Better U-Joint

Mooseman

Original poster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Hey guys, I need to replace the U-joints in the Saab. ACDelco through Amazon are the best cheap option here. Two choices are these:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000C9Q2UG/?tag=gmtnation-20

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000C9Q6PW/?tag=gmtnation-20

The first one with the grease zerk in the cup is listed as heavy duty on RA and the other with the zerk in the trunion as a regular replacement type. I like the idea of the zerk in the cup which makes it easier to grease. Anybody have any experience with this type? Are they worth the extra $4 ($3USD)?
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I hate the zerks in the trunion because you can never get to them without disconnecting the shaft (at least in my experience, maybe my grease gun sucks). But, is the zerk in only one of the cups going to let grease get to the far side? I'd almost rather see zerks on every single cup. But I guess if it does work fine it doesn't really matter.

Maybe it is just the picture but that is a funky looking great fitting though. It is really flat. How's it supposed to work?
 

Mektek

Member
May 2, 2017
656
FL
How do you figure this in the item description:
  • Comprised of a pair of hinges connected at a right angle
Where do you install the hinges?????:bonk:

The picture of the one with the fitting in the cap shows a plug, not a grease zerk.
I would suggest that the fitting in the trunnion is centrally located and will send the grease more equally to all points. You only have to grease it every few years so even if it's a bit harder to do it's not a big deal.
 
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Redbeard

Member
Jan 26, 2013
3,466
I like the idea of zerk fittings, but the past 30 years I haven't need to change one u joint! In the '70's it seemed I would help friends change their joints several time a year at least. So now a days I believe with the better metals and lubricants I wouldn't worry about it. Just my 2¢ cents.
 

Mooseman

Original poster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I've seen these a couple of times. On RA, it said it's supposed to be a needle fitting for that zerk. I'd replace it with a normal zerk. I'd put that small zerk back on as I don't like the idea of a normal zerk sticking out and possibly getting ripped off or causing an imbalance. I think that the grease would still distribute itself to all cups although that one cup would probably get more of the "fresh" grease.

The PITA of greasing the zerk in the trunion is my main reason for looking at them. I too don't replace them very often and probably would be the last ones for this truck. AFAIK, my old '02 had the originals with over 300k km. It would be an experiment for me in case I need to replace others.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I avoid the ones with zerks personally.
 

xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
I went the zerk route a few weeks back when I replaced all 3 on the Voy. The rear driveshaft ones are a pain to get out (just when I thought I had enough heat on them to push them out they still gave me hell). Oh and yes there going to be a bear to grease when the time comes but what's done is done.
 
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Chickenhawk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
779
Years ago, sealed U-joints were considered stronger because they were not cross-drilled for grease channels. The seals were also different because they didn't need to be soft enough to pass grease through them. The greaseable ones were okay if you did a lot of water crossings while off-roading.

These days, cheaper U-joints are probably made the same and the sealed ones are also cross-drilled but simply don't drill out the last inch for a zerk fitting.

Based on past experience, one never gets the same service life as the original joints but have always found the good quality sealed ones lasted longer, and the greaseable ones with the zerk in the body lasted the shortest. Personally, I would go with the best quality non-greasable ones first, or the greaseable ones with the fitting in the cup second (but only if you are prepared to spend time greasing them every few years.)

Moog, SKF and AC Delco all carry have the high-end ones with the needle fitting in the cup. They don't just cross-drill across the weakest part of the joint; they drill from cup to cup, through the strongest part.

MOOGSuperStrengthUJointCutaway.jpg


On Moog's image above, #3 is the fitting and grease channels on their Super Strength joint, and #6 is the grease reservoir for the non-greaseable version.

On the other hand, high-quality u-joints of all three types are better than cheap ones that wear out faster.
 
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Mooseman

Original poster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I hadn't really thought of it that way. It is true that the OEM are not greasable and last a long time. I did find the non-greasable "heavy duty" type at basically the same price:
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0013FTYXA/?tag=gmtnation-20

And I won't have to deal with the hassle of greasing them. I'll order these and report back on if they are cross drilled.
 

Chickenhawk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
779
Strange that most places list them as greaseable but some reviews say they are not.

As far as Canada, NAPA Canada is sometimes cheaper than Amazon.ca and similar to Rock Auto if you factor in no shipping charges plus a 10% CAA discount if you have that. I have a NAPA one block from work, so the convenience is often worth their higher prices.

After all, if non-greaseable ones last as long (and possibly longer) and I don't do too many boat launches or water crossings, I don't really want to crawl under there every few years to add grease.
 
