b&m super cooler 70264 install question

98tsiawd

Original poster
Member
Apr 4, 2012
75
Hey guys I'm getting ready to install my super cooler and was wondering wether or not I should use the fittings that come with the kit, or just cut the tranny line, flare the ends, put the lines on and call it a day. Do you guys recommend using the fittings?
Thanks for the help
 
Dec 4, 2011
520
98tsiawd said:
Hey guys I'm getting ready to install my super cooler and was wondering wether or not I should use the fittings that come with the kit, or just cut the tranny line, flare the ends, put the lines on and call it a day. Do you guys recommend using the fittings?
Thanks for the help

I did a google search for the B&M 70264 cooler and the picture showed a couple of variations of a screw on connector with hose barb.

You will not be able to attach these to you radiator. Our trucks use special quick connect type that is not compatible.

What I did to install my Tru-Cool 4589 was to cut the tranny line on the DRIVERS side at the bottom of the radiator. I left about 4" to make it easier to work with. The flow of the tranny fluid is Tranny to Passenger side radiator, though the internal cooler in radiator, out radiator and back to Tranny. The new external cooler should be in the return line to the tranny, that is why you cut the Drivers side.

Once you cut the line I use both a male and female compression to 3/8 pipe thread. One of each keeps the flow always going in the same direction if you ever disconnect the lines. Once you have the compression fittings installed you can use the appropriate pipe thread fitting to connect to the hose that goes to the cooler. Some folks have had trouble with the compression fittings leaking but I have had none of that.

By the way when you are doing the cooler why not change the tranny fluid (14 liters) and filter. If you go into the tranny pan it is always a good idea to put in a drain for the next time, it is so much cleaner. There are several write ups on doing this, if you are interested let me know and I will dig one up for you.

Here is a link to pics of my install, hope this helps

My tranny cooler hook up with pics - Page 3 - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

Good luck, not too difficult but will still take 3 hours if you do the tranny oil change and filter (make sure you get the proper filter there are two). You can go to your local GM dealer and they will tell you from your vin whether it is the long one or the short one.:thumbsup:
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
These are available all over the net. On etrailer they show it's use in the installation. I plan on using one of these when I put my cooler in.
 

98tsiawd

Original poster
Member
Apr 4, 2012
75
Thanks for the help, much appreciated. I will go with the compression fittings. I flushed and replaced the tranny oil and filter about 20,000kms ago so it’s still good. i like your idea of adding a drain plug to the pan, I’ll definitely plan that for next time.
 

98tsiawd

Original poster
Member
Apr 4, 2012
75
Got the rad back in and cooler installed, I have a tranny oil leak from the fitting from the tranny line that bolts into the rad on the driver side, any recommendations on how to fix this leak? With the fitting tight into the rad I am able to wiggle the hard line a bit, I don't remember if this was this way when I took it out.

Thanks for the help
 
Dec 4, 2011
520
98tsiawd said:
Got the rad back in and cooler installed, I have a tranny oil leak from the fitting from the tranny line that bolts into the rad on the driver side, any recommendations on how to fix this leak? With the fitting tight into the rad I am able to wiggle the hard line a bit, I don't remember if this was this way when I took it out.

Thanks for the help

To the best of my recollection this part just snaps back into the fitting and the cir clip holds the pipe from coming out. Did the clip actually snap over the shoulder or is it perhaps not fully connected. I would remove the cir clip and pull out the pipe and then reinsert it. I don't recall if the clip goes in first and then the pipe or the pipe first and then the clip. I did mine 3 years ago. Sorry. The system is a bit hokey I prefer a threaded piece.

Why did you take the rad out. If there wasn't a specific reason I believe this was unnecessary

Hope you get your problem fixed, but I don't think you have a very serious issue just a small connection problem.
.
 

98tsiawd

Original poster
Member
Apr 4, 2012
75
Thanks for the help, I'll give that a shot tonight. My envoy has 220 000kms on it and I want to start doing some towing with it, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to pull the rad and have it professionally cleaned, it was pretty dirty, I just wanted to makes sure my cooling system is operating 100% before I start towing.
 
Dec 4, 2011
520
98tsiawd said:
Thanks for the help, I'll give that a shot tonight. My envoy has 220 000kms on it and I want to start doing some towing with it, so I figured it wouldn't hurt to pull the rad and have it professionally cleaned, it was pretty dirty, I just wanted to makes sure my cooling system is operating 100% before I start towing.

Now I understand why the rad came out. Hope you got your leak fixed.
 

