Argh! P0410

[Mark20]

Heading home from a friend's house and after a bit a little headlight dim and I think its time for a SAIS pump check. Then I notice something yellow shining at me. Check engine. Scan Gauge says its P0410. A quick search here and I'll check the solenoid tomorrow.

 

[IllogicTC]

Heading home from a friend's house and after a bit a little headlight dim and I think its time for a SAIS pump check. Then I notice something yellow shining at me. Check engine. Scan Gauge says its P0410. A quick search here and I'll check the solenoid tomorrow.

Welcome to my world I'm considering doing the SAIS delete personally since we have no emissions checks over here.

 

[Mark20]

We do in my part of PA (southeast). Since they only check the codes if I do the delete I'd need to get the computer tweaked.

Pulled the fuses today and they're fine. I may check the relay tonight. After that got to dig deeper.

 

[IllogicTC]

We do in my part of PA (southeast). Since they only check the codes if I do the delete I'd need to get the computer tweaked.

Pulled the fuses today and they're fine. I may check the relay tonight. After that got to dig deeper.

Yeah I do recall seeing two separate stickers on PA windshields. I myself need to go through all the troubleshooting steps, but I'm in no hurry about it.

And for extreme emission issues:

View attachment 33279

 

[The_Roadie]

Could also be sluggish O2 sensor. Look at the real time data if you have a way to do so. If you don't, save up. A good scan tool is important.

 

[willbill92]

Could also be sluggish O2 sensor. Look at the real time data if you have a way to do so. If you don't, save up. A good scan tool is important.

Would those bluetooth scan tools work for realtime data?

 

[The_Roadie]

Depending on the software. Torque on Android does.

 

[Mark20]

Could also be sluggish O2 sensor. Look at the real time data if you have a way to do so. If you don't, save up. A good scan tool is important.

What would the sluggish data look like? Something along these lines crossed my mind since the temperatures were very comfortable all day. I can easily see open/closed loop on the Scan Gauge. It can be programmed to pretty much read anything but its update rate is about once per second.

Does anyone have the OBD command and math for reading the O2 sensor?

I need to crawl under the Voy. There is probably a ton of salt under there and I wouldn't be surprised if its the connector to the pump itself.

 

[willbill92]

Depending on the software. Torque on Android does.

I know what I am doing tomorrow now. I am going to order me one of the bluetooth scan tools and troubleshoot my Voy because I got the same error code at Autozone today. (Dont feel like throwing money at parts that may not even need to be replaced)

 

[Mark20]

I know what I am doing tomorrow now. I am going to order me one of the bluetooth scan tools and troubleshoot my Voy because I got the same error code at Autozone today. (Dont feel like throwing money at parts that may not even need to be replaced)

I am probably going to do the same they're not that expensive.

Ran an errand this morning and after firing up the engine I carefully listened under the driver's area and heard a WHIRLING that stopped after about 30 seconds. I assume this was the pump running and if so would mean that the relay and motor are good. Doesn't eliminate the compressor, tubing, solenoid or O2 sensor.

 

[NJTB]

Yeah I do recall seeing two separate stickers on PA windshields. I myself need to go through all the troubleshooting steps, but I'm in no hurry about it.

And for extreme emission issues:

View attachment 20775

Ok, I guess no one else is interested in WTF this picture is. I see a catalytic converter but have NO idea why there are several steel cables running through it and around it.

 

[Galex]

Could also be sluggish O2 sensor. Look at the real time data if you have a way to do so. If you don't, save up. A good scan tool is important.

I have had the 410 code for a while, but until reading the thread on trailvoy I did not have a clue where to start solving the puzzle. I found a bad check valve and replaced it. I now have the loud exhaust sound from the valve upon cold start with the hose disconnected, which indicates the valve now operates normally. I found no water in the pump hoses and bench checked the pump-OK. All of the solenoids and relays check ok and when the brown wire from the relay near the pump is grounded, the pump runs. I still have the code and the pump does not run on cold start. I have even removed the connector from the PCM and grounded pin 44 and the pump runs. To me that indicates the PCM is not commanding the pump to run. Has anyone got any other ideas?

 

[The_Roadie]

Ok, I guess no one else is interested in WTF this picture is.

I was interested, but wasn't going to give Andrew the satisfaction of being the first one to ask.