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Mooseman

Original poster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
I saw that RA says it's greasable but there were a couple of reviews that said they weren't. And NAPA's prices aren't as good as Amazon except for their cheap greasable one. Even with the CAA discount, it's just barely the same price and I have to go pick it up. I looked at the Moog and that NAPA SD and they are not similar. I can clearly see that the ACDelco is the same as the Moog SD. The NAPA SD seems to be made by SKF with that circle in the trunion.

I already ordered the ACDelco along with a strap kit. My son just replaced his in his Silvy and the regular greasable ACdelco cost him $40 each at Benson's and he needed straps as his were stretched.
 
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littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
My experience is the non serviceable ones don't last. That's also on a boat where they are constantly damp and pivot with trim and steering input significantly more than a car or truck ever should. Mercury also has a special grease for it that is among the nastiest tackiest crap I have ever used.

Back on topic, I don't really think it matters. With the sealed, if you forget to grease, it isn't a big deal because you can't... with greaseable... it also probably doesn't matter really as long as it got its first hit. That all being said I install u-joints with a vise and a BFH so take anything I say with a grain of salt...
 
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Chickenhawk

Member
Dec 6, 2011
779
That makes sense Mooseman. Moog and AC Delco are both made by Federal-Mogul, so it makes sense that if Moog has severe duty greaseable and non-greaseable, AC Delco Professional will have the identical ones with different stock numbers.

Most NAPA u-joints are made by Rayloc (Genuine Parts Company) and the Brute Force are made by SKF. Dana are made by Dana/Spicer. So that leaves four players in the u-joint market: Federal-Mogul (Moog, AC Delco), Rayloc (NAPA), Dana Spicer (Spicer) and SKF.

I think you made a good choice. Let us know when they come in.

As far as greaseable versus non-greaseable, I would sooner have non-greaseable I never grease than greaseable I never grease. Theoretically, the non-greaseable ones have better seals and contain an internal grease reservoir. So it just makes sense that unserviced greaseable joints will dry out faster, and once greaseable joints dry out, life will be much shorter. Greaseable are great when exposed to a lot of water but non-greaseable will last much longer for the average person who sometimes forgets to service them.
 
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mrrsm

Lifetime VIP Donor
Supporting Donor
Member
Oct 22, 2015
7,639
Tampa Bay Area
...and if after finding Severe Drive Shaft Vibration and God Forbid you cannot get your hands on a Brand New Replacement U-Joint... from around 29 Minutes on in this Video... there is some Very Good Advice on how to make your Old One serviceable ...and how to make the Yoke portion of the Differential "presentable" once again for the re-installation. Even if you are using a Brand New "Zerked" U-Joint... the Prep Work being described here is worth knowing about:

U-Joint R&R Needle Bearing Cap Rusting Issues vs The Yoke Cradle for the Rear Driveshaft ...with these two Videos coming from our Friend... Eric "O" from South Main Auto:


 
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BrianF

Member
Jul 24, 2013
1,192
West central Sask.
I read so much on this, no real evidence to suggest either is better than the other, it is all internet speculation. I went the greaseable route and it is nice to see the crap come out when pumping new grease in (I see a lot of dust, mud, gravel on the grid roads) but it can be a pain as I grease them about every 7 or 8 months now.

I had my tie rod ends and U joints fail, both were bone dry and rusty. Now I can somewhat monitor them and knock on wood I have not had issues in years.
 

far eastan

Member
Mar 9, 2023
52
japan
Good evening.
I will replace the universal joint this time.
I prepared Greaseable and Non-Greaseable.
What I am worried about is the rust of grease nipple.
A few years ago, I purchased a professional type of ACDELCO's stabilizer link.
It was written that it was rust protective paint, but it quickly rusted.
Grease nipple is already unusable.
The new grease nipple is applied with grease and a cap.

However, can a general grease nipple cap be attached to the flat grease ZERK attached to the bearing cap?

How do those who use this protect the flat grease ZERK from the rust?

Regarding "plastic injected universal joint", I watched a YouTube video that heats the burner and removes plastic.
However, it is explained that rust may occur in the hollow that has taken out plastic, and that the GM manual is removed without heating. Is it possible to cut or break plastic with a simple press machine (large C clamp) without heating?
(I'm worried that the joints of the joint will be distorted)
If possible, I want to take out the joint without heating.
 

Mooseman

Original poster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
However, can a general grease nipple cap be attached to the flat grease ZERK attached to the bearing cap?
Probably not. There's nothing to retain it on the nipple.

How do those who use this protect the flat grease ZERK from the rust?
There's not much we can do and we even use salt here in winter. If you replace it with a regular zerk type nipple, it is usually made of aluminum or another rust resistant metal.

