Any tips on removing these lines?

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
This is the junction of the rear brake hose, both bolts can be turned, but the line wont break free.



I've soaked it and worked it back and forth very slightly in hopes it would start to break free...I don't want to break the line.

Screenshot_20190327-153940_Gallery.jpg


Maybe a small amount of heat to wick the oil inside?

Curious if anyone has been in this similiar situation with positive results....:cool:
 
Dec 5, 2011
574
Central Pennsylvania
Try one of the freezing sprays. Not a fan of using heat on brake parts... but I don't really have a good rationale why.
You said the fittings do move - do the lines move with them or can you turn the fittings without twisting the lines?
If not, you might be "effed". I don't recall ever being able to recover a line rusted to the fitting - just my experience. Hopefully someone else has and can give advice.
 
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xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
Not sure if what happened to me is going to happen for you but after fighting with the passenger side rear the line just bent out of shape. Before I fudged anything up and it start leaking I choose to have my brothers mechanic take over and change that part of the line out and also install the last stainless braided hose I had left to put in. 20190316_141347.jpg
Mechanic said there is a coating on the factor lines that some times find it's way under the fitting and wont allow it to come out with out first bending or breaking the line. I'm glad I left it alone and had him repair and replace what was needed. Good luck to you brother.
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
The nut turns freely, but the steel line is turning with it. I'm also not a fan of heating the brake parts up but I'm going to remove these old hoses so no worries there.

I hit it with some propane briefly and it wicked the PB blaster inside...I guess I can let it soak overnight then try the freezing trick.

I'm fine with changing the crossover line, but don't want to tear up the line going to the ABS pump.
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
Funny you mentioned that....I was just accepting the fact I cannot use the braided hoses. :hissyfit:

The LH side has a crossover line, the TBSS does not.

Mine is an 02.
 
Dec 5, 2011
574
Central Pennsylvania
I've cut lines like this and "spliced" them with compression fittings successfully.
If the PB Blaster doesn't do the trick, it might be time to cut your losses. You could always cut the line, flair & splice, and keep moving.
 
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xavierny25

Member
Mar 16, 2014
6,323
Staten Island, N.Y
Funny you mentioned that....I was just accepting the fact I cannot use the braided hoses. :hissyfit:

The LH side has a crossover line, the TBSS does not.

Mine is an 02.

On both sides of the rear??? That sucks! There's got to be away around getting the stainless braided lines to work. 06-09 had individual lines that run from the abs to each side of the rear brakes.

Off topic: But how did you get a tbss rear diff to work back there since it has 2 wheel speed sensors and if I'm correct your 02 only has 1?
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
The 02 uses the ABS sensor from the tail shaft of the trans. You only need to cut the wires from the SS axle as they are not needed. Explains the seperate brake lines also.

The left side has the crossover line so two steel lines in one block, RH side has one line.
 
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Reprise

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Jul 22, 2015
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Would it be possible to disconnect the line from the other side (not the one going to the ABS module - the other one) If that line is too long / makes too many bends to then move freely when you turn the nut - then you may be stuck cutting / flaring, as @TequilaWarrior suggested.

Good luck -- let us know how it comes out. 🤞
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
I believe the line going from left to right may be too long to turn the entire assembly....I see what you're getting at though.

I'm going to let it soak overnight, spray it again, then this weekend see if it will budge. If I can just break it free I can slowly work at it and get it out.

I have a buddy who may be able to cut some threads in the braided TBSS junction block for the crossover steel line...I'll let him look at it and post my findings.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
If you do use heat, be VERY conservative. If you heat the metal too much, the rubber line will blow out of the fitting like a gunshot. I've had instances where I had to heat it to get the metal line fitting to just turn and it would explode. I was replacing it anyway.
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,656
If you do use heat, be VERY conservative. If you heat the metal too much, the rubber line will blow out of the fitting like a gunshot. I've had instances where I had to heat it to get the metal line fitting to just turn and it would explode. I was replacing it anyway.

Thanks for the heads up. I remember reading about that quite some time ago, but didn't think about it.

I was only heating enough to wick some penetrating oil, not too much heat. I will crack the bleeder screw in the future to be safe.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,262
Ottawa, ON
I don't think it has anything to do with the fluid but the hose crimp. I think there's air trapped inside the crimp and expands when heated.
 

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