Alarm/Remote start questions?

[blazinlow89]

My alarm system came in a few days ago and I have been doing countless hours of research. I do have a few questions and concerns.
I ordered an Omega Excalibur 1830 EDPB, along with a DB-GMDLBP doorlock/passlock interface, as well as some extra fun stuff. I do have copies from Omega for the factory wiring colors and general locations.

My first question is the main harness has 6 pins
Constant 12v (+) Input RED/WHITE
Ignition #2 (+) Output - PINK/WHITE
Constant 12v (+) Input - RED
Start (+) Output - VIOLET
Ignition #1 (+) Input/Output - PINK
Accessory (+) Output - ORANGE

Constant 12 volts RED (2) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts PINK IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

From what i figured igntion 1/2 would go to the pink igniton wire on the truck, both constants would go to either red wire on the truck and the start wire would go to the yellow wire on the truck. There is also a relay with 3 wires and a jumper, and a resistor going from one side to the other, I can post pics if it would help. I read somewhere i need to cut the yellow starter wire and connect one wire to the ignition side and another one to the starter side, then i read something about relays, and resistors etc. This is my main point of confusion.

now for questions 2 there is an 18 pin harness which does a majority of the vehicle connections
18 PIN HARNESS
Door Trigger (-) Input - GREEN
Tach Input - VIOLET/WHITE
Door Trigger (+) Input - VIOLET
Light Relay N/O (+/-) Input - BLACK/RED
Trunk Release/CH2 (-) Output - RED/WHITE
Light Relay COM Output - GREEN/VIOLET
Starter Interrupt (-) Output - ORANGE
Flashing Light (-) Output - WHITE/BLACK
System Ground (-) Input - BLACK
Brake (+) Input - BROWN/RED
Neutral Safety (-) Input - BLACK/WHITE
Light Relay N/C (+/-) Input - WHITE/RED
Hood Trigger (-) Input - GRAY
Flashing Light (+) Output - WHITE
Siren (+) Output - BROWN
Horn Relay N/C (+/-) Input - BROWN/BLACK
Horn Relay COM Output - BLUE/BLACK
Horn Relay N/O (+/-) Input - VIOLET/BLACK

I know the doorlock/passlock interface is supposed to connect to some of the vehicle wires, but do i connect the alarm specific connections to those points on the passlock or do i need to connect to the vehicle wiring for the locks? There are also 2 satellite relay ports as well as a door lock port.

In my kit I also ordered 2 window control modules each one will 4 windows up or down or 2 windows up and down. I want to wire one to raise the windows when I arm the system, and the other one to drop them on the trunk release or channel 1. The instructions on this are basic and seem easy power/ground, then eash window gets 2 connections one to the window switch the other to the window motor, then it says to cut, so im guessing to cut the wire in the between switch and the motor and hook up the respected wires. It also has a small harness for input it has positive activation input, negative activation input and ignition in.

I can post screen shots of the install guides and pictures of anything if requested.

Now if anyone has any input on this thank you, if you managed to read down this far without thinking this guy is an idiot thank you again.

 

[MAY03LT]

My alarm system came in a few days ago and I have been doing countless hours of research. I do have a few questions and concerns.
I ordered an Omega Excalibur 1830 EDPB, along with a DB-GMDLBP doorlock/passlock interface, as well as some extra fun stuff. I do have copies from Omega for the factory wiring colors and general locations.

My first question is the main harness has 6 pins
Constant 12v (+) Input RED/WHITE
Ignition #2 (+) Output - PINK/WHITE
Constant 12v (+) Input - RED
Start (+) Output - VIOLET
Ignition #1 (+) Input/Output - PINK
Accessory (+) Output - ORANGE

Constant 12 volts RED (2) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Ignition 12 volts PINK IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
Starter YELLOW IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

From what i figured igntion 1/2 would go to the pink igniton wire on the truck, both constants would go to either red wire on the truck and the start wire would go to the yellow wire on the truck. There is also a relay with 3 wires and a jumper, and a resistor going from one side to the other, I can post pics if it would help. I read somewhere i need to cut the yellow starter wire and connect one wire to the ignition side and another one to the starter side, then i read something about relays, and resistors etc. This is my main point of confusion.

