NEED HELP Best way to lock flywheel for harmonic balancer replacement.

[mrrsm]

I would not invest in getting New Replacement Motor Mounts just yet. The actual "Motor Suspension" involves THREE Mounts, with the one under the 4L60E being the Third Leg of this Stool. Check that spot out and R&R it if it looks "Tired".

But before swapping any other parts in and out, I would almost want to try downloading and exploring with an APP like THIS one that can take advantage of the multiple Accelerometers available within your Cell Phone and then CLEARLY Graph the range of Frequencies and their Amplitudes.

‎Vibration

‎Vibration is a true vibration spectrum analyzer using the built in accelerometers and gyroscope inside the iPod Touch and the iPhone and starting with version 3.x it can sample the built in microphone and the Digiducer professional quality external USB accelerometer. It acquires and displays...

apps.apple.com

Why somebody hasn't come up with a basic Handful of Cheap Piezo-Electric Vibration Transducers that can be easily read on a hand-held device via a harness is beyond me.

Anyway... THIS APP is meant for the I-Phones & I-Pads and would definitely help to narrow down exactly WTH is going on with your Motor and help with figuring out what to look at. Can't say whether or not the Android Phones have anything similar.

You would simply lay the phone flat on top of the Resonator Box to take a Vibrfation Sample directly from the Engine... and then repeat this procedure at various places on the Fenders and the top of the Radiator for comparison.

I don't have a PICO or a Hantek Vibration Wave Form for Bad Motor Mounts Vibrations Testing... but something around 10 Hertz seems like it would be in the Ball Park. Other more knowledgeable Members should correct me if the "Guess Hertz" or Vibrations CPS is too far off.:

As for the Fuel Smell... Try to re-trace your Latest Repair Foot Steps around that NON-OEM Fuel Pressure Regulator and the Engine Vacuum Lines and such that are attached to the On-Engine Fuel Vapor Purge Valve. More than likely... something obvious will be there for you to find upon closer inspection.

This is especially true if you are NOT getting any EVAP Codes and could not smell any Dangerous Gas Fumes prior to doing this work. Using an inexpensive 7-9 mm Fiber-Optic Camera to inspect the Fuel Pump Piping and Hoses can show you any excessively Rusted Piping that may have cracked in those Mild Steel Elbows and and are now leaking... or even show any Gasoline pooling inside the Plastic Well of the Fuel Tank.

Please remember that Gasoline also decays into the atmosphere releasing Carbon Monoxide (CO) and THAT is a definite Life Threatening Hazard... so if you do NOT get this problem sorted out before leaving on your trip... Remember to Crack Open A Few Windows along the way and mind how you and your family feel if you start getting drowsy or stomach sick. Forewarned is Forearmed.

 

[Timber531]

Awsome, thank you for your insight and concerns, ill have my 2yo son with me so definately appreciated.

I did find an app for android on Google play. Over 1m downloads and 4.4* ill post screenshots after I run the test in a few mins.

Also I'll send some pics of fpr.

I did grab new mounts but that was just in case, I can always return them but I also got a tranny mount with the mounts I bought from Amazon.

And last night omw to autozone to pick up duralast mounts (they are hydraulic but acdelco were 2x the price 😒) I did start getting some new data, after plugging that male hose connection on the plenum by fpr, It started driving noticably better, fuel trims looked great, vibrations had decreased, vibrations still there,, but less intense for sure.

Then last night.... stft went up to around 15%.... everything else looked decent, I'm going to post some live data results in just a few mins.

I have a feeling the line going to the purge valve from tbody might have something going on, but what is the easiest way to test that for leaks? Can I grab a cigarette and try the smoke test from tb hose end??

 

[Mooseman]

Probably the easiest is to spray carb cleaner on hoses and connections as well as around the intake manifold and injectors while it's running and notice a change in RPM.

 

[Timber531]

MRRSM-
Downloaded that vibration app I had mentioned it was more like the Richter scale, but here are the readings I got. I'll post a link if you're able to watch but the video has a few points where I had to move the phone back onto the resonator but the vibrations were pretty consistent.


Mooseman-
I had tried the carb cleaner and hit the engine bay w some propane as well but nothing. Was wondering maybe throttle body? I've cleaned it a few times but I was looking at data and wasn't sure if I was getting good or bad data.

What are the normal readings for these? ill list what I have from recent hookup Idk what normal numbers would be, couldn't fund any kind of control data.

load_PCT% - fluctuates roughly between around 25-30%
Sparkadv° - also fluctuates roughly 15-20
Tp% - around 13 give or take a bit
Shrtft12% - 99.2%

 

[mrrsm]

Without knowing what your X & Y Axis Categories and Scales are for the Time Segmentation and for Amplitude... interpreting those results is difficult. I'll suggest performing the Same Test inside the vehicle with the APP running (with no adjustment to the original test paramaters) while the phone is laid flat upon the Dash Board.

At the very least... that image you captured shows that the engine is oscillating from side to side very consistently and that there were no apparent performance related shudders appearing on screen.

It would be helpful to also record a "Transition Video" showing what changes might occur whenever you shift the Transmission into Gear (Parking Brake Set...Foot on the Brake ...and hopefully with someone keeping an eye on the Phone) and then shifting back into Neutral or Park... without Raising the RPM.

