AI Mechanics helper?

Sqrly

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Livingston CA
I've been playing around learning how LLM's (AI) work. I signed up for a Googles AI Pro ($20/mo first mo free right now)

I created what's called a Gem. It's a mini agent without all of a full agents abilities to be proactive.

Anyways. I set it up to use the "Deep Research" tool and had it research the charm website for my vehicle.


I watched it do it's research and it cross referenced about 50 or so other websites in the process.

Note: Gemini, ChatGPT, they know about this site and speak highly of it.

Afterwords I set it in thinking mode (There's fast, thinking, and pro) I entered the follow query.

"front left axle removal based on the manual linked "

Here's the reply it gave me.


The removal of the front left (driver's side) axle on a 2004 GMC Envoy involves separating the steering and braking components to gain enough clearance to extract the CV shaft from the front differential.

Required Tools

  • 35 mm socket (for the hub nut)
  • 10 mm, 13 mm, 15 mm, 17 mm, and 18 mm sockets and wrenches
  • Pry bar and hammer
  • Torque wrench
  • Drain pan (for differential fluid)

Removal Procedure

  1. Preliminary Disassembly: While the vehicle is still on the ground, loosen the 35 mm hub nut and the wheel lug nuts. Raise the vehicle, secure it on jack stands, and remove the front left wheel.
  2. Brake and Hub Preparation: Remove the brake caliper by unscrewing the 17 mm bolts while holding the slider with an 18 mm wrench. Wire-tie the caliper to the frame to prevent tension on the brake line. Remove the 18 mm caliper bracket bolts and pull off the rotor.
  3. Accessing the Driver Side: To access the inner axle connection on the driver's side, you must remove the four 15 mm bolts from the under-body splash panel.
  4. Suspension Separation: Remove the 15 mm bolt from the upper control arm where it meets the steering knuckle. Strike the control arm with a hammer to separate it from the ball joint. You must also remove the two 10 mm bolts from the brake line bracket and unclip the wiring harness to allow the steering knuckle to pull back far enough to clear the axle.
  5. Axle Extraction: Ensure the axle is loose from the hub splines. Position a pry bar on the back of the inner CV joint housing where it connects to the differential. Strike the pry bar with a hammer to pop the axle out of its internal retaining circlip. Position a drain pan underneath as some fluid will leak from the differential. Maneuver the axle out of the hub and differential.

Installation Torque Specifications

  • Axle (Hub) Nut: 103 ft-lbs (140 Nm) — it is recommended to use a new nut.
  • Wheel Lug Nuts: 100 - 103 ft-lbs.
  • Upper Control Arm Bolt: 55 - 60 ft-lbs.
  • Brake Caliper Bracket Bolts: 77 ft-lbs.

I replied: "Thank you" and got the following.

You're welcome! I'm glad I could help you with the details for your 2004 GMC Envoy.

If you decide to move forward with the repair, just a friendly reminder to use an axle seal protector (factory tool J-44394 or equivalent) to ensure the splines don't nick the differential seal during removal or installation.

I'm here if you need any other torque specifications, wiring pinouts, or troubleshooting steps for your vehicle. Happy wrenching!
 
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I looked up that tool number. Specs read "Applications: 2011 and later drive axles on most GM vehicles".
Key word there is "most".
 
I've been playing around learning how LLM's (AI) work. I signed up for a Googles AI Pro ($20/mo first mo free right now)

I created what's called a Gem. It's a mini agent without all of a full agents abilities to be proactive.

Anyways. I set it up to use the "Deep Research" tool and had it research the charm website for my vehicle.


I watched it do it's research and it cross referenced about 50 or so other websites in the process.

Note: Gemini, ChatGPT, they know about this site and speak highly of it.

Afterwords I set it in thinking mode (There's fast, thinking, and pro) I entered the follow query.

"front left axle removal based on the manual linked "

Here's the reply it gave me.




I replied: "Thank you" and got the following.
Could you have asked it to do All Data search. I already have charm.li to look thru but prefer All data. I wish I could justify paying their yearly fees for All Data. They used to be something about $75 to $100 a year and then went up to $250, IIRC. I could be wrong, if anyone knows for sure, please let me know. That price was just for my 1 vehicle.

At this time, the price is better but still not worth it to me as long as "charm" is available.

The PRO version, for 95% of vehicles on the road, is $209 a month. I am going to call them on Monday to see if the price is negotiable with a military discount and/or former customer.

But, if the AI stuff can access All Data or even charm.li for newer than 2014, I may go with that.
 
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Could you have asked it to do All Data search. I already have charm.li to look thru but prefer All data. I wish I could justify paying their yearly fees for All Data. They used to be something about $75 to $100 a year and then went up to $250, IIRC. I could be wrong, if anyone knows for sure, please let me know.
I could try if you can provide a link. I doubt the AI would bypass a paywall though.

Amazon sells a bot blocking service now too since so many people have learned they can skip all the ads by using the AI search that's on practically every search engine now.
 
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I could try if you can provide a link. I doubt the AI would bypass a paywall though.

Amazon sells a bot blocking service now too since so many people have learned they can skip all the ads by using the AI search that's on practically every search engine now.
 
That tool must have come up after the GMT360 but the AI picked up on repair procedures for later vehicles that does include that tool in the instructions. OTC has a clone of it instead of the Spent-Moore version.

 
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