Ignition 1 goes to pink, Ignition 2 goes to white. The 6 pin doesn't include a start + input, so I'm thinking the relay is for the starter kill. We'll need a description from the manual to clarify its purpose.

I know the doorlock/passlock interface is supposed to connect to some of the vehicle wires, but do i connect the alarm specific connections to those points on the passlock or do i need to connect to the vehicle wiring for the locks? There are also 2 satellite relay ports as well as a door lock port.

The GMDLBP will get the lock/unlock requests from the door lock port, and will use the OBD2 data wire to lock/unlock the doors. Passlock2 is also handled the same way, over the data wire courtesy of the GMDLBP.

In my kit I also ordered 2 window control modules each one will 4 windows up or down or 2 windows up and down. I want to wire one to raise the windows when I arm the system, and the other one to drop them on the trunk release or channel 1. The instructions on this are basic and seem easy power/ground, then eash window gets 2 connections one to the window switch the other to the window motor, then it says to cut, so im guessing to cut the wire in the between switch and the motor and hook up the respected wires. It also has a small harness for input it has positive activation input, negative activation input and ignition in.

I can post screen shots of the install guides and pictures of anything if requested.

I have not integrated power windows into one of these. But if you post up the info, I will give it a look over. The more info, the merrier.

Now if anyone has any input on this thank you

For starters, I highly suggest reading Awer25s 5901 thread on trailvoy. While it doesn't use your r/s unit, it has a lot of useful info.

 

[djthumper]

Is there any place to download the install guides from? It might make it easier to visualize.

 

[blazinlow89]

Thank you, I am going to test all of the wires before i do final hookup. I have been reading that thread and its been a huge help. Im just trying to get all of my info prepared so I can try and do this in a weekend. I have found nothing on the relay but I will post a pic tomorrow of what it looks like.

I ordered a bunch of extra stuff for this install and to get my toolbox back up on supply
100 14-16g ring connectors
100 14-16g t-taps and male connectors
100 10-12g t-taps and male connectors
40' 14g red and 40' 14 g black wire
100 zip ties
5 30 amp bosch style relays with harnesses

total was $75 with shipping

Im waiting on a new DMM my old one succumbed to my frustration (it was free and junk)

Im going to pick up some expandable cable sleeve to clean everything up as well.

Sent you a PM

 

[djthumper]

And that is why May is the man when it comes to the wiring!

 

[blazinlow89]

So my component list is as follows

Omega Excalibur AL-1830-EDPB
DB-GMDLBP
AU-93-4 x 2 window modules
AU-EXP for additional sensors
GS-1 glass break sensor
AU-46TD digital tilt
dual zone shock
513T x 2
backup battery
Psyren

I ordered a large quantity of items for the install
100 14/16 awg t-taps w/male connectors
100 10/12 awg t-taps w/ male connectors
100 10/12 awg ring terminals
40' of 14 awg red primary cable
40' of 14 awg black primary cable
100 8" 50lbs zip ties
5 30 amp bosch style relays with harnesses
a new DMM
I also picked up about 10' of 1" expandable wire sleeve and 15' of 1/4" expandable wire sleeve.

I know I have heard things against t-taps, but I have never had an issues with using them, I was going to pick up some diodes but I wasnt sure which amperage and size to get, so if I need them I can order later.

May03lt and djthumper thank you very much for your help so far.

 

[MAY03LT]

I know I have heard things against t-taps, but I have never had an issues with using them, I was going to pick up some diodes but I wasnt sure which amperage and size to get, so if I need them I can order later

What will you be using the diodes for? If they will be used for the rear door triggers 1n4001s will work.

