NEED HELP Battery and Alternator for Sound System Upgrade

NelliM60

Original poster
Member
May 9, 2016
40
Atlantic City, New Jersey
Hey GMT Fam,
For my '03 TB LTZ, I am gearing up to upgrade my sound a little. I've found a sub package that includes two 1500 watt sub speakers, and four 500 watt component speakers for the doors. With that much power, would any of you get a 200 or 250 amp alternator? Or would you just stick to the OE 150 amp alternator? I also have in mind to get the Optima Red Top battery. I don't want to overload the electrical system by putting in a high power batt and amp but I don't want to suck the life out of the trucks' systems by applying underpowered batt and amp that can't handle a sound system with too much juice.
Thanks Guys, your the best.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
The speakers dont use any more power than you feed them no matter what the watt rating. Real data of what kind of amp you will be using is needed.
 
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NelliM60

Original poster
Member
May 9, 2016
40
Atlantic City, New Jersey
This is a copy and paste from the product info:
The Boss AR16002 2-channel car amplifier features a MAX power of 1600 watts and a RMS power of 260 watts at 4-ohm. Other features include the MOSFET power supply, hi/low pass crossover and comes with a bass remote control.
This 8 Gauge amplifier installation kit has everything you need to install your amplifier in your car. The amp kit features a 20-foot 8-gauge red power cable, competition high quality fuse holder, 3-feet of 8-gauge black ground cable, 16-feet of 18-gauge blue turn-on wire, a 20-foot high performance RCA interconnect, 30-feet of speaker wire, 6-feet of split loom tubing, (20) 4' wire ties, (3) rubber grommets, a #10 ring terminal, a 5/16' ring terminal, and a 1/4' ring terminal.
 

littleblazer

Member
Jul 6, 2014
9,265
P=IV using rms power as that is what it could potentially draw constantly 260 watts/13.5volts=19.26 amps. We'll double that to two channels so lets say 40 amps continuous. In reality you'll be using about 1/3 of that pretty much at all times since you hopefully wont be listening to sine waves and I would have to say you'll be fine.....
 
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NelliM60

Original poster
Member
May 9, 2016
40
Atlantic City, New Jersey
P=IV using rms power as that is what it could potentially draw constantly 260 watts/13.5volts=19.26 amps. We'll double that to two channels so lets say 40 amps continuous. In reality you'll be using about 1/3 of that pretty much at all times since you hopefully wont be listening to sine waves and I would have to say you'll be fine.....
So would it be redundant to get a high power alternator (200 or 250 amp)?
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I run more power than that on a stock rebuilt alternator plus my lighting without issue.

My winch draws far far more power and I am just fine with my Duracell battery and the rebuilt alt.

You are good to go.
 
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Reprise

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I hate to potentially open up a can of worms, when the OP indicates he's happy w/ the answers he got, but...

The amp he referenced is a 2-channel (also class A/B, for those wondering)

His description of speakers indicate a 5/6 channel setup (depending on how he wires the subs):
I've found a sub package that includes two 1500 watt sub speakers, and four 500 watt component speakers for the doors.

Given that, what else is he using to power the mains? Or is he using the speaker-level outputs for those? (which, if true, likely aren't going to provide enough power to 500-watt component speakers to drive them properly).

Just curious. You can bridge channels on many amps to use fewer channels than maximum, but I don't know of a way to get more channels than the amp is designed with - so if he's using one 2-channel amp for six speaker outputs...what gives?
 

NelliM60

Original poster
Member
May 9, 2016
40
Atlantic City, New Jersey
I hate to potentially open up a can of worms, when the OP indicates he's happy w/ the answers he got, but...

The amp he referenced is a 2-channel (also class A/B, for those wondering)

His description of speakers indicate a 5/6 channel setup (depending on how he wires the subs):


Given that, what else is he using to power the mains? Or is he using the speaker-level outputs for those? (which, if true, likely aren't going to provide enough power to 500-watt component speakers to drive them properly).

Just curious. You can bridge channels on many amps to use fewer channels than maximum, but I don't know of a way to get more channels than the amp is designed with - so if he's using one 2-channel amp for six speaker outputs...what gives?
Well, my truck has an amp system right under the rear seats on the passenger side opposite from the secondary fuse block. I thought this is what powers the door speakers because on the driver side the front and rear door speakers have great sound with bass. The passenger speakers not so well but I think they are worn. I figure all I need is to pull the wire from the old speakers and apply them to the new, and use the new power amp for the subs which I believe they are intended for only. Please correct me if I'm wrong about that block that is opposite from secondary fuse block. I bought the truck from a used auto dealer, so I'm not completely sure if I'm right about this.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Well, my truck has an amp system right under the rear seats on the passenger side opposite from the secondary fuse block. I thought this is what powers the door speakers because on the driver side the front and rear door speakers have great sound with bass. The passenger speakers not so well but I think they are worn. I figure all I need is to pull the wire from the old speakers and apply them to the new, and use the new power amp for the subs which I believe they are intended for only. Please correct me if I'm wrong about that block that is opposite from secondary fuse block. I bought the truck from a used auto dealer, so I'm not completely sure if I'm right about this.