However, it is explained that rust may occur in the hollow that has taken out plastic, and that the GM manual is removed without heating. Is it possible to cut or break plastic with a simple press machine (large C clamp) without heating?
Same procedure however the heat softens the nylon plastic requiring less force to break them. I once distorted the ears when I didn't heat them. I've been heating them ever since. This is especially true with the aluminum shafts. Rust is of no concern as it will just be scraped off by the ears.

If possible, I want to take out the joint without heating.
It is strongly suggested to use heat. A propane torch is fine. It doesn't need to be heated to red hot.
 

far eastan

Member
Mar 9, 2023
52
japan
Good evening.
thank you.
I understood well.

"HD Line" and "Non-Greaseable" had DANA. This is two Joints, the rear shaft.
"HD Line" or "Non-Greaseable" was not found in the front shaft Joint.
For this reason, we purchase GM genuine products for small Joints on the front shaft.
Greaseable type joints are sold or spare.

Thank you for advice on how to change the joint.
I will heat it with a small gas can burner for household use.
thank you very much.
 
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JayArr

Member
Sep 24, 2018
504
Mission BC Canada
I replaced my u-joints a couple of weeks ago and they came with 'female' grease fittings in the end of the ujoint. Basically it was in one of the caps. I say female because it wasn't the usual zerk fitting it was a flat fitting with a ball in the center and I had to buy a needle point end for my grease gun.

The upside is that it's now super easy to grease them. The end is so much easier to get at than a zerk fitting in the center crevice of the ujoint. You just spin the shaft until the end cap with the grease fitting is facing down and accessible.
 
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far eastan

Member
Mar 9, 2023
52
japan
Good evening.
I read your transmission REBUILD thread.
There is too much difference from my ability and it is unknown whether it will be a real reference, but I read it interestingly.
Someday, I hope I can acquire the skills like you.

That said, if the transmission is not broken, that's best.


About grease nipple.
Unlike before, it was stated that there was no difference in durability depending on the presence or absence of grease additional functions.
I was interested in heavy duty and grease -up.
However, given the rust of grease nipple, I am worried that the CAP cannot be attached.
However, in Rockauto, the universal joint HD line is all Flat Grease Zerk or Non-Greaseable and the daily use is a normal nipple.
If there is a nipple in the center of the universal joint on the Heavy Duty line, I may have chosen it.

I think it will be easier to replace the universal joint (without the injected plastic) once replaced. In Non-Greaseable Joint, it is not bad to replace it in five or ten years without worrying about rust.
 

JayArr

Member
Sep 24, 2018
504
Mission BC Canada
You're right about replacing the u-joints the second time, they are far easier once the injected plastic has been broken, replaceing the non-greasable joints every five to ten years is a perfectly acceptable way to go.
 

far eastan

Member
Mar 9, 2023
52
japan
Good evening.
The parts I purchased have arrived and are replacing the universalJoint.
First, the propeller shaft was removed.
My U-JOINT was not rattled at all and there was no fixation.
It was operating smoothly and in a very good condition.

For replacement, I heated it with a burner according to the advice.
However, it may be due to the lack of heat, but the only plastic eruption was Slipyoke's ears.
The front and rear ears of the propeller shaft did not erupt at all.
I gave up and pushed out with a clamp while maintaining the high temperature.
The insertion of Joint is going well.
I hope that there is no change in the material by heating in the burner, and there is no invisible deformation due to pressure.
 
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far eastan

Member
Mar 9, 2023
52
japan
I have one question.
The GM maintenance manual states that if there is not enough grease on the spline, it will be applied.

I saw a lot of YouTube for replacing GM U-Joint.
Professional shop, professional mechanic, amateur DIY, etc.
However, I do not remember the person who "applied grease" to slipyoke.


In addition, blue oil dripped on the sheet from the transfer.
Probably GM Auto Trak2. I think the oil changed a few years ago was blue.
Probably it is normal for the oil to soak into the spline for lubrication.
Is this correct?
If it is correct, is it correct to apply grease on the outside and inside of the slip york?
Is there a problem if I drive without "grease up"?

I checked Slipyoke and the transfers, but there was a blue fluid oil, but I couldn't find anything like grease.
Currently, the outside of Slipyoke has been wiped, but the transfer side is in its original state.

I do not have an appropriate grease, and there is no GM specified grease nearby.
For the time being, I urgently purchased Royal Purple 01312 as an alternative, but it takes a few days to arrive.
Is it better not to move the car during the period?
I don't seem to be much different from the previous state.
Thank you for all advice. thank you.
 