If we've chatted about t-taps on trailvoy then you know how I feel about them. Some called it "pushing my ideas on people" but I called it giving them fair warning. Turns out, they were right. I can warn, but the choice is ultimately theirs to make. That being said, the choice is ultimately yours to make.

May03lt and djthumper thank you very much for your help so far.

No prob man. I should have some time this weekend to review the install guides.

 

[blazinlow89]

What will you be using the diodes for? If they will be used for the rear door triggers 1n4001s will work.

If we've chatted about t-taps on trailvoy then you know how I feel about them. Some called it "pushing my ideas on people" but I called it giving them fair warning. Turns out, they were right. I can warn, but the choice is ultimately theirs to make. That being said, the choice is ultimately yours to make.



No prob man. I should have some time this weekend to review the install guides.

Would the door triggers control the lock/unlock portion, or would that be just for activating the alarm in the case of break in on one of the rear doors. If I can still lock and unlock them with the alarm system I will be happy. If i need the diodes to do this I will get them.

I do not recall reading any of your t-tap comments on TV, I would like to hear them if you do not mind. I do listen to suggestions, I wont guarantee I will follow them, but I do listen. I have never personally had any issues with them, but I have heard horror stories.

Take your time dude, I am planning the install for next weekend pending weather, to much going on the weekend lol. I have pretty much everything, just waiting on wiring stuff.

 

[MAY03LT]

Would the door triggers control the lock/unlock portion, or would that be just for activating the alarm in the case of break in on one of the rear doors. If I can still lock and unlock them with the alarm system I will be happy. If i need the diodes to do this I will get them.

It would just be to monitor the rear door ajar circuits and trip the aftermarket alarm if one is opened while the system is armed. Those circuits go from each rear door switch to the BCM, the GMDLBP does not monitor them over the data wire. They will still be monitored by the OEM alarm though. The lock/unlock functions of the rear doors will work either way.

Generally speaking, the mostly stock TB/EV's that come to me for a remote start install do not care if the rear doors are monitored. The ones with audio systems and/or other goodies want that additional layer of security.

I do not recall reading any of your t-tap comments on TV, I would like to hear them if you do not mind. I do listen to suggestions, I wont guarantee I will follow them, but I do listen. I have never personally had any issues with them, but I have heard horror stories.

Our stories probably match. Asides from the tap closing but not piercing the wire at all, or the tap severing the wire completely, the thing that I consider the worst is when the tap cuts though enough copper that there are only one or two strands actually still connected, and many months/miles down the road, those strands break and the connection fails. Because of the amount of time that has passed, the tap isn't suspected, and it can lead to some hefty diagnostic time which really sucks when it's in the hands of a repair shop who isn't up to speed with aftermarket add ons.

When I wire up something, I want to know that the connection will last the life of the vehicle. I want to know that it will withstand the bumps/jolts/vibrations that the vehicle will go through on a daily basis. For this reason, I solder everything.

Take your time dude, I am planning the install for next weekend pending weather, to much going on the weekend lol. I have pretty much everything, just waiting on wiring stuff.

Cool deal

 

[blazinlow89]

Not sure if my truck even has a factory alarm, lol. No keyless at least. If it just goes to the BCM I can run the wires later, I think I would be fine even with the glass break sensor, along with the dual zone/pressure sensor. I dont plan on a doing a large system maybe a single 12".

I have had that issue, only reason was I was using the wrong sizes, trying to put a 10/12awg on a 16awg wire doesnt work out to well. My main reason for using the T-taps is just trying to avoid electrical tape, stuff is nasty after a long time. I have a ton of shrink tubing but that would require either cutting the wire or removing it at a pin or other type of connection to slide it over. I have no issue with soldering the wire, directly to the metal pieces inside the t-tap and putting the plastic casing back on.

 

[MAY03LT]

Not sure if my truck even has a factory alarm, lol. No keyless at least.

If you open the drivers door, and push the lock button, does the security light flash?