98tsiawd

Original poster
Member
Apr 4, 2012
75
thanks for the help guys. the fitting is still leaking so I'm going to buy a new one an hope that fix's it. this might be a dumb question but what would happen if i hooked up the cooler backwards? anything?

thanks again
 
Dec 4, 2011
520
98tsiawd said:
thanks for the help guys. the fitting is still leaking so I'm going to buy a new one an hope that fix's it. this might be a dumb question but what would happen if i hooked up the cooler backwards? anything?

thanks again

Not quite sure what you mean backwards. The direction through the aux cooler doesn't really matter as far as I know. If you mean hook it up so that the cool tranny fluid exits the cooler and then back into the rad cooler the internal cooler will heat the oil back up. Remember heat always travels from the hot spot to the cool spot. With the rad running around 190 if the tranny is less than that it will heat the fluid. Now if your fluid is running hotter than that the in rad cooler will actually take heat out but the hotter you run the tranny the quicker it will die.


As to the fitting you will have to get an aftermarket part the factory one is the full length tube. I think someone put up some pics of PCMforless parts.



heatchrt.jpg
 

98tsiawd

Original poster
Member
Apr 4, 2012
75
I installed the tranny cooler onto the line coming out of the rad on the driver side. I just wasn’t sure when hooking up both lines to the b&m cooler if it mattered which line went where? The instructions didn’t say if there was an inlet side and outlet side or hot and cold. I've read some coolers have a directional flow so i just want to make sure its hooked up right.

I finally fixed the leak, I ended up getting a new fitting from the dealership, you can just buy the fitting, part # 52481097. The fitting comes with a new C clip and gasket as well, luckily it's a regular stocked item so they didn’t have to order it in.

thanks for the help
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
98tsiawd said:
I installed the tranny cooler onto the line coming out of the rad on the driver side. I just wasn’t sure when hooking up both lines to the b&m cooler if it mattered which line went where? The instructions didn’t say if there was an inlet side and outlet side or hot and cold. I've read some coolers have a directional flow so i just want to make sure its hooked up right.

I finally fixed the leak, I ended up getting a new fitting from the dealership, you can just buy the fitting, part # 52481097. The fitting comes with a new C clip and gasket as well, luckily it's a regular stocked item so they didn’t have to order it in.

thanks for the help

if it is a finned tube cooler it doesn't matter. if it is a stacked plate cooler then it does. you generally want the cooler oriented so that the inlet/outlet is either on the top or the side. your goal is to have the air flush out upon it initially filling with oil. if on the top, it doesn't matter which you use for inlet/outlet. if on its side, you want the fluid going in the bottom and coming out the top.
 

98tsiawd

Original poster
Member
Apr 4, 2012
75
Mine is a stacked plate design, however I mounted mine with the inlet and outlet on the bottom, can I assume it won't matter as its not on it's side?
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
It means the air won't escape. The oil will fill the bottom and the majority of the cooler will be empty.

If you can, unmount it, turn it so the outlet is on the top, run it for a few minutes then re mount it as you wish
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
From B&M's site:



Mount the B&M SuperCooler with the fittings on
top or on the sides. It is not recommended to
mount the cooler with the fittings pointing down as
this may create an air pocket in the cooler resulting
in reduced cooling efficiency. When mounting the
cooler with the fittings on the right or left side, the
lower fitting must be the inlet with the top fitting
routing the fluid back to the transmission.


This is for the "Super Cooler" line with stacked plates.
 

98tsiawd

Original poster
Member
Apr 4, 2012
75
The instruction that came with the kit didn’t mention anything about which way to mount it, I wish they would of. I mounted it in the down ward direction due to being easier to run the lines as I noticed when searching all the pictures I came across of other peoples installs there's were mounted down as well.

b&m states it MAY create a air pocket, is there a way to determine if there is one, if I leave it this way? I have a laser temp. reader and I've taken the temp readings off the cooler after a drive, there is a little variance in temp from side to side but not up and down on the cooler, would it be safe to assume my cooler wouldn’t have an air pocket? Correct me if I’m wrong but if there was an air pocket the bottom half would be a different temp then the top half?

thanks for the help
 

C-ya

Member
Aug 24, 2012
1,098
Do like jimmyjam said up above my post - unmount it and flip it over but leave the lines hooked up and start the truck and let it run for a few minutes then remount. That should push any air out.

I still think you'll want to figure a way to get it sideways at least if not right side up. I think being upside down may affect the Low Pressure Drop (aka cold fluid bypass) design.
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
98tsiawd said:
I noticed when searching all the pictures I came across of other peoples installs there's were mounted down as well.
if everyone jumped off a bridge... :smile: sorry, had to

98tsiawd said:
b&m states it MAY create a air pocket, is there a way to determine if there is one, if I leave it this way? I have a laser temp. reader and I've taken the temp readings off the cooler after a drive, there is a little variance in temp from side to side but not up and down on the cooler, would it be safe to assume my cooler wouldn’t have an air pocket? Correct me if I’m wrong but if there was an air pocket the bottom half would be a different temp then the top half?
a temp difference would depend on how quickly the oil reached temp. if it warms slowly enough you probably won't see a difference

if you take a minute to look at a stacked plate cooler and how it is designed, you'd realize there is no way for the air to escape if there is no bleed valve or outlet on the top of it. just flip the thing long enough to purge the air and you'll be fine.
 

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