Mooseman

Original poster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
The GM maintenance manual states that if there is not enough grease on the spline, it will be applied.
This is to prevent clunking in the slip yoke. A lot of people don't think of doing it.

In addition, blue oil dripped on the sheet from the transfer.
Probably GM Auto Trak2. I think the oil changed a few years ago was blue.
Probably it is normal for the oil to soak into the spline for lubrication.
Is this correct?
No. The oil doesn't make it into the splines of the yoke. The grease is to provide a "cushion" between the splines to prevent clunking. Apply some grease to the internal splines of the yoke.

I do not have an appropriate grease, and there is no GM specified grease nearby.
For the time being, I urgently purchased Royal Purple 01312 as an alternative, but it takes a few days to arrive.
Is it better not to move the car during the period?
I don't seem to be much different from the previous state.
Any grease will do. You can drive it, it may make that clunk, especially when coming to a stop. Once you get the grease, remove the driveshaft again and apply the grease to the inside splines.

If you lost some blue transfer case fluid, replace it with Auto Trak 2 fluid. In fact, if it's never been replaced, you should drain and replace all the fluid for proper maintenance. It has a relatively short interval of 50k miles/80k km. If it's not maintained properly, it can damage the transfer case.
 
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far eastan

Member
Mar 9, 2023
52
japan
thank you.
As soon as the grease arrives, apply grease inside the slip yoke.
About half from the pipe entrance (front) and is the degree of filling the groove the "appropriate amount"?
Should I apply more?
I feel that it is good not to overflow in the transfer case.

Does AUTO TRAK 2 help lubricate "Slip YOKE outside"?
Or is it just oozing out?
Transfer fluid oil has been running only 2-30000 km since I replaced it last time. I think it's still fresh.
thank you.
 

Mooseman

Original poster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Just a skittle smear into each spline is all it takes.. It doesn't need a lot.

I do believe the transfer case fluid does lubricate the outer seal bit not the splines. Wouldn't hurt to add a bit of grease on the seal too.
 

far eastan

Member
Mar 9, 2023
52
japan
thank you.
I couldn't understand the meaning of Skittle Smear.
When I look up Skitle, I get to the game and whiskey flask.
However, the most common image was sugar -coating chocolate like M&Ms.
Perhaps it might be the meaning of applying a grease of about one bean..
I am frightened by a completely different possibility.

The seal material may be damaged when inserting dry slipyoke.
I will apply it very thinly on the outside.

Thank you very much.
 

Mooseman

Original poster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
Lol! Damn auto correct. It's "little" smear 😁
 

far eastan

Member
Mar 9, 2023
52
japan
Hello.
I removed the rear propeller shaft again.
The grease was applied to Slipyoke about "Little" Smear.

However, this time, I confirmed that AUTO TRAK 2 fell from the inside of Slipyoke.
In the previous propeller shaft installation, I did not apply grease or fluid inside slipyoke.
It drip more than two tablespoons.
After grease and the fluid mixed, I am a little worried that the transfers will not pollution.

In addition,I exchanged U -joints at the front, but there was a problem.
The U -joints on the front had no plastic injection and had a C clip.
However, removing the U -joint was more difficult than the rear.
Finally, I put pressure on the C clamp and removed it, but this may have caused a problem.
I replaced it, and finally applied grease to the front slipyoke.
This was because the old grease remained inside, so I wasn't worried about applying grease. I cleaned it and applied a new grease.
And I did a test run.
There was no problem with 2WD up to about 60 km / h (37Mph).
In 4WD, vibration is generated at 30 to 40 km / h (18 to 24 mph).
This speed is when you are stepping on the accelerator pedal.
It does not vibrate in the accelerator off.
Perhaps the yoke has been deformed, or there may be other problems.
It is possible that the same problem had existed before the exchange.
However, I may have made an extra problem by working on parts that are not yet troubled.

I have a headache.
 

Mooseman

Original poster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,257
Ottawa, ON
You are not supposed to use 4wd on a dry solid surface like asphalt. This will bind the front and rear wheels due to the slight variance in tire size. That's why there is no vibration in 2wd.

I think you're fine. Don't overthink possible problems you may not have.
 

far eastan

Member
Mar 9, 2023
52
japan
I am always grateful for your help.
I'm a little relieved in your words.

I didn't want to put too much burden on running 4WD, so I tested it on a straight road.

Vibration always occurred at 3-40 km/h, and it did not occur at 20 km/h or 60 km/h.
Regarding the vibration, I will look a little more.
I will try more when it becomes a smooth snowy road in winter.
thank you very much.
I will move on to the next repair.
 

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