NEED HELP Aluminum in oil after Lifter change.

JohnizzaUSMC

Newbie
Original poster
Apr 19, 2022
2
Catlett, Virginia
New member, 1st post. Little vehicle history for help with helping me. 2011 1500 4x4 Suburban 1500. Has typical oil leak that I have hopefully corrected when it's running next. #6 DOD lifter failed closed. Followed UTube video and used special tool to unstuck the Lifter. Them did a mechanical (Vlom seal break & oil supply metal sleeve plug) and program delete. This repair lasted for about a year before the Suburban had another cylinder 6 failure code. Suspected that the lifters may have been damaged more than originally suspected. Removed Head only on this bank. Replaced both DOD lifters and both normal lifters. Replaced #6 Rockers and Pushrods. Reused all other parts for other cylinders. They looked fine with nothing jumping out while being inspected. Lubed and torqued everything according to manual. Cleaned all cylinder heads. Cleaned and polished Head to include intake and exhaust ports as far as dremel tools could reach. Released and blew everything out several times. Valve covers were modified to allow for additional oil draining. ( This is what I hope will help with oil leak/loss)
Now here's my question. Upon starting for the 1st time, the engine turned right over. There was a loud audible tick from around the #6 cylinder. Ran for 30 seconds or so. When turned off there was a loud metalic grinding noise and engine rotation stopped very abruptly. I added an oil flush additive and ran for a little over 5 minutes. The ticking subsided (not sure of whether due to oil circulation or temperature increase, truck hasn't ran in over a month) but the grinding noise (split second) and abrupt engine rotation were still present. When I drained the oil I noticed aluminum shavings during the hole drain process. I haven't cut the filter open yet, nor have I added the new high milage full synthetic oil back in. I have read where aluminum dust can be expected after a rebuild (this wasn't a full rebuild) and that it should be ok after the oil and filter change? I haven't completed that process yet because of the grinding abrupt stop issue and not wanting to make anything worse. All of this work was done in my tight @$$ garage wearing a head lamp using a manual and Utube. Please help me with coming up with next steps or suggestions on what the issue may be coming from??
P.S. I was told it was ok to only change out the lifters on one side and to re-use old components if they checked out ok. The valve cover for the other Head was also modified for better oil draining. When Intake Manifold was removed it was full of oil. More than I would have suspected and more than the 1st time I removed it. Please help, I can't afford a new engine or the time it would take. Thank you in advance!!!
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Donor
Oct 22, 2015
5,917
Tampa Bay Area
Welcome to GMT Nation...

(1) Obtain an inexpensive 7-9 mm Bore-Endoscope and after pulling One Plug at a Time... Scope the Cylinder Innards looking for obvious Piston Destruction or Damage. @Mooseman 's recent listing for a Bore-Scope that can actually SEE the condition of the Valves, Valve Seats, Pistons and Combustion Chambers prompted my own recent purchase of this Device. THIS is the One You Want!


71H-PtU-EzL._SL1500_.jpg71ckysFtE6L._SL1500_.jpg71-zvqD5T3L._SL1500_.jpg

(2) Working this problem realistically means Sourcing a Drop-In Motor & Transmission ASAP. Check out your local Salvage places for 'Freshly Wrecked Vehicles" involving Trucks that were RUNNING... Right up to the time of their Disabling Accidents. As long as any Head-On Collisions are not involved that might have destroyed the Engine Block (Broken Motor Mounts, Cracked Bell Housing etc.) these Engines make the best candidates for performing an Engine Swap. A Clever balance between Price vs. Mileage is the *REAL Trick* to finding the Best Candidate

(3) You obviously possess the necessary "Mechanic's Chops" good enough to be able to perform this Motor R&R and there is plenty of help available in the Videos produced by Eric "O" from South Main Auto to guide you through the process that are specific to the Silverado Body & Motors Layouts:


(4) Drill Down to the Actual Problem ...Soonest. If there is ANY Catastrophic Damage inside that Engine, forget about trying to perform any Dramatic Rescue Repairs. ANY Major Engine FUBAR turns it into a Boat Anchor. If it comes down to this, Pull the Motor and Salvage the Heads and Other Useful Parts that you've already perfected for an installation on any otherwise Good Running, Replacement Straight Swap Motor... While it is Still Sitting ON the Engine Stand.

(5) If this Thread devolves into an Engine R&R, take Clear, Well Staged Images of EVERYTHING and Post them back as attachments right here. The Folks Reading about your dilemma all thrive on Viewing *PICS* and will offer Help that much Quicker when they can SEE what You can SEE.
 

TollKeeper

Platinum Donor
Dec 3, 2011
6,711
Brighton, CO
Did you replace the lifter tray?
 

Mooseman

Master Blaster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
22,325
Ottawa, ON
All the parts you replaced were steel so the aluminum is not coming from those. Are you sure it's aluminum? The aluminum I can think of that could grind up is possibly the timing chain tensioner. They are known to fail. Guys usually replace those with the old block style for reliability. Other possible aluminum grinding are bearings, either rod, main or cam. That would definitely spell death to the engine for sure.
 
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JohnizzaUSMC

Newbie
Original poster
Apr 19, 2022
2
Catlett, Virginia
Did you replace the lifter tray?
They seemed to be in good shape. So I cleaned them very good and re-used them.
All the parts you replaced were steel so the aluminum is not coming from those. Are you sure it's aluminum? The aluminum I can think of that could grind up is possibly the timing chain tensioner. They are known to fail. Guys usually replace those with the old block style for reliability. Other possible aluminum grinding are bearings, either rod, main or cam. That would definitely spell death to the engine for sure.
I say aluminum but didn't put a magnet to it. It reminded me of the aluminum dust I made while polishing the Head.
 

Mooseman

Master Blaster
Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
22,325
Ottawa, ON
Steel glitter can look like aluminum. Do check with a magnet.
 
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