My main reason for using the T-taps is just trying to avoid electrical tape, stuff is nasty after a long time

The method I use for taping soldered connections is to wrap it in super 33, and then add a ziptie for a mechanical "bite" which is a backup if for some reason the adhesive fails.

I have no issue with soldering the wire, directly to the metal pieces inside the t-tap and putting the plastic casing back on.

Can't say that I've heard about that method, but it sounds like it would work.

 

[blazinlow89]

If you open the drivers door, and push the lock button, does the security light flash?

No, the chime would beep when i had the harness with the chime for the radio/factory radio, but no lights.

On second thought I have never really paid attention to it, but im sure I have never seen a security light on the gauge cluster.

The method I use for taping soldered connections is to wrap it in super 33, and then add a ziptie for a mechanical "bite" which is a backup if for some reason the adhesive fails.

Never the problem of adhesive failing, just nasty if I ever go back to work on it. I know im never removing it though lol, once its in it isnt coming out.

We do have this wax string that project's guys and AVI use at work, to secure stretch tape around wire bundles.

Can't say that I've heard about that method, but it sounds like it would work.

One of the squirrely ideas that pop into my head from time to time. Sometimes its why have I never done this before moment, other times its a WTF did i get my self into moment. Either way its a learning experience.

 

[MAY03LT]

No, the chime would beep when i had the harness with the chime for the radio/factory radio, but no lights.

On second thought I have never really paid attention to it, but im sure I have never seen a security light on the gauge cluster.

There were so few that didn't have keyless that keyless-less questions rarely came up. In fact, it wasn't until 2011 that we had verification that the GMDLBP would handle keyless in a keyless-less equipped TB/EV.

Never the problem of adhesive failing, just nasty if I ever go back to work on it.

I recently upgraded someones older remote start to a more modern model, and the previous installer mummified the harness with tape. Yeah, that sucks.

 

[djthumper]

Out here the heat is real bad on the adhesive. With a bunch of stuff that I have done for communication setups, I have resorted to using liquid tape. It just sucks that I sometimes put a second coat on if I notice it is kind of thin in an area and have to wait for it to dry.

 

[MAY03LT]

I went through the install guide, and everything looks ok except what's in red.

6 Pin Main Wire Harness
Red & Red/White Wires - Constant Power (+) Input
C201 D2 red - 12v
C201 B5 red/white - 12v
Pink Wire - Ignition #1 (+) Input/Output
C201 C6 pink - 12v with key "on"
Orange Wire - Accessory (+) Output
C201 D1 orange - 12v in "acc" and "run"
Violet Wire - Start (+) Output
C201 C1 yellow (cut wire, this goes away from ignition switch
Pink/White Wire - Ignition #2 (+) Output - Programmable
C201 C5 white - 12v in "run"

18 Pin Secondary Wire Harness
Black Wire - System Ground (-) Input
Ground this to "MAIN GROUND"

Here is the obstacle:
Orange Wire - Starter Interrupt (-) Output & Relay
This provides 500mA negative ground while the alarm is armed for starter kill and/or during
remote start for anti-grind operation. The operation is selectable with user feature #4.
CONNECTION: This wire is connected to the orange input wire on the included start interrupt
relay socket. Then, locate the vehicle’s (+) starter wire at the ignition switch and cut it. Connect
the starter interrupt relay’s RED wire to the ignition switch side of the cut starter wire. Connect the
starter interrupt relay’s WHITE wire to the starter side of the cut starter wire
To starter relay orange

If this is true, then the violet start + wire and the interrupts white wire would both go to the starter side of C1. I've never ran into this before. I mean, I guess it makes sense and it should work, maybe I'm reading it too close.


