with any brand. The ABS sensors are in the Hub Axle Bearing. You could also order a set off of Detroit Axle. Or go to a salvage yard and see if you can find a cheap pair.

 

[Mooseman]

Sometimes you can't go with the pics online as they are sometimes not the actual part and just generic.

Yeah, just about any brand will do.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Cleaned oil pick up..does anyone know the torque specs for the oil pan bolts that go into the transmission bellhousing? Haynes doesn't say..or are they considered "sides" bolts..or are they considered "ends" bolts..i figured "ends" bolts were the three 10mm bolts in front and the two 10mm in the back that were under the rubber thing..i just tightened those five to a point where they were tight but not too tight cause the lowest my torque wrench goes is 120 inch-lbs

 

[Mooseman]

I'd use the tranny bellhousing spec, which is 37ft/lb.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Thanks @Mooseman..I replaced the u joint on the front driveshaft..I'm was having a hard time putting the driveshaft back on to the transfer case it would line up fine but I couldn't push it in all the way..I suspected this clip was the problem so I removed it and the driveshaft slid on effortlessly..is this clip necessary?what's its purpose.do I have to replace it?

 

[TollKeeper]

Yes that clip is needed. You have a slip front drive shaft (I never could figure out why with a fixed engine, transfer case, and front dif). But because of that slip joint, that CirClip is what stops the driveshaft from trying to spin off.

EDIT: Get a 2x4 and put the end of it against the piece, and using a hammer, or some other pounding device, hit the other end, until it slips onto the output shaft.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Ok ill give it a go

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@TollKeeper I think I stretched that clip out too much on removal and reinstall the diameter of it sticks out way too much..gonna see if I can get an new clip...also this just came five minutes ago isn't that actuator hole supposed to be open? They sent me the wrong one didn't they..or did I order the wrong one?

 

[xavierny25]

@Uncleenvoy looks like you ordered the one for an AWD according to what I see and what's on the receipt.

Btw Where in NY are you located?

 

[Mooseman]

Yep, AWD version. You could use it. The off-road crowd prefers it as it is less prone to failing, however, your diff and driveshaft will be spinning all the time and you might take a very small MPG hit. When I took the axles and driveshaft out of my AWD Saab, I didn't see an improvement.

If you do use it, take the the actuator off the old one, plug it in and zip tie it somewhere so you don't get an error. Maybe put in in a ziplock bag.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@xavierny25 @Mooseman southeast queens ny close to JFK...I spoke to them ordered the proper one..didn't feel like spending 270 on that thing but I like the fact that they fixed the design flaws and it comes with a new actuator even though I didn't need it..he said he could sell me one without the actuator but it's only 17 dollars cheaper..also ordered the circlip for transfer case output shaft from dealer for 12 bux but not coming till Tuesday so job on pause..think I'll do that transmission flush I saw mayo do in a vid in the meantime

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Yay broken transmission dipstick..that seems about par for the course with me and this truck..and here's some well past it's time tranny fluid..and yes the metal part of dipstick is stuck in tube..hopefully I can push it up from under when I take off pan

 

[Mooseman]

Yep, my DS did the same. Picked up another one at the u-pull cheap.

 

[xavierny25]

southeast queens ny close to JFK...

Oh okay, that's actually just east of me I'm just off the belt parkway, Bay Parkway exit. If you ever need a hand just shoot me a pm.

Back on topic... My brother-in-law had the same thing happen, it broke right at the same spot. How much of a flush are you planning to do?

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@xavierny25 kool Brooklyn in da house....I'm gonna do a full flush iirc it took around 12 quarts of new fluid..I bought two 1 gallons and 4 single quarts at advance..they got a buy 1 get 1 half off deal going on right now on the quarts..I should of just bought three1 gallon bottles but I thought those gallons were 5 quarts (read the label people) I wanted 14 qts for topping off..anyway I was able to get the dipstick out from underneath and advance had one for 12 bux so gonna go pick that up today..trans pan has been clean replaced and torqued..lost the sunlight yesterday so gonna put in the new fluid in a few hours

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Also this was in the bottom of the trans pan..away from the magnet..I think its aluminum..anybody got a clue..whatever it is I'm sure it's not good just wondering how bad

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@Mooseman ive never heard of u-pull..just looked it up and man I wish we had one in New York.

 

[xavierny25]

@Mooseman ive never heard of u-pull..just looked it up and man I wish we had one in New York.

That would be great but to much of a liability here in the city not even sure if there are any in the state. I know I've gone as far as Pennsylvania for a decent place to pick and pull or U-pull. With parts being fairly reasonable for these trucks I buy most of my parts new and delivered to my door with in a few days.

Edit: sometimes craigslist works well for finding new and used stuff aswell.