 

[Timber531]

Ok ill give that a shot tomorrow and I'll post my results following your steps, was thinking about getting a new obd2 (either Bluetooth or corded, no preference, just whatever you guys would recommend for diagnosing problems like this w/o a code)

something wierd just happened though, maybe 30 minutes ago.
So this morning I had removed the throttle body and cleaned the h3ll out of it, did notice some oily residue on the inside of the resonator and inside plenum, not a whole lot in the res, but an even coating inside plenum. (Not sure on how it's supposed to look tbh, there was so much carbon buildup when I cleaned it during valve cover gasket job)

Disconnected battery
Used contact cleaner on tb and maf sensor
Checked for leaks again hooked everything back up
Startup, idle 3 mins
Off 60 seconds
Idle 3mins and drove around the block and parked

Nothing had really changed but went out to run some errands and pulling up to the house, slowly pulled into carport and out of nowhere it died. But it was really quiet and sudden the way it died idk.

I didn't get any codes but I did get a check gauges light until I had cranked it over again.

The wierd part was that it was running/idling amazing after that. I shut it down after looking at live data for a sec and called it a night.

Any ideas on wtf that was?

 

[aaserv]

It can take days for the relearn to get back to normal. The computer has to reset itself and some of the functions dont update everytime you run the car. the checks are run at all kinds of intervals and conditions . Recheck everything for vacuum leaks and keep on driving it normally. It will probably clear up...
Thats why if at all possible NEVER unplug the throttle body for cleaning and NEVER disconnect the battery. There is an old video on YT by a former member here who shows how to do it and gives a great rant on y unplugging it can lead to disaster.

 

[aaserv]

BTW....I know your going to hate this but NEVER use contact cleaner on those parts. There is cleaner made specifically for the TB and MS. Brake cleaner, contact cleaner etc can eat away at the smooth finish and cause it to corrode ....and even ruin the Sensor altogether.

 

[Timber531]

BTW....I know your going to hate this but NEVER use contact cleaner on those parts. There is cleaner made specifically for the TB and MS. Brake cleaner, contact cleaner etc can eat away at the smooth finish and cause it to corrode ....and even ruin the Sensor altogether.

Never hate hearing good advice, after some time had gone on I learned about the negatives of disconnecting batteries, but didn't know the throttle body was the same. Before I learned that I would disconnect the battery before almost any maintenance was done thinking I was protecting the car.

And I've been using contact cleaner almost religiously, glad ya told me about it though, really appreciate it 👍🏻

Any suggestions on a decent scan tool for looking at the live data and graphing everything? Don't wanna spend too much but don't wanna pos.

Also, you know what was up with the power killing the engine while parking?

 

[aaserv]

If your familiar with the Torque app and maybe others like it there is a thread here that some members have been working on for a few years that they have found/added virtually every reading the computer is capable of reading.
Myself Im lost with it, I cant get Torque app to even do what it says out the box....and when I read that thread it might as well be in Latin. I have no clue what they are talking about. Admittedly Ive never asked them to help and Im sure they probably would but being 1 of the older non-technical members here they would probably have to hold my hand thru every step.

Another problem that I may be stating wrong but the idea is right, is that the older Enovys like -03-04 and maybe later use a different i guess its a software system and when you run the standard hand help cheap scan tools you dont get anywhere near the amount of info you get with later models. I have a lil $80 hand held and all it will read is the very basic info on my 03. I hook the same tool up to my 2010 Chevy van and get double the info.
Im sure your more capable with apps than I am so ck out the thread on the one theyve developed here. Cant be a cheaper way to go and the amount of info they can pull off of the computer is amazing..

 

[mrrsm]

For the "Engine Suddenly DIES" Symptom, uncover the Under Hood Power Distribution Center Cover and check whether or not the Galvanized Fasteners holding the Fuse Block to the Harnesses connected from underneath are TIGHT. In some situations with the engine and body vibrating... anything loose there can momentarily separate the connections from the myriad electrical circuits and Shut Down the Motor.

 

[59840Surfer]

Ok ill give that a shot tomorrow and I'll post my results following your steps, was thinking about getting a new obd2 (either Bluetooth or corded, no preference, just whatever you guys would recommend for diagnosing problems like this w/o a code)

something wierd just happened though, maybe 30 minutes ago.
So this morning I had removed the throttle body and cleaned the h3ll out of it, did notice some oily residue on the inside of the resonator and inside plenum, not a whole lot in the res, but an even coating inside plenum. (Not sure on how it's supposed to look tbh, there was so much carbon buildup when I cleaned it during valve cover gasket job)

Disconnected battery
Used contact cleaner on tb and maf sensor
Checked for leaks again hooked everything back up
Startup, idle 3 mins
Off 60 seconds
Idle 3mins and drove around the block and parked

Nothing had really changed but went out to run some errands and pulling up to the house, slowly pulled into carport and out of nowhere it died. But it was really quiet and sudden the way it died idk.

I didn't get any codes but I did get a check gauges light until I had cranked it over again.

The wierd part was that it was running/idling amazing after that. I shut it down after looking at live data for a sec and called it a night.

Any ideas on wtf that was?

#1 do not disconnect the battery. That just ruins things and isn't necessary for what you're doing anyway.

#2 ... Watch this video concerning the oil in your sound deadening housing ...

 

[Mooseman]

Has the ignition switch been looked at yet? Maybe while driving, your key chain moves a bit just enough to affect a marginal switch.