Brown/Red Wire - Brake Pedal (+) Input
To white wire @ flasher (easier to get to then brake switch)
Will test 12v with brake pedal pushed
Black/White Wire - Neutral Safety (-) Input
Ground this wire to MAIN GROUND. Our trucks have the NSS monitored by the pcm
Violet/White Wire - Tach Signal Input
White @ pcm blue plug #49, AC volts will change with rpms
Brown Wire - Siren (+) Output
To siren +
White Wire - Flashing Light (+) Output
White/Black Wire - Flashing Light (-) Output
You only need one of these, both work. Neg is easier to find
Neg is gray/black at headlight switch, goes to ground with park lights on
Gray Wire - Hood Trigger (-) Input
Optional hood pin
Green Wire - Door Trigger (-) Input
From GMDLBP pink/white DT - output
Violet Wire - Door Trigger (+) Input
Not needed
Red/White Wire - Trunk Release / 2nd Channel (-) Output
Not needed
Black/Red Wire - Light Relay N/O (+/-) Input
Green/Violet Wire - Light Relay COM Output
White/Red Wire - Light Relay N/C Input
None of these are needed, domelight is controlled by BCM
Violet/Black Wire - Horn Relay N/O (+/-) Input
Blue/Black Wire - Horn Relay COM Output
C201 D4 black/yellow should be ground when horn pushed
Brown/Black Wire - Horn Relay N/C Input
Ground to MAIN GROUND

6 Pin Secondary Wire Harness
Pink Wire - 3rd Channel (-) Output
White/Blue Wire - Remote Start Activation (-) Input
White Wire - Alarm Arm (-) Input
Brown Wire - Alarm Disarm (-) Input
Lt. Green/Red Wire - OEM Alarm Arm / CH4 (-) Output
Lt. Green/Black Wire - OEM Alarm Disarm / CH5 (-) Output
I don't see any use for these right now.

3 Pin Satellite Relay Port (BLUE)
Green Wire - Accessory (-) Output ACC2 85
Red Wire - Constant (+) Output ACC2 86
Blue Wire - Status (-) Output GMDLBP brown GWR

For ACC2, I use C201 D2 for 30 of the ACC2 relay. 87 will go to C201 B6 Brown

Green Wire - Lock (-) Output
GMDLBP Green lock - input
Blue Wire - Unlock #1 (-) Output
GMDLBP Blue lock - input

GMDLBP
brown - to status out as stated
green - to lock output as stated
blue - to unock output as stated
violet - to purple wire in OBD2 connector
pink/white - to door trigger in as stated
red - 12v constant
black - MAIN GROUND

These connections will get the remote start and bypass working. I'm going to go through the add ons next.

Also, there is a pic of C201 in the 5901 thread on trailvoy. When I get time, I'm going to make a modified version.

 

[blazinlow89]

Ok I am bundling my wires so I can go ahead and do the install sometime this week. Just going to go through and double check locations.

6 Pin main

all connections made at the c201 harness

red- D2 red wire
red/white- B5 red/white wire
pink wire- C6 pink
Orange- D1 orange
Violet would go with the white wire from the relay to the start side (one not connected to the harness)
Pink/white- C5 white

The red wire of the relay harness would go to the other end of the yellow start wire.

Main ground wires
Black from 18 pin
black/white from 18 pin
Brown/black from 18 pin
black from GMDLBP


Orange on the starter interrupt relay goes to orange on the 18 pin harness

Violet/white-tach #49 (white wire, blue plug) @ PCM.

Brown wire + on siren and piezo horn

brown/red to white wire @ flasher? the stalk or the switch?

White/black- gray/black wire @ headlight switch

Gray wire- obvious lol

Not needed
violet
black/red
green/violet
white/red
violet/black
red/white(trunk release/aux 2)- could I use this to control output to the Window control units, so when I push and hold it would activate negative activation input on the AU-93-4 x2

6 pin=not needed

on the 3 pin relay port there is a harness from the GMDLBP that has a harness connecting to the status lead the other 2 holes are empty.

then the 4 pin lock port has 2 leads going to a 3 pin harness that attaches to unlock (-) blue, and lock (-) green.

