Battery Relocation

ConeKilrAutoX

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
1,179
Hi all... has anyone relocated their battery? I will need to relocate mine to the inside of the envoy so I can route my intercooler piping up through where the current battery location is.

thanks for the help :thumbsup:
 

McGMT

Member
Jun 17, 2012
621
ConeKilrAutoX said:
Hi all... has anyone relocated their battery? I will need to relocate mine to the inside of the envoy so I can route my intercooler piping up through where the current battery location is.

thanks for the help :thumbsup:

As long as you don't skimp on "skinny" wire for both the starter feed and the feeds to the underhood fuse block and megafuse going to the interior fuse block you will be fine... Just make extremely good connections and all.... These vehicles use alot of power and do not like voltage/current sags... Right Roadie? haha
 

McGMT

Member
Jun 17, 2012
621
ConeKilrAutoX said:
Great! Thanks. Yes i plan on 0 gauge if i can find some so there is less resistance. 100amp inline fuse..short ground length

Your really gonna have to watch that. The feed to the interior fuse block itself has a 125A fuse feeding to it, If you go with a single wire and a 100A fuse you can probably expect to constantly blow the fuse. You need to feed not only they starter and the underhood block but also that power hungry interior block with its 125A limit. Scope the wiring out real good befor you commit.
 

ConeKilrAutoX

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
1,179
McGMT said:
Your really gonna have to watch that. The feed to the interior fuse block itself has a 125A fuse feeding to it, If you go with a single wire and a 100A fuse you can probably expect to constantly blow the fuse. You need to feed not only they starter and the underhood block but also that power hungry interior block with its 125A limit. Scope the wiring out real good befor you commit.

oh damn i forgot about that rear block, so I would definitely need a bigger fuse... what would you suggest is the best way to wire this? I dont want to F:lipsrsealed: it up :confused:
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,273
Brighton, CO
Im wondering if it wouldnt be wiser to run a seperate wire to the rear fuse block.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,778
Tampa Bay Area, FL
TollKeeper said:
Im wondering if it wouldnt be wiser to run a seperate wire to the rear fuse block.

ConeKilrAutoX said:
:undecided: hmmm... i would have the battery behind the passenger (in a case and bolted down VERY good)

:undecided: :iagree: I would make one run to the rear block with a 125A fuse, and then a second run up to the front as originally planned. Then disconnect the megafuse and power connections that run to the rear block. That should probably do the trick. :yes:
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
the fuse block draw is the least of your worries. the starter is going to pop a 100a fuse. the fuse box draw, by comparison, is negligible. i would just do a single run of 0ga, with a 250a breaker in the rear. distribution box up front to starter/alt/fusebox

remember, when the truck is running, the fuse block is getting power from the alternator. so the draw you are really concerned about is the starter and the alternator charging the battery
 

TollKeeper

Supporting Donor
Member
Dec 3, 2011
8,273
Brighton, CO
I would run a line like mentioned from the rear battery to the rear fuse block. I would still leave the line from the front to the rear connected, kinda like a redundant line. It doesnt hurt anything to leave it there.
 

ConeKilrAutoX

Original poster
Member
Dec 8, 2011
1,179
ok going by this link let me see if I have this correct....

(+)
Battery to starter
Starter to Front Fuse box or rear fuse box ? it only says Fuse Box on the link :confused:
Alternator to Front Fuse box ? it only says Fuse Box on the link :confused:

(-)
Battery to frame in rear
Existing Engine grounds to common ground in engine bay (i assume a grounded battery distribution block will work for this )

thanks again
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
the ss guys are using the SSR battery box which mounts where the spare tire goes, so the shortest run is down the frame rail to the starter. you could probably use 4ga welding cable without issue. then you take the other end of the existing starter cable, that terminates at the battery terminal, chop that and put a lug terminal on it, and bolt it to the fuse box. then take the alternator cable at the battery terminal, chop that, throw a lug on it, and connect that to the terminal as well

if you are going to mount the battery inside, it may just be easier/shorter run to just run your battery cable straight to the fuse box and connect your starter and alt there as well. depends where you put it. the rear passenger quarter panel, where the compressor goes, is a nice hiding spot if you can get a little battery shelf fabricated

for the ground, ground your battery to the frame and make sure you have decent frame->body and frame->engine grounds up front. just trace the wires from the original battery terminal

forget about the rear fuse box. there is no reason to mess with that unless you feel like spending time and money for no reason
 

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