Aftermarket coil packs

DIYguy

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I had to replace 2 coil packs in the last 6 months, 3000miles ago #1 and #3 (today) Odometer is at 159k now.
I installed spares that I had gotten from a junkyard years ago but I have none left.

Since they both died so close together, I am wondering if I’m on borrowed time with the rest. And I’m thinking about just replacing them all proactively.

Does anyone have experience with either Wells or Walker coil packs?

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Mostly... Only Genuine OEM ACDelco Products will reliably do the Trick. However... This Reply comes from The DuckDuckGo AI and is neither an empirical, nor hands on technical experience being reported by this writer, so take this information with a Large Grain of Salt as it also apparently comes as some "finger-pointing" from a competitor in the auto parts after market selling such COPs:

"Wells coil packs are often criticized for their poor quality and reliability, with many users reporting issues like misfires and short lifespans. In contrast, Walker products, particularly their Coil-On-Plug boots, are designed to meet or exceed OEM standards and are generally considered more reliable."

walkerproducts.com acurazine.com
 
I'm currently on some Amazon Chinese Alphabet name knockoffs (2nd gen, you have the 1st gen) and so far have been fine in the year since. I replaced them thinking it was the coils misfiring, turned out it was knockoff ACDelco plugs. If you're due to replacing them, you should do this at the same time. Make sure they are genuine ACDelco 41-103 plugs. This engine only likes these plugs.
 
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Since they both died so close together, I am wondering if I’m on borrowed time with the rest. And I’m thinking about just replacing them all proactively.


I see coils being replaced by many. I look at it like this... If I have a tooth go bad I surely am not going to replace them all just because they are all the same age.

I have 294 thousand miles on my 2002 4.2. 4 coils are original, 2 have been replaced. Personally, given the overall decline in quality of available parts I am more inclined to trust 20 year old originals.
 
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I see coils being replaced by many. I look at it like this... If I have a tooth go bad I surely am not going to replace them all just because they are all the same age.

I have 294 thousand miles on my 2002 4.2. 4 coils are original, 2 have been replaced. Personally, given the overall decline in quality of available parts I am more inclined to trust 20 year old originals.
Replacing teeth is way different than ignition coils. Certain teeth wear faster than others. You do not replace your own teeth, a dentist does it. Ignition coils have the same wear on them from day one. Gaining access to coils also puts wear and tear on other removed components.
My girl's 2002 TrailBlazer has the same years as yours but only has 77k miles on it and it has worn out 2 coils. When I did the 2nd coil, I did all of them with Genuine GM coils. When my girl starts it and pulls away, I am not worried about the coils giving her a problem.
 
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And in keeping with @TJBaker57 's clever analogy...it will depend upon whether you check the Misfire Counts and either can Dial In on ONE Particular Coil Over Plug...(P0301- P0306)... or conversely, have a Raft of Random Misfires (P0300) based upon Asymmetric Misfire Counts as -=Real Data=- to consider before purchasing all six COPs...versus a Data-Driven R&R that would justify paying more for a single OEM Quality ACDelco Coil Over Plug. The better the analysis of the historical record is... the less the impact will be upon your wallet--> $ vs. $$$$$$

An important consideration would be a check of your EFIs to isolate a *Poor Performer* as per THIS Video from "The Scanner Danner Brothers" Paul and James Scanner worth watching and understanding:


Totally Agree with @Mooseman 's assessment with either having Off Brand or Incorrect Spark Plugs or if you discover Carbon Traces... (Look For Carbon Tracks on the OUTSIDE of the Porcelain Insulator(s) and-or on the INSIDE of the Insulator Rubber Boots for signs that the Spark Line is Firing OUTSIDE of the Cylinders.

This will show up on an Oscilloscope Wave Form too for a Failed Coil On Plug caused by FUEL STARVATION...or Un-Controlled AIR Supply) via HIGH SECONDARY WAVE FORM OSCILLATIONS feeding back inside of the Primary Coil ...and Destroying IT.

"COP FAILURES ...CAN BE CAUSED BY A FAILING FUEL PUMP AND POORLY FUNCTIONING OR CLOGGED EFI!s..." --=mrrsm=--


PS...

