Bolt trouble

TequilaWarrior

Well-Known Member
How can you tell if you've begun to pull the threads out of a bolt hole?

Backstory: My water pump went out on me on Friday (1/4/19). I picked up a new WP, belt, & coolant and installed them on Saturday. The book I have is well.... not in the greatest shape. I couldn't find the bolt torque specs. Also, when I removed the pump, every one of the pump flange bolts was a little over finger tight (one WAS finger tight). They also had a lot of "schmutz" on the threads. After cleaning them very well, I applied antiseize and installed the pump, gasket & bolts. I tightened in a "lug nut" style / criss-cross pattern. But it seamed like every quarter turn or so the next bolt would be loose. I ended up tightening them without regard to a torque spec as I didn't have the torque spec to look at (stupid me, I could've come here) and I didn't have a torque wrench (or inch-pound gauge - also stupid me). Checking the service manuals I just downloaded yields a torque spec of 89 in-lbs. I DEFINITELY overtorqued these. As I finished up, it felt like I could still torque them more - now I'm concerned that I may have begun to pull the threads out of the block. I did check the "feel" of the torque against the timing cover bolts and I didn't tighten the WP nearly as tight as my front cover, but I'm also very sure that those are overtorqued.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
If you would have pulled them, you would have felt it. While tightening, you can feel it letting go. I think you're fine. Just keep an eye out for leaks as you normally would.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
If the Water Pump winds up with an unfortunate leak and it becomes necessary to perform a Thread Repair... if there are no Metric Heli-Coil Kits to suit this repair... THIS Kit will do the trick if the Fasteners there measure out to M8 X 1.25MM.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Time-Sert-1812-M8-x-1-25-Metric-Thread-Repair-Kit/282289364765?epid=5017021483&hash=item41b9c1df1d:g:9c0AAOSwnCFaKtp4:sc:USPSPriority!33760!US!-1:rk:1:pf:0

TIMESERTKITM8X125.jpg


The Three other things required will be:

(1) A Decent Tap Handle Tool Holder.
(2) TIME-SERT Insert Driver Oil (Use a few drops on threads B4 threading on the SERT).
(3) TIME-SERT Loc-Tite (Daubed onto the last few SERT Threads B4 screwing it into the Block).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ratcheting-Ratchet-Hand-T-Handle-Tap-Holder-Holding-Tapping-Wrench-Tapper-Tool/263982195154?hash=item3d7690a1d2:g:ascAAOSwEK9UHFST:rk:43:pf:0

I SWEAR by THIS Tool as being Half The Battle of getting GOOD RESULTS because it holds the Tool Bits tightly and allows for working in micro-ratcheting-increments better than the Cheap T-Tap Handles... especially when using the TIME-SERT Drill Bit BY HAND when drilling out the Prep Holes on VERY Small Fasteners where using a Hand Held Drill would be Much Too Aggressive:

RATCHETAPHANDLE.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IZIBJ04/?tag=elightbars-20

TIMESERTHREADLOCKER.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WRDK2I/?tag=elightbars-20

TIMESERTINSTALLTOOLOIL.jpg
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
...and Drill out the related Bolt Hole in Pump Flange and Metal Gasket, too if the New Bolt needs a bit more room to slip on through.
 
Last edited:

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