That's usually where the OnStar module is, if your vehicle is equipped with it. People have been known to ditch OnStar and install other stuff in that location though. Could you snap a pic and share that with us, then we'll be able to give you better info. If you have the Bose system, the amp is usually behind the passenger side cargo panel for SWB trucks, and behind the driver's side cargo panel for LWB trucks.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I did not even address the speakers other than to mention that what they can handle is not what they use. Being he shared a two channel amp and just adding the two subs I saw the implication that the amp was for the subs. Almost any component set can be run off a decent head unit, so I did not see and issue even if the manufacturer claims some BS 500 watt rating. I mean the boss amp shows 1600 watts while only 260 RMS....You will never see 1600 watts from it, but Boss can be decent for budget stereo builds.

If we are going to go down this road...what components are you looking at? What head unit are you using? You say you have a separate amp....do you have the bose system?
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
:yes: That's your OnStar module.

Edit: For a quick check, glance inside the speaker grilles on your dash. If there are tweeters in there, you have the Bose system, if they are empty, then you don't.
 
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NelliM60

Original poster
Member
May 9, 2016
40
Atlantic City, New Jersey
Sorry guys,
Had to take my mother to the doctors today. So in the clips is the unit, it is located under the rear passenger seat. It's not a Bose, I have a short wheel base truck. And Moose is correct, I only bought the extra amp for the subs that will be fitted in the back space behind the rear seats. The regular speakers will go on the doors where there are already OE wire installments that I will just remove from the old speakers and put on the new ones. I'll send you the info on them next. I'm not trying go competitive with the upgrade, just better sound than the OE system.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
I went a similar route when I first bought this truck. Stock speakers were blown in all 4 doors, so I replaced them with some bottom shelf 2 way speakers. I had my 12"s from my last vehicle, so moved them over along with my 300W mono amp. Turned the bass down on the HU so the cheap speakers wouldn't flutter, and turned the bass up on the amp to compensate. Life was good after that.

Some time later, decided to upgrade to a 5 channel amp cuz I found a good deal, rewired things to run the door speakers from it. Sound quality improved a bit. Enough to make me forget about switching to components like I had been wanting to do for a long time. :twocents:
 

NelliM60

Original poster
Member
May 9, 2016
40
Atlantic City, New Jersey
:yes: That's your OnStar module.

Edit: For a quick check, glance inside the speaker grilles on your dash. If there are tweeters in there, you have the Bose system, if they are empty, then you don't.
Oh yes they are definitely empty. Wish I did have a Bose. Okay so that's the OnStar. Well, this is beginning to sound more complicated. I was trying to avoid spending extra bucks on having a pro do the upgrade because I've done stereo hookups for home theater syatems, figured this would not be far from the same concept.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Oh yes they are definitely empty. Wish I did have a Bose. Okay so that's the OnStar. Well, this is beginning to sound more complicated. I was trying to avoid spending extra bucks on having a pro do the upgrade because I've done stereo hookups for home theater syatems, figured this would not be far from the same concept.

That's where (assuming you have a paid subscription an active service) you can push the button on your rear view mirror and have them call you a tow truck, similar to AAA. Also if your check engine light is on, they can read the code remotely and tell you what it is. If you happen to lock your keys in the truck, you can call them and they can send an unlock signal. In the event the vehicle gets stolen, they can slow down the engine if it's running, or block the ignition from firing.

This shouldn't get in the way of your system install, you just have to find another place for your amp. If you aren't using OnStar, and don't plan to, you can disconnect the module, and put your amp there instead. Others have done that in the past.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,665
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Meh, it's all subjective really. I'm a Pioneer guy, out of habit since high school. If you are satisfied with the components to build your new system, that's all that really matters. You're not gonna max out the system very often, if ever so those numbers don't even matter. Well that, and the ability to do the install, and wiring. That's usually the part people are more concerned with. Since you've done that before, you're probably all set.
 
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NelliM60

Original poster
Member
May 9, 2016
40
Atlantic City, New Jersey
Meh, it's all subjective really. I'm a Pioneer guy, out of habit since high school. If you are satisfied with the components to build your new system, that's all that really matters. You're not gonna max out the system very often, if ever so those numbers don't even matter. Well that, and the ability to do the install, and wiring. That's usually the part people are more concerned with. Since you've done that before, you're probably all set.
In my old TrailBlazer I hooked it up with mid range speakers with each peaking at 125 amps....terrible. I had to install a huge 12 inch sub in the back to compensate the absence of bass. Never will I make that mistake again.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
125 amps?

Those components without an amp will not really do anything for bass compared to a subwoofer.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
You really should not look at watts as if a speaker is any good. Quality speakers with an 80 watt rating is far better sounding than those 500 watt boss ones. Typically the higher they push the "watts" the shittier the speakers.
 

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