What would I need the green & red wire for on the 3 pin sat harness (blue) for then.

on the GMDLBP

Pink & violet white = not needed.

Let me know if this sound correct, I think I had a break through in understanding this thing after reading everything

Also, to wire the window modules, what would I use for Arm Output to control the (+) side of that harness, I see the 6 pin harness has arm in, disarm in but no outs. Im thinking that this harness is only used for further integration with the factory system.

THe other question is I have a glass break sensor with 3 wires
alarm trigger
ground
positive

could I splice into one of the other harnesses say for the digital tilt sensor to hook it up. Or would this cause the sensors to not act right.

Thanks again man sorry it took so long for me to get back to you been kind of busy this weekend.

 

[MAY03LT]

brown/red to white wire @ flasher? the stalk or the switch?

The flasher is attached to the trim piece under the column. It's to the left of the column back near the big grommet.

You can kinda see it in the 5th pic in this thread:

LED Flasher Relay - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum

What would I need the green & red wire for on the 3 pin sat harness (blue) for then.

The green will give the ACC2 relay pin 86 a (-) signal during remote start, and the red will give 85 a B+ signal. I use D2 for pin 30 and connect 87 to B6 (Brown). The reason for this is, you can't (well, shouldn't) wire both ACC circuits together to the same r/s ACC output.

Let me know if this sound correct, I think I had a break through in understanding this thing after reading everything

Everything looks good so far.

Also, to wire the window modules, what would I use for Arm Output to control the (+) side of that harness, I see the 6 pin harness has arm in, disarm in but no outs. Im thinking that this harness is only used for further integration with the factory system.

red/white(trunk release/aux 2)- could I use this to control output to the Window control units, so when I push and hold it would activate negative activation input on the AU-93-4 x2

I still have to go through all of the add ons, I'll keep an eye out for these.

THe other question is I have a glass break sensor with 3 wires
alarm trigger
ground
positive

could I splice into one of the other harnesses say for the digital tilt sensor to hook it up. Or would this cause the sensors to not act right.

I run separate power and grounds, but I do splice the triggers together.

Thanks again man sorry it took so long for me to get back to you been kind of busy this weekend.

No prob man like I said I'll go through the rest when I have a chance.

 

[blazinlow89]

The green will give the ACC2 relay pin 86 a (-) signal during remote start, and the red will give 85 a B+ signal. I use D2 for pin 30 and connect 87 to B6 (Brown). The reason for this is, you can't (well, shouldn't) wire both ACC circuits together to the same r/s ACC output.

This is my official stupid moment of the day. ACC2 relay pin as in the starter interrupt relay? Or is this a different relay.

 

[blazinlow89]

I would like to thank MAY03LT for all of the help, without your guidance this would either have taken me a lot longer, or I really would have screwed something up. Thanks man .

Now I do have a few questions, of course.

Would the window control Modules have the ability to work off of the drivers door controls for the entire vehicle? Or does this just send a signal to the BCM. Also is it the same for the other switches as well, IE window button -> BCM -> window motor? Do the switches require me to do the wiring inside the door or could I do it at the BCM, or the wire connectors at the door jam?

Thanks as always.

 

[MMIN]

Would the window control Modules have the ability to work off of the drivers door controls for the entire vehicle? Or does this just send a signal to the BCM. Also is it the same for the other switches as well, IE window button -> BCM -> window motor? Do the switches require me to do the wiring inside the door or could I do it at the BCM, or the wire connectors at the door jam?

Your going to want to run wires to the motors in each door. The motors go to each switch so you can grab it anywhere between the motor and the switch, but unfortunately you do have to run wires into each door. If you could live with window up only I would recommend ditching the modules and switching out your bypass for one that can do window up via data.