"What Am I LOOKING For in the COP Known Bad Wave Form?"

If you look at this Two Channel Ignition Wave Form Capture... Focus on the -=EXCESSIVE OSCILLATIONS=- occurring in the Tail End of the Yellow Secondary Wave Form Trace... There should ONLY be 3 to 5 Oscillations in that line (See the Red Arrows,,,?) showing that the Residual High Voltage is DISSIPATING:

Known GOOD COP Secondary Wave Form:

Secondary_scope_PATTERN.JPG

Whenever an issue with a FAILED GROUND to the Primary Coil Side of the COP occurs, these Two Comparison Wave Forms describe what happens when an Internally Shorted Coil in the Primary happens (Red is PRIMARY and Blue is SECONDARY). All Credit to ScannDanner.com:

SCANNERDANNERONCOILISSUES.jpg

Whenever there is NO PLACE TO GO for this High Electrical Power to Dissipate.. .it will HAMMER its way back inside the Primary Coil (Green Trace) and OVER-HEAT THE INNARDS and eventually Destroy the COP! Excessive In-Cylinder LEAN Fuel to AIR Conditions can cause this event to occur:

COILOVERPLUGPROBLEM1.jpg
COILOVERPLUGPROBLEM2..jpg


One Last Precautionary Mention here...

You probably will not have a High End Snap-On Verus or similar Scan Tool with a Built In 4 Channel Oscilloscope...so *IF* you wind up using an Inexpensive Hantek Model# 1008C or the PICO-Scope Model# 2204 versions with your Laptop Computer and their FREE Auto Diagnostic Software...PLEASE ...Remember to attach a Hantek 20:1 Voltage Attenuator to EACH of your Scope BNC Connectors ahead of your Two Probe Leads... or the High KV in the COPs Secondary and the EFIs will Destroy your Scope!


612HheR1tmL._SL1500_.jpg617UuXTK6IL._SL1500_.jpg71V5np3IozL._SL1500_.jpg71yEpbkIf7L._SX522_.jpg
 
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Holy f*#$! At that price though, I once bought a whole 4.2! (in 2011) That's $600USD in coils!
He has an 05 Ascender 4.2
With that reasoning, bear in mind that the suggested GM MSRP is $255.98 and can be bought at GM Parts Direct for $142.07 and therefore the RA price of $98.79 each is very reasonable for Genuine GM parts quality.

OR....lets move to the other end of the spectrum and get the cheap Walker brand of $38.79 or get really crazy and pay in pennies for SKP at $17.44 each, both of these at RA.

Using an average amount of time for spark plugs longevity of between 75k to 100k miles, and them being changed, all at the same time, even if having no misfire problems. It only makes sense that, just like plug wires being all done as a set even though can be done one at a time, the ignition coils should be done as a set. $600 is cheap compared to walk in price at a dealer or at an auto parts store that does sell Genuine GM.

But, I am of the feeling that quality parts, planned on in advance and doing maintenance with a known cost because of the maintenance planning, is being way ahead of the game. 40+ years in the shops taught me that.

Or....buy a BIKE!
 
Here’s a bit more context. I have an 05 Isuzu Ascender 4.2L.

July 2025 I had a short trip and then en route home in the last mile some misfires. Code P301. I changed the plug 1 with AC delco 41-103 (from autozone). Still misfired. Swapped coil pack 2 into #1 and put a junkyard CP into #2 and the problem cleared.

Almost identical thing happened yesterday except with #3. Had P303, but I didn’t change the plug this time. I moved CP#2 to cyl3 and put my second Junkyard CP into #2. Misfires gone.

The older plugs in cyl2-6 have about 60k miles on them. When I took #1 spark plug out last time in July, I also took out 2 and 3 out to compare. They all looked the same and in decent shape but I just replaced #1 at the time anyway.
 
Well again. I would do it differently but it also depends on whether you will be keeping the vehicle. I know the 2002 with 77k miles on the clock, will be here for quite a while. My girl's TB but I like to drive it too. It all works and is very dependable.
 
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