I figure it's an excessive number of GROUND wires (running that close to the cat they can't possibly be insulated) for some asshat who has 100 KW of sound system in the back and wants to break windows. No reason for those to be structural cables, but I have to admit I can't figure the looped one on the right.

Andrew?

... removed the connector from the PCM and grounded pin 44 and the pump runs. To me that indicates the PCM is not commanding the pump to run. Has anyone got any other ideas?

Welcome! Sounds like a bad PCM to me. You could always jump the working relay drive wire to the non-working one as a workaround (C1-44 to C3-14).

 

[AtlWrk]

Ok, I guess no one else is interested in WTF this picture is. I see a catalytic converter but have NO idea why there are several steel cables running through it and around it.

Crazy-azz catalytic anti-theft system?

EDIT: I win:
Protect the Catalytic Converter on your Bus

 

[C-ya]

I was interested, but wasn't going to give Andrew the satisfaction of being the first one to ask.

I figure it's an excessive number of GROUND wires (running that close to the cat they can't possibly be insulated) for some asshat who has 100 KW of sound system in the back and wants to break windows. No reason for those to be structural cables, but I have to admit I can't figure the looped one on the right.

Andrew?

And the one around the frame.

Yep, color me confused as well.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

Really surprised no one had seen that pic or one like it before. There is a ton floating around with weird ways of saving your cat from theft. Some may be a bit of overkill....

 

[Galex]

I was interested, but wasn't going to give Andrew the satisfaction of being the first one to ask.

I figure it's an excessive number of GROUND wires (running that close to the cat they can't possibly be insulated) for some asshat who has 100 KW of sound system in the back and wants to break windows. No reason for those to be structural cables, but I have to admit I can't figure the looped one on the right.

Andrew?

Welcome! Sounds like a bad PCM to me. You could always jump the working relay drive wire to the non-working one as a workaround (C1-44 to C3-14).

Will a PCM from a 2004 TB work in my '05? Any special cautions in swapping out a PCM?

 

[NJTB]

Crazy-azz catalytic anti-theft system?

EDIT: I win:
Protect the Catalytic Converter on your Bus

Never would have thought of that. Maybe I live too sheltered a life.
My curiosity is satisfied, sorry to hi jack the thread.

 

[djthumper]

Will a PCM from a 2004 TB work in my '05? Any special cautions in swapping out a PCM?

Yes it will work. You to have the VIN programmed in, a CASE relearn and the security relearn.

 

[IllogicTC]

Really surprised no one had seen that pic or one like it before. There is a ton floating around with weird ways of saving your cat from theft. Some may be a bit of overkill....

Crazy-azz catalytic anti-theft system?

EDIT: I win:
Protect the Catalytic Converter on your Bus

It's not just the anti-theft system that's crazy. Look at the ends of the cables - secured with zip ties.

 

[Mark20]

A descent day to open the hood and pull the SAIS hoses. Intake sucking and outflow blowing hard (now get your minds out of the gutter ). No exhaust sounds. So it looks like its the solenoid. Pulling that next to see if its cleanable for the time being and will order a replacement.

Just looked at the Rockauto parts. Does anyone know if the ACDelco OEM one comes with the gasket?

Edit:

Pulled the solenoid check valve and bench tested it. I can barely blow air through it half the time and the other half not at all when "activated". Guess I found the culprit.

 

[Mark20]

Tried cleaning the old one and was only partially successful. Ordered a new one and it only took a half hour to put in. Cleaned the throttle body since I was. In the neighborhood.

 

[nagyiii]

took my check valve apart 2 weeks ago, let it soak in pb blaster for a few hours. reassembled it and reinstalled until i bought a new one. 2 weeks later now, havent had time to replace the check valve, but havent receive a new check engine light either. maybe it worked and i just keep the check valve on hand. i did have to grind the screws off of the check valve and tap the holoes out. i simply used stainless bolts and nuts to reassemble instead of screws...

 

[IllogicTC]

took my check valve apart 2 weeks ago, let it soak in pb blaster for a few hours. reassembled it and reinstalled until i bought a new one. 2 weeks later now, havent had time to replace the check valve, but havent receive a new check engine light either. maybe it worked and i just keep the check valve on hand. i did have to grind the screws off of the check valve and tap the holoes out. i simply used stainless bolts and nuts to reassemble instead of screws...

Sounds like you should be good to go at least for now. I'd make the old part last as long as possible, but that's just because in some ways I can be a miser.