Left Front Window (Up/Down) dk. blue - brown / Type A / driver door module in door

Right Front Window (Up/Down) lt. blue - tan / Type A / passenger door module in door

Left Rear Window (Up/Down) dk. blue - brown / Type A / left rear window switch in door

Right Rear Window (Up/Down) dk. blue - brown / Type A / right rear window switch in door


Hope it helps,

 

[blazinlow89]

Your going to want to run wires to the motors in each door. The motors go to each switch so you can grab it anywhere between the motor and the switch, but unfortunately you do have to run wires into each door. If you could live with window up only I would recommend ditching the modules and switching out your bypass for one that can do window up via data.

Left Front Window (Up/Down) dk. blue - brown / Type A / driver door module in door

Right Front Window (Up/Down) lt. blue - tan / Type A / passenger door module in door

Left Rear Window (Up/Down) dk. blue - brown / Type A / left rear window switch in door

Right Rear Window (Up/Down) dk. blue - brown / Type A / right rear window switch in door


Hope it helps,

I know the XK01 does windows up, since that is made for a direct connection to a DEI alarm it would require some hardwiring. I am not to concerned about the extra wiring, right now its just making the determination if the wiring can be done at the BCM, inside the door, etc. Also looking at whether or not it would be easier to run one unit to control the front doors, and the other for the rear.

 

[MMIN]

Also looking at whether or not it would be easier to run one unit to control the front doors, and the other for the rear.

I would recommend one module located centrally on the transmission hump/under radio area to control the front doors, and the other under the rear seat (tap power at the rear fusebox) to grab the rear doors. Will give you easy access to both modules in case you need to change any settings and generally you seperate window modules front / back versus left / right.

 

[blazinlow89]

I would recommend one module located centrally on the transmission hump/under radio area to control the front doors, and the other under the rear seat (tap power at the rear fusebox) to grab the rear doors. Will give you easy access to both modules in case you need to change any settings and generally you seperate window modules front / back versus left / right.

I figured that was the common approach.

Although the more I think about it I would rather have one lower all 4, and the other raise all 4. I think it would be simpler for them to pic up the AUX input. I think im going to do windows up with ch 2, and the windows down ch 3.

Only reason for this is because ch 2 has its own button, the ch 3 i hold the ch 2 and starter button for it to activate.

Also wondering if the the truck would allow pulse, rather for me to hold the button down.

 

[MMIN]

I figured that was the common approach.

Although the more I think about it I would rather have one lower all 4, and the other raise all 4. I think it would be simpler for them to pic up the AUX input. I think im going to do windows up with ch 2, and the windows down ch 3.

Only reason for this is because ch 2 has its own button, the ch 3 i hold the ch 2 and starter button for it to activate.

Also wondering if the the truck would allow pulse, rather for me to hold the button down.

Actually I just realized your using the OMEGA window modules which do 4 windows in 1 direction. For some reason I thought you were using the 530T. In this case one module will be roll up all 4, and one module will roll down all 4. It's going to be best to just piggyback the modules centrally and do it that way. You just have to be careful not to get the wires mixed up between the 2 modules. There is a loop on the module that decides if it looks for a pulse or a constant activation signal. If your using the 2 aux channels you would leave the loop in tact and they should each activate with a pulse. And I would agree on your button choices if you don't want the windows to go up automatically everytime you lock it. You would want windows down on the more complicated button combo so as to not accidentally put them down unknowingly.

 

[blazinlow89]

Yeah using the Omega, I am actually quite happy and satisfied with this alarm system. I have have DEI, Audiovox, and a few other brands in the past. The DEI was nice but expensive for the features.

I was actually looking at a SCYTEK system, with GPS tracking and cell integration. However the reviews did not seem what they should have been for a $300+ system. Then while surfing on Car Audio Stereo - Car Subwoofers - Car Amplifiers and Speakers they had a bundle with the 1830edpb as the unit. I paid I want to say like $199 give or take.

My only issue will be taping into the wiring, just have to figure out with side is witch for the switch. Think I am going to do the wiring in the door and then run that to the body and splice to the module, as the wires on the module are not very long.

Just waiting on a few more bits of info before I take this dive.