Any chance that piece you found in there is part of the dip stick? I'm just wishful thinking here.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@xavierny25 i checked the dipstick..nope not that lucky..its intact..I managed to finish the flush b4 the rain started..engine running poured in about 8 quarts b4 the fluid coming out went from black to burgundy to red..worked like gangbusters, there was about 8 quarts of the black stuff in there. Cost a lot in fluid but won't have to do that again for a while

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@Mooseman just curious how did u get the metal part of the dipstick out of the tube? I was trying with a needle nose pliers..the needle nose would fit but it couldn't open up

 

[coolride]

I bought a couple gallons on Amazon. The price was pretty good. Clean up that little chunk you found and cut into it. I wonder if it's plastic.

That fine sludge on the magnet is normal.

 

[Mooseman]

@Mooseman just curious how did u get the metal part of the dipstick out of the tube? I was trying with a needle nose pliers..the needle nose would fit but it couldn't open up

Mine was still sticking out being held up by the seal. You could have pushed it up when you had the pan off. If it's in the tube that deep, maybe a magnetic pickup tool can grab it.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@Mooseman i got it out..I pushed it up when the pan was off..I tried getting it out with the pliers while I was waiting on the new one just to to see if I could..picked up the new one this morn so all is good

 

[Uncleenvoy]

That old circlip was way out of spec...put the new one on and driveshaft slipped on easily..got her all put together today..still up on 4 jack stands so started her up put it in 4wd hi and everything looked good saw the gears in the diff spinning, gotta remember to put fluid in there just waiting on the cv axles to come.Haynes says torque specs for crossmember bolts are 37lb ft but shouldn't those 2 large 21mm bolts be a higher spec?..anyone got any other info on that..

 

[Mooseman]

You talking about the large bolts that hold the lower A arm? Yeah, those take a ton of torque.

Front Lower Control Arm Bracket - Bolt/Nut Question

Hello everyone- I have a 2005 Envoy XL with about 160K miles and it is time to replace the front lower control arms and brakets due to much squeaking. I would rather replace the whole unit (which includes the ball joint) instead of trying to deal with the replacing the bushings. I have a...

gmtnation.com

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@Mooseman im talking about these..

 

[xavierny25]

@Uncleenvoy Mooseman gave you the right thread for you to read through for the torque spec.

Front mount bolt is 195, rear bolt is 177.
I do believe it is the highest value in the vehicle. And for reference, the LCA-to-bracket nuts are 81.

 

[Mooseman]

Yes, those two bolts are the rear LCA bracket bolts @177ft/lbs.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@ mooseman @xavierny25 thanks got it I didn't realize those were LCA bracket bolts..so glad I asked..at 37lbs I was waaay off..torque wrench maxes out at 150 so a quarter turn extra? A half turn, full turn? Whaddya think?

 

[xavierny25]

At 37lbs you would of lost your alignment making a left or right turn out of your driveway or parking spot. Lol. Use the torque to get you to 150 then a breaker bar and a piece of pipe to give you some leverage and give it I'd say about a 1/4 turn if not a little more.

 

[Mooseman]

I'd say 1/8 turn above 150lbs. When at that torque, it doesn't take much to get to those higher numbers. To give you an idea, do it at 130 and then again at 150 to give you an idea how much it takes for that 20lbs.

You don't want to overtorque neither as you don't want to break those weld nuts (a PITA to deal with) or strip them.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@xavierny25 your right and I would of probably taken the whole front end apart trying to figure out the problem..I did what u and moose said geez that was tough even with the breaker bar and some pipe I was still struggling what do mechanics have a 5 foot torque wrench?

 

[Uncleenvoy]

Passenger UCA joint was done... I bought one a ways back so figured while waiting on the cv axles I'd just take care of that while I still have the loaner press tool

 

[Uncleenvoy]

But of course while doing that I noticed the UCA was moving and making a noise ..those bushings were gone..I haven't looked at any vids on taking out a UCA yet but are you supposed to have to go at them from under the hood? There was no clearance from the side

 

[xavierny25]

But of course while doing that I noticed the UCA was moving and making a noise ..those bushings were gone..I haven't looked at any vids on taking out a UCA yet but are you supposed to have to go at them from under the hood? There was no clearance from the side

Theres actually a write up on how to do it at the wheel well but I guess working from the top worked for you. I think you may of missed a craigslist listing, guy had 2 acdelco uppers for 100 bucks. I think I have a pair at my brothers shop I can give you. I currently have an aftermarket set I'm running.

 

[TollKeeper]

The bushings, and install process, arent worth the time of just replacing them. I got mine from Advance Auto Parts, with bushings. They were like 79 bucks a side, or if you can wait, you can order the UCA from DetroitAxle/eBay for 45 for both sides.

The bushings are 13-35, and its just not worth it in my opinion.

Edit: If you do end up just doing the bushings, make sure you have something wedged into the open space on the control arm, as while you are pushing the old out, or the new in, will bend the control arm around the area where the bushing goes.

 

[Uncleenvoy]

@xavierny25 thanks for the offer man.. I just bought one off amazon..the same ones @TollKeeper is talking about..advanced didn't have them in stock but amazon had the same brand and part number dorman 520-144 for $35 advance was 85..be here